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Here's Another One I Am Working On Building...


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RB-Tele. More contouring is in the works and still TBD. It won't be just a slab of wood... :)

RB_Tele1s.jpgRB_Tele2s.jpgRB_Tele3s.jpgRB_Tele4s.jpgRB_Tele5s.jpg

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All of my guitars have it in one form or another... Thanks for acknowledging it!

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GFS... I found a possible problem with the bridge assembly though. It looks like the bridge posts were made 1/2" too close to the neck side of the bridge plate for a 25.5" scale neck. I will let you know what I find out from GFS...

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...as soon as I can convince John at GFS that if I use this bridgeplate with the bridge locating posts in the wrong place that the guitar will not be able to intonate because the posts are located 1/2" too far forward... He responded back originally that I can adjust the bridge and each saddle on their slots to achieve intonation like I don't know what I am doing, and I responded back with actual measurements showing clearly they cannot and he has not responded back yet. I am disappointed by this. I will keep you informed.

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Okay... I sent him another e-mail with pictures I took showing the issue I was describing and he acknowledged what I was describing was the case but as he does not manufacture them, the only thing he can do is take it back in return. I let him know that this is something he needs to address from a manufacturing standpoint, but that I will modify this one to be able to work on my own but I do appreciate his acknowledgement and offer to take it back. Now, I know what I need to do to make it work. I will just consider this one my test mule.

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Why didn't you place the bridge according to the scale instead of just slapping it at the end of the pickguard?Or did you buy the body with the bridge pup prerouted?

I just don't understand how it's the fault of the supplier if you built the body and placed the bridge?

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This is a test mule. I bought the standard Tele body pre-routed and drilled (for seeing how I can modify it to bring RockBeach ergonomics to it and to try out the GFS Trem system for a budget type of build) and the bridge assembly and the pickguard from GFS. The neck is a standard 25.5" scale 22-fret neck I had in stock. Absolutely no reason it shouldn't work. The saddle location for the GFS Tele roller bridge plate is clearly different from the standard hardtail GFS Tele saddle location adjustability range.

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All I'm reading is you've bought a pre fab body, thrown on a neck and you're blaming the bridge manufacturer that they don't match.

Have you considered the heel on the neck may be in a different position to where the heel would be on the tele's neck. This is the most likely cause

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Its not a problem with his neck placement. If it were a 21 fret neck, the new saddle location would be even further out of whack. A 24 fret neck might save the day, though. <_<

From what i'm reading, its a problem with adding the trem and roller bridge to that particular bridge plate, both made by ( well, sold by ) GFS.

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Standard Fender Tele.Notice the neck is 21 frets and it joins the body at the 17th fret

tele_1.jpg

Now look at yours...22 frets and joins the body at 16.Obvious.You need to be sure of these things before you start throwing blame at a supplier

RB_Tele5s.jpg

O- and not that i'm a fender buff ( wezV , where are yoo?? ) but that aint no standard tele bridge . Those are stratocaster saddles in that upper pic.......

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Standard Fender Tele.Notice the neck is 21 frets and it joins the body at the 17th fret

tele_1.jpg

Now look at yours...22 frets and joins the body at 16.Obvious.You need to be sure of these things before you start throwing blame at a supplier

RB_Tele5s.jpg

O- and not that i'm a fender buff ( wezV , where are yoo?? ) but that aint no standard tele bridge . Those are stratocaster saddles in that upper pic.......

Good to see I am not the only one who spotted that... Note how much farther away from the pickup the saddles are on the Strat saddled Tele than they are on the GFS roller assembly... It's about 1/2 inch which is exactly where I am saying the roller needs to be but can't get there because the posts are in the wrong place.

Edited by Boggs
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  • 5 months later...

  • Yes. I simply drilled and threaded new holes to relocate the bridge on the plate. I am working on many simultaneous projects along with working my regular job so this project has kind of dragged out, but the body is now sealed and ready for finishing. As you mentioned, these are ALL GFS supplied parts. I know some folks want to blame me for the mis-fits, but a lesser builder would have just put them together without checking first and found out too late. I always measure 3x first before cutting... ;)

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A few thoughts from me on this:

21, 22 or 24 frets wouldn't matter, as long as the scale length measures 25.5".

Couldn't it be so that this bridge is compensated for the necessary neck tilt (for Bigsby & clones) - 2.5 -- 3.0 degrees? I could be wrong here, but when I look at the pictures your neck doesn't seem to be tilted back (I know it's not mounted on the pictures, just laid out.)

But if that's the case, it would result in too short a scale length.

Just a guess from me.

//Erik

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Any more tilt-back would certainly not account for a 1/2" difference. The parts were apparently clearance priced for a reason... :D

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Yep, right... just a whim.

Guess you've got your answer for your initial question about that low priced GFS tremolo...

The original Bigsby is expensive, yes, but it also raises the value of the guitar - and I believe quality really matters here.

And they do look cool:

bigsbytele3.jpg

(the guitar of the late bluesman Johnny Smoketoomuch ;-) )

Well, I know the B16 pictured doesn't fit your design - or your concept.

But - IMHO - a guitar (hand-)made in the US can't compete with price to chinese low price products. Have a look at Sunsmiles product range: http://www.ssmii.com/guitars.asp

Their SST 01 Strat copy costs $37.50. Their double-necked SG knockoff costs $140 ... scary ...

Sunsmile may be the producer of Xaviere.

But, luckily, there are people who wants to pay for top quality. Those are your customers. They want the best pickups, the best hardware, maybe an original design (your unique selling point). I say - go for Bigsby.

FWIW

//Erik

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Thanks, Erik. Remember that the first one with the GFS hardware is really a test build. Nice cheap way to prototype if you will and it may even end up being a nice piece in spite of itself. You are right in that my market is more of a quality market. I can modify the design just slightly and probably use the B16 and I may end up trying one out. I have a B5 in stock as well... The nice thing is, people seem to really like what I have done with the bottom of the guitar to make it a bit more modernized while retaining the essence of a classic... Most manufacturers' guitars are recognizable by the headstock. Mine are more recognizable by the bottom of the guitar.

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Contouring with a rasp is tough on the hands, but it does get the job done... eventually...

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