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Cherry/maple Lp


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Thanks! I was lucky with the binding fix, as it could have ended as you say, replacing the piece or the whole thing. Looks fine now, and I got some experience which might come in handy later on.

I think I might change the procedure on the next one, spraying one clear coat first on the bare wood, so the paint looks more uniform. I used a plain maple piece, which I like BTW, but the one or two flames it has are too visible when dying the wood directly.

For the back, I'll stick with this, as this red color is very nice.

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Thanks Scott! I'm very curious about the end result, as I would like to improve my finishing skills on this, So far so good.

Oh yes, I love that place! I have some fruit trees, a veggy garden, my dogs, the shop, huge barbecue works under the roof, and a big kitchen type room with a nice couch :) and its about 300m from my house! The roof is actually grapes, and we get a lot f grapes on them starting from august.

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Not scratches exactly, but the lacquer was sinking weirdly in that area - I think it's some sort of shadows of thicknessing the headstock on my router. Not actual toolmarks, but some sort of change in the wood, perhaps a dull bit overheating or something... Anyway, sanded it all out yesterday... I should get a new wide bit and see if it happens again.

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It just looks like your finish didn't flow out properly...no big deal you can just level it with sandpaper after it is fully cured.It can happen for any number of reasons including spraying temps,amount of thinner,proper spraying methods,etc...

It is no easy feat to get your finish to flow out just right...just keep practicing and when you mess up just fix it with sandpaper

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I think this is the final coat! Weather was great today, so I had a nice half an hour in the sun with the spray gun. While that was curing, I was fiddling with the truss rod cover cookie cuter. I tried to route one cover, but the mdf base cracked off in half, pic tommorow, but now I know that I want a bigger base, and that the base should be hardwood or plywood. Also, material should have the holes countersunk in advance, and obviously, proper guitar screws should be used... The actual bit to be used will be 45deg one, not this flush cutter.

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