boeba Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 Hi guys, allow me to introduce myself. 25 y old, i'm from Belgium, Bruges. As a day job i make 3D for print and animation. (I don't know if it's allowed to paste this link but here it goes) http://umbracg.com/ This is the work of me and 2 friends, we started a business 2 years ago. I have been playing a long time with the idea to build my own guitar. After reading alot of tutorials and books about the subject i decided to jump right in. First thing to do was to make my building plan and design of the guitar. (Pics will follow as soon as possible.) So i'm looking forward to your help. Greetings, Boeba Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeba Posted January 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 So here's the design. This is just a photoshop-design. This is not with the correct dimensions or position of the pickup/tremelo.( I just wanted to see what it would look like.) Next image is the first draft of my template/plan. After all the reading and stuff i think i understand what the scale length is, and i decided to go with a 24.75. (in Belgium it comes down to 629 mm.) The next image will be a close-up of the floyd-rose bridge, i'm having difficulties locating the right position of the string-contact point . I hope the image will explain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeba Posted January 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 This is the problem. I know that you measure the scale length bij looking where the string meets the contact point/saddle of the tremelo. But i'm not quite sure where this point is at this picture below. So i made some different versions so you guys could tell me where the correct position of the bridge needs to be. I made 4 versions......A-B-C-D, but please say if it has to be a position that isn't on the picture. Thanks in advance. http://i48.tinypic.com/97itz9.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 First. Don't Panic! Next use this... http://www.stewmac.c...i-fretcalc.html it will tell you where to position things after you calculate the scale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 I always position the high E saddle contact point right on the scale length. Since you know everything else is going to be longer than the scale length when you intonate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 Welcome to the board Boeba! Keep us in the loop on your build and we'll help out with what we can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeba Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 Hi guys, Thanks for the support. So i made a new image, again concerning the floyd-rose. http://i50.tinypic.com/wgri3o.jpg I just need to know wich point is the correct contact point.....1 or 2? I looked at my own Jackson and i'm having doubts between point 1 or 2. (i hope you don't mind i'm asking a lot of questions, i just want to be exactly sure.) Thanks in advance, Boeba Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 Definitely "1". To clarify positioning (although previously described): Each of the saddles can be moved backwards and forwards to allow for intonation of each string. The bridge should be positioned so that the "end" of the scale length coincides with the position where the saddle's break point is at their furthest forward point (left in the picture above). Intonation adjustment compensates by *lengthening* a string slightly. Primarily this counteracts the deflection and stretching that happens when we fret the string out of its relaxed straight state. Fretting sharpens a string's pitch marginally therefore intonation needs to flatten it to compensate. You can see from this that you would never really need to do the opposite, so designing the bridge position in with the maximum range of compensation makes more sense. Does this clarify? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 Yup...one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeba Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 thanks guys, appreciate it that you give such quick reply/response. This is going to be really helpfull during the build. Boeba. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeba Posted January 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 Back with another update. http://i48.tinypic.com/1zzkeb5.jpg I was wondering if it's a problem that the gap between the bridge and the end of the body is only 100mm. Could it be that this is dangerous if i start routing because the gap is so small? Boeba Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 Some jacksons have it even closer to the edge. It should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 Definitely fine. If you consider that the Ibanez Voyager was set right at the back in a cutout the only danger is the wood blowing out if you try to cut too much at once. Structurally there isn't even a need for that small piece of wood to be at the back other than to prevent you breaking all the strings on a mad trem pull up.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supplebanana Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 100mm?? Thats 10cm or ~4" - doesn't look like that on your drawing(??) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 15, 2013 Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 Yep. Big guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeba Posted January 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 Damn, i mean 10 mm = 1cm= 0.4 inches Thanks for noticing, you never know it really was 100 mm, that would be a big mistake and a big guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unrealize Posted January 15, 2013 Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 Looking forward to checking this one out. Love the body shape, not too keen on the headstock, but that's just my personal preference.. Good luck with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeba Posted January 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2013 Thanks Unrealize, I took another look at the headstock because i felt it wasn't exactly what i wanted. So i did some adjustments, and i like it alot more than before. Next is an image cut up to the size of 7x A4- pages. I also added some allignment markers to stitch the pages together once they are printed. http://i49.tinypic.com/172sdv.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeba Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 (edited) Nothing special, just a pic of the plan cutout. Next i will transfer this to a piece of wood(template) http://i45.tinypic.com/2ibntco.jpg http://i45.tinypic.com/2ibntco.jpg Edited January 20, 2013 by boeba Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Looks good. I never bother printing out the neck other than the headstock and the body join as those parts are calculated and often in a different plane to the body if you have a neck angle and headstock angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unrealize Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Big improvement on the headstock in my book! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeba Posted January 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 Currently i'm busy transfering the plan to a piece of plywood. I was only wondering if the design of my headstock is safe, especially the placement of the Tuning pegs. Aren't they to close to each other?(there's a pic of the plan on previous page) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boeba Posted January 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Today i made the template. It still has to be finished but it's a start. http://i50.tinypic.com/30tqx35.jpg I didn't cut the headstock because i think there's not enough place for the tuning pegs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maull Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Build a physical mock up of the headstock and install the tuners. See how they line up and if you have the space required. Your measurements alone should tell you if you have enough space but sometimes it can be reassuring to see it first hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pan_kara Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 I second that. An MDF headstock template that you can drill the tuner holes in and do a mock-up with the tuners themselves is a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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