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How To Do A Charcoal Burst Like Prs


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Hello all,

I am wanting to do a charcoal burst quilted maple top like PRS does. I am wanting to know the best method to do this. The ones I like the most are the ones where the non black parts are almost white to every very light grey. It is like the wood was bleached prior to putting the black dye on it then sanded back and revealing the very light maple. I do not want to see the amber maple after sanding the black back My questions are:

1. Is this just a dye black and sand back method where you just sand the middle area and keep the edge dark for the burst effect?

2. Or....is this a diluted black dye put on, then sand back the whole top, then spray a very dark black edge burst.

3. Or....same as 2 but instead of spraying the dye on the wood you would seal the diluted black, then spray a clear with black dye in it as a toner.

4. Or.....bleach it first to take all the amber or yellow out of the maple and proceed as above by strong black and sand till I like it.

Anyway again I like the jobs where there is contrast between dark patches and very light patches only using black.......very minimal amber fron the natural maple showing....with Crome hardware and white binding.....looks like a sharp looking tuxedo.

Thanks for any info.

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It's pretty simple, you pretty much nailed it with option #2.

Step 1-stain black and let it sit for a few hours to be really dry or leave it overnight.

Step 2- sand the whole top back as far as you like. The more you sand, the lighter the charcoal color becomes.(the more the "white" maple shows through)

Step 3--seal the guitar and spray a few coats of clear. Come back the next day and sand the finish flat.

Step 4-Spray the black burst edge with a touch up/color gun and clearcoat over.

*You can also spray the burst with stain before any finish is applied, it's personal preferance.

Here is a charcoal guitar I did without a burst edge. I stained it black, then sanded it back the next day until I was happy with the color.

549171_10151463635841138_971612904_n.jpg

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the research i have done shows that a water based clear coat will not discolor or amber your finished product where an oil based clear coat will. If anyone has anything better to offer, please let me know.

I don't know..I don't approach it that way.

I use finishes that won't yellow...some of these include polyurethane and catalytic varnish...but I have no idea if they are oil or water based.

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the research i have done shows that a water based clear coat will not discolor or amber your finished product where an oil based clear coat will. If anyone has anything better to offer, please let me know.

Be careful because you can't generelize that that. For example, EM6000 does age over time.

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Pretty much. That is a really tight tidy edge burst on the PRS. Masterful.

Definitely!

did you scrape/router that edge clean? I find it hard to get a clean edge with dyes.

I seal the faux binding area before staining.

Do you use water based dyes? With dyes, the color always bleeds into the sealed surrounding area for me.

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