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Time for a new project!

Last year I have made some 5-6 body base blanks for LP's out of cherry, cut them out, and drilled some weight relief holes. Also, laminated a neck blank out of 3 cherry profiles I've cut out. The wood is not AAA, but I think I'll have lots of fun!

I would like to make an LP out of one or two of those, and the goal is to refine my finishing and detail skills, try out some jigs, and to use as much of the domestic woods as possible. I'll have to use an rosewood fingerboard, since I still haven't found a dark sort of wood domestically. I have a log of some sort of walnut that has a purplish black core, about 15cm diameter, but it's still drying, and I have to get it resawn, so that will wait.

Very plain local hard maple for the tops, almost no figure, but straight, quartersawn grain. For the headstock veneers I have some flooring to recycle that looks a lot like corina.

I don't plan to follow the dimensions all the way, but to use the mix of various LP features that I like. Shapes will be the usual tho, no changes there.

Here goes:

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I think most here agree with you 100%. I actually enjoy sanding.....er, ok--most of of it. Rough sanding is pretty much just work....except when you are using it to fine tune a neck join, or scoops in

Sorry to hear that man. Dogs are awesome. No truer example of unconditional love exists than that of one's dog. They just need to invent one that will live 50 years. SR

And yes, I tried to clean the shop a bit for the 2013

Have you tried Cherry and Maple together yet? My gut tells me it'll be a pretty bright sounding guitar. I have 2 chambered electrics, one with maple and black walnut, one with cherry and black walnut. The cherry one is much more treble-y. Shimmery ,even. :) ( i combated it by adding 250k pots to the humbuckers, thereby squashing some of the higher frequencies)

I like the relief holes. You could get even more weight out by routing them into a big void,not like you don't know that!

P.s., I dyed a maple fretboard black once. It looked just like ebony. Fuel for thought.

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No, I haven't tried this combo yet, so I'm pretty curious how will it sound. I'm hoping the holes will dampen some of the brightness off, and I'll definitely use your advice with 250k pots. Since I'll probably make a few of these, there'll be a lot of opportunity for experimenting - I plan to use different pickups in all of them, regular hums, mini hums, P90s (I just love them), and I would really like to try out those P90-shaped hums GFS carrries.

I thought to connect the holes, but decided it would change the sound too much. I might try that on one of the others.

Dying a maple fboard sounds good, could you tell me how does the dye hold up, does it leave color on the fingers? It would be great if you could describe your procedure and the dye used?

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well, far be it from me to stick with convention, I used black masons dye ( I'm a mason by trade ). Its powdered, available at the hardware store and dirt cheap. I just take a small tub, like an old butter tub, add a dash of dye, then dip a folded, wet rag into the powder, then wipe onto the maple. Wear gloves, as this stuff stains everything it touches. after wiping it on and rubbing it in good, you can clear it as normal. Once cleared, no staining of the fingers. Its holding up fine so far- three years give or take, but I really don't play it as often as I should. and for the pots, try 500k first. If its too brite, the 250k swap is just a cheap fix. :)

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I looked up the texas ebony, and it looks great! But wikipedia says it's not found in my part of the world... I'll take a pic of my log tommorow, perhaps someone will recognise it.

Our Souls, thanks! What I have is the powdered black pigment for oil painting that I've used in the bass build, mixed with epoxy to inlay my logo. I might try to mix the powder with some mineral thinner, and soak the blank maple fingerboards to have it penetrate the wood. I would like it not to get lighter in colour with wear, but I'll test it on scrap and resaw to see how deep it goes.

Cleaned the neck blank a bit...

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Edited by gpcustomguitars
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The problem with Texas Ebony is that the trees are so small.

I wasn't aware of that. The few I've been around were plenty large, but they may have been exceptional. I took seeds from one of them a dozen or so years ago and planted some to make bonsais out of. I still have one. I have seen timber available here in Houston, but David is right at least in that those pieces were small. Big enough for fret boards though. There are some historical sites down in the Rio Grande valley that has old stockade remnants made from Texas ebony. It's apparently pretty rot resistant.

SR

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Had a few hours in the shop today, and I've shaped the tenon on the router, made the headstock plate, sanded back the headstock thickness for 2mm ( headstock plate thickness), routed the back of the headstock, and setup everything for routing the truss rod channel. I want to try to use the straight rod as in the old LP's, but chickened out, this one gets a hot rod.

The bearing for 2mm binding thickness died on my Stew-Mac cutter, so I swapped the bearings on some router bits and came up with the 1.8mm one, we'll see how that works. Since it's taller than the Stew-Mac one, I won't have to do the cutaway area in steps.

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Some more pics! Cut out the truss rod channel, and rough cut access hole in the headstock veneer. I'll inlay the diamond and my symbol logo as on the "bass for a friend", probably plastic. I did that before and I liked the end result.

I'm preparing to route the body top angles, check the tenon fit against the body and glue the neck parts together.

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Now comes the more interesting stuff! Planed the neck angle of 4 deg to the top using the jig I made the other day, cleaned the neck blank some more, tapered the headstock thickness slightly and made the correct headstock sides transition.

I'm about to make the other jig, for the pup plane angle, and hopefully plane it later today. Can't wait for the carving stage!!!

Still don't know if I want the diamond or not...?

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Edited by gpcustomguitars
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Routed the tenon pocket, fitted the tenon, and sawed off the neck taper. I've also managed to drill the hole for the jack. I should bind it now, and carve the top. Not to jinx it, but this went on very quick and I'm having a lot of fun! Scraped a spoonful of binding and poured it into some acetone yesterday, I've used pure acetone before, and would like to see the difference now.

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Blisters!!! :)

I've bound the body, and carved a big portion this morning. Just Ibex 10mm for now, scraping etc later today or tommorow. Perhaps stoping was a mistake, as starting again in a few hours will probably be more painfull ... I've made some templates for the top carve profiles to check against in a few places, they're nice help.

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My hands hurt, but it's done! I should perhaps get a bigger plane, this small one works really great, but the blisters are a problem...and I use gloves and wrap my fingers in masking tape before work!

Scraped the top of the binding flush with the top, and sanded the top and the back with the orbital, still got sides to do. Then its time for the humbucker routs.

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Glued on the fretboard, and routed the pup cavities, 26mm neck, 28mm bridge. My template worked OK, but one of the screws unglued a tiny bit of the treble side binding, so I had to reglue it. No harm done, will have to move the offending screw hole on the template... Frets are probably next, after the sanding of the body sides.

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