Shelvock Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Hi all, anyone had any experience with an oil finish on spalt? Thinking tru oil or Danish oil might stabilise the wood enough to sand level and route the cavities while allowing for a natural finish. The piece I've got is fairly solid to begin with... or am I just being an idiot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 depends. generally i would say no but if its fairly solid it may be ok. i have done oiled spalted beech a few times but that is generally more stable with no real soft sections cut a bit of and see if it will do what you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Oil usually looks very nice on spalt. But if you've got places that are punky enough to need stabilizing, oil is not going to do it for you. Thin CA is best for that. You can still get a natural finish with oil after using CA to stabilize. If you piece if fairly solid and has no really soft patches, start sanding and see how it goes. If you get any crumbling or fibers pulling out, stop and stabilize. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelvock Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 I wasn't sure if oil would go over CA alright but if so I think that's the way I'll go, what about oil over epoxy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 When you use it for stabilizing, you soak first and then sand. The sanding will expose the wood fibers and they will soak up the oil. Any voids and gaps filled with CA or Epoxy will look like filled voids or gaps....which isn't necessarily a bad thing. They are fairly common with spalt and burls...if you've got them you've got them. Pores are fine-CA and epoxy have been used to pore fill for ages. You must sand down till the only exposed CA or epoxy is only in the pores. The oil will cover the filled pores fine. You can get it to stick to the filled voids but the gloss level will be different unless you really polish up the oil finish. TruOil polishes easily, Danish is more tricky. Like always try new processes on scrap first to master it. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelvock Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Brilliant, thanks fellas, I'll be sure to have a practice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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