farren Posted February 6, 2013 Report Posted February 6, 2013 (edited) I'm fixing up my '86/87 American Kramer Baretta and am currently working on the neck. It's a maple neck that had significant dings in it, many running far too deep for me to consider sanding down (and I'd already steamed out as many of the dents as possible). I took care of the dents with CA (superglue) fills, sanded them down flush and continued to sand the whole neck up to 2000 grit. Now I'm in the finishing stage and am on coat two of what will probably be ten coats of Lombardi's 100% tung oil. I realize pure tung oil will take longer to dry than say Minwax's tung oil that has other compounds in it, and that's no problem, but I'm a little concerned about oil adhering to the CA for obvious reasons. I'd hate to have my seemingly perfectly-filled dents no longer flush with the finish after I've applied all ten layers of oil. It's obvious that CA won't be as porous (or porous at all) as maple or any other wood, but am I going to run into a problem here? The oil eventually dries over (or seeps into the wood surrounding) the CA, but it takes longer than the rest of the neck to dry. I don't care if the CA spots aren't quite as dark as the rest of the neck, but what I do care about is feel. Prior to the tung oil, the fills felt just as smooth as the rest of the neck. Do I have any reason to be concerned about this, or will the fills feel as smooth as the rest of the neck when I'm done? For what it's worth, after two coats, the CA spots are still flush--to the touch at least. Thanks for reading! This site has helped me out countless times. Edited February 6, 2013 by farren Quote
WezV Posted February 6, 2013 Report Posted February 6, 2013 they should stay pretty flush for now but you will notice them over time. it will stop all absorption of the oil in that area and will always end up a bit shinier than the surrounding wood. did you try steaming out the dents first. a dent is compressed wood and can be uncompressed by applying a wet cloth to it and a bit of heat from a soldering iron. this would reduce the amount you have to fill drastically. the problem you may have is that the compressed wood in the dent may want to uncompress itself over time/different humidity conditions anyway - and then it will push the CA upwards. i wouldnt worry about any of this if you dont care about it looking perfect - just be prepared to knock the ca down a bit in a few years when you will probably want to re-oil the neck anyway Quote
Mender Posted February 6, 2013 Report Posted February 6, 2013 ...did you try steaming out the dents first.... He said he did in his post Quote
WezV Posted February 6, 2013 Report Posted February 6, 2013 ...did you try steaming out the dents first.... He said he did in his post you mean i am supposed to read everything people write Quote
Mender Posted February 6, 2013 Report Posted February 6, 2013 ...did you try steaming out the dents first.... He said he did in his post you mean i am supposed to read everything people write Yes, and also you should read back through every post they've ever made in case there is something in there that is relevant to the current post Quote
Mender Posted February 6, 2013 Report Posted February 6, 2013 I think he edited it after my post Either that, or he edited it nearly 12 hours before your post EDIT: Or maybe I need to go away and learn to tell the time Quote
farren Posted February 6, 2013 Author Report Posted February 6, 2013 I edited it 3 minutes after my initial post, so Mender is correct. Thanks guys... I'm not too worried about it now. For future reference, is there any way I could have handled this better? Fill the dents with something else? I realize a cut tung oil like Minwax would have hardened over the CA, but I'd rather fill with something different rather than not use my nice pure oil... Quote
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