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Veneer On A Strat Style Headstock W/locking Nut


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So I have a project parts guitar in the works...the Warmoth neck has a locking nut and 13 degree tilt I believe and is typical maple...I thought how snazzy it might be to put an exotic type wood veneer on it, and possibly laser cut the logo, though not so sure about that until I see the results...anyway, is this a doable thing? Doesn't seem it would require too much effort unless there is a curve where it meets the nut...maybe just clamp it firmly all over after gluing it on?....I like the looks of this bugina seen here: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2004978/35326/bubinga-waterfall-veneer-3-sq-ft-pack.aspx ...can you visualize the look (maple neck, ebony fretboard)...would it look nice?

Thanks!

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For a veneer you dont need a whole bunch of pressure. clamps are certainly not needed. Most "professional" veneers are actually done via vacuum bagging to keep pressure even across the whole veneer.

that said, veneering is not an overly difficult process, just take care of the curves, use an iron to steam it out if you need to. glue it on, and put a heavy bag of rice on some wax paper would be enough I would think.

As far as cosmetics, beauty is in the eye of the beholder unfortunately. And the laser cutting I would have no idea about, especially on a veneer.

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For a veneer you dont need a whole bunch of pressure. clamps are certainly not needed. Most "professional" veneers are actually done via vacuum bagging to keep pressure even across the whole veneer.

that said, veneering is not an overly difficult process, just take care of the curves, use an iron to steam it out if you need to. glue it on, and put a heavy bag of rice on some wax paper would be enough I would think.

As far as cosmetics, beauty is in the eye of the beholder unfortunately. And the laser cutting I would have no idea about, especially on a veneer.

when you say 'use an iron to steam it out'...what's the exact steps process?...here' s what I thought....cut a piece that's slightly larger than the headstock shape , glue on, (maybe this point is where you use the iron??), trim the remaining edge flush and then sand and maybe clear coat it....

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For a veneer you dont need a whole bunch of pressure. clamps are certainly not needed. Most "professional" veneers are actually done via vacuum bagging to keep pressure even across the whole veneer.

that said, veneering is not an overly difficult process, just take care of the curves, use an iron to steam it out if you need to. glue it on, and put a heavy bag of rice on some wax paper would be enough I would think.

As far as cosmetics, beauty is in the eye of the beholder unfortunately. And the laser cutting I would have no idea about, especially on a veneer.

when you say 'use an iron to steam it out'...what's the exact steps process?...here' s what I thought....cut a piece that's slightly larger than the headstock shape , glue on, (maybe this point is where you use the iron??), trim the remaining edge flush and then sand and maybe clear coat it....

thats pretty much the process.

some veneers are REALLY brittle, and I suspect bubinga would be one of those. You dont want to just bend it on. You mentioned a bend somewhere, so you can use your iron with a high steam setting to help bend it into position without breaking the wood into a million peices :)

You really do need to finish the veneer to protect it. Either a nice drying oil (easy/cheap) or a good clear coat (not so easy/cheap but better looking imo).

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For a veneer you dont need a whole bunch of pressure. clamps are certainly not needed. Most "professional" veneers are actually done via vacuum bagging to keep pressure even across the whole veneer.

that said, veneering is not an overly difficult process, just take care of the curves, use an iron to steam it out if you need to. glue it on, and put a heavy bag of rice on some wax paper would be enough I would think.

As far as cosmetics, beauty is in the eye of the beholder unfortunately. And the laser cutting I would have no idea about, especially on a veneer.

when you say 'use an iron to steam it out'...what's the exact steps process?...here' s what I thought....cut a piece that's slightly larger than the headstock shape , glue on, (maybe this point is where you use the iron??), trim the remaining edge flush and then sand and maybe clear coat it....

thats pretty much the process.

some veneers are REALLY brittle, and I suspect bubinga would be one of those. You dont want to just bend it on. You mentioned a bend somewhere, so you can use your iron with a high steam setting to help bend it into position without breaking the wood into a million peices :)

You really do need to finish the veneer to protect it. Either a nice drying oil (easy/cheap) or a good clear coat (not so easy/cheap but better looking imo).

gotcha...thanks for the info!

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Don't forget to sand the finish off the front of the headstock before you attempt to glue the veneer on ;)

? ...Don't know what you mean there...I don't think it comes with a finish? ...

Unless you ordered your warmoth neck without a finish, it will have a finish. You ARE welcome to use common sense to figure the rest out ;)

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it can be done on a curved headstock too - I did this a few weeks ago -

GEDC0071-1.jpg

I did this by soaking the veneer in a shallow tray of boiling water straight from the kettle. Leave it for about 5 mins to allow the hot water to penetrate through the veneer & then clamping it in position unglued & then leaving it to cool/dry out fully. Then when it was dry glue it in position using the same method as before.

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Don't forget to sand the finish off the front of the headstock before you attempt to glue the veneer on ;)

? ...Don't know what you mean there...I don't think it comes with a finish? ...

Unless you ordered your warmoth neck without a finish, it will have a finish. You ARE welcome to use common sense to figure the rest out ;)

ack...How did I misunderstand something you said that was so simple? lolol...I get it now,thanks!

Edited by guitz
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it can be done on a curved headstock too - I did this a few weeks ago -

GEDC0071-1.jpg

I did this by soaking the veneer in a shallow tray of boiling water straight from the kettle. Leave it for about 5 mins to allow the hot water to penetrate through the veneer & then clamping it in position unglued & then leaving it to cool/dry out fully. Then when it was dry glue it in position using the same method as before.

this is AWESOME!...have you thought about painting the veneer edge maybe black or white to make it pop out even more?...thanks for this info, I feel like I can make a go of it now...

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