argytar Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 I got a 5A flame maple top that looks amazing. I was wondering... a. would you use it as a drop top say on a thinline tele style build or b.would you carve it leaving a 2mm faux binding line??? (maybe use some cream plastic binding) Thanks for the help guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argytar Posted May 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 (edited) poll Edited May 21, 2013 by argytar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 Drop top/Too thin for a good carve IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maikkeli Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Whatever you do I would prefer not to use plastic binding, use a flashy wood. Putting plastic is like steel wheels under your Corvette. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Lots of examples floating around where builders have carved a top where the carve goes all the way through to the body, either by design (after a particular look) or necessity (top was too thin to retain a binding edge). No reason you couldn't carve it if that's the look you want, or even just stick with a shallow carve. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/47054-guitar-of-the-month-for-february/?p=519875 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/46381-guitar-of-the-month-for-may/?p=506608 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/46055-guitar-of-the-month-for-february/?p=500930 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/45572-guitar-of-the-month-for-september/?p=493138 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/45271-guitar-of-the-month-for-june/?p=488693 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argytar Posted May 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 Guy thanks a mil! That was quite helpful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 22, 2013 Report Share Posted May 22, 2013 1cm allows for a bit of contouring but not much, as Wes says. Binding would allow you to fake a thicker top if done cleverly using a combination of both a drop top and a carve. The binding would merely hide most of where the Maple is bent to imply an illusion of depth. Go with your level of experience and ability I guess. A drop top can look just as stunning as a carve when done well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 I'd carve it......I'd carve most anything though, to be honest. Smooth contours are more interesting than flat surfaces to me, but that's just me. RestorationAD carve nearly all of his tops and his tops are rarely over 3/8" thick, usually only 1/4". SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 I think it depends on the design and the wood choice, my 7 string top was only 7 mm thick, although I would love to have 3/4 mm more. Voted for carved! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 If you route your binding channel first you could see how much top material you have before going through it. You could leave the edge at 1mm thick and hide it with binding I would think and that would give you enough for a nice contour. Nothing PRS-like but it can still look great. *Sorry, I think I just repeated what's already been said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 It looks like you have plenty of options. I personally vote for a drop top. If you decide to carve a 1 cm thick piece, it will get very thin at the edges. Be careful when sanding that you don't sand through the top at the edges. You probably wouldn't ever to that, but I did when I got a little ham handed. That's how my intended finish turned quickly from amber to amber with a dark tobacco burst. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Perhaps this is a cross between both ideas - bend it across a large radius. Radius the body to about 2'-3' (600mm-900mm) and bend the Maple over that. You then have the full 1cm of depth with which to do any contouring or even a more aggressive bend for a drop top. This is getting to the territory where you need to consider the application of heat however I have seen Drak bend wood without it before. Figured woods are more liable to cracking if you do this without heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Perhaps this is a cross between both ideas - bend it across a large radius. Radius the body to about 2'-3' (600mm-900mm) and bend the Maple over that. You then have the full 1cm of depth with which to do any contouring or even a more aggressive bend for a drop top. I love the sound of that. My first thought was this would look great on a body with a big bottom, if you know what I mean. I'll file this idea for later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 By all means :-) I guess I have to qualify my thinking behind it though. The OP asked whether or not we would carve a 1cm thick top. On the basis that I don't like yes/no answers at the best of times (try me) I automatically started thinking of ideas on how to get the most mileage out of that piece. Same as how a recarve/recurve accentuates the edges of a PRS or vintage LP contour, adding an overall curve to the entire piece or even bookmatching at an angles of a couple of degrees can turn an otherwise flat top into a spectacular piece. Kind of like how (Mark Wood?) makes his electric flying V violins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argytar Posted July 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 (edited) Hello again and thanks for the great ideas!! The following is the guitar body and 5A top in question! Thing is , the top is quite thick now.. I was wondering... Should I bring it down to 7 mm or maybe get a carve at an edge of say 3mm and use 6mm binding going into the mahogany (3mm) at the edge?? (Or should I leave it like it is? Top thickness is 10mm, overall thickness is 45 mm , a usual tele is at about 44 as all of you know) Here's a pic showing the edge Thanks for any insights!! Edited July 23, 2013 by argytar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argytar Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 (edited) I eventually went another way. I wanted to make a Gretsch-Tele hybrid so I planned the top to 6mm , re-routed for TV jones and installed black/white binding. I ll make a bolt on neck with an ebony fretboard and neoclassical inlays and use a rocking bar bridge. I also rounded the body a bit, and broadened the f-holes so that a pot can fit through. Here are some pics, the project is still under construction. Still in the works but I think I like how it' coming about! I 'll paint it orange (you guessed it!) Maybe it will look something like this, only with nickel hardware and a bound fretboard with neo-classical inlays... Edited November 14, 2013 by argytar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluesman62 Posted November 29, 2013 Report Share Posted November 29, 2013 I would go with the binding, don't think I would want to mess with the beauty of that wood. Maybe do a little MOP inlay on it in a spot or two just to spice it up a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argytar Posted November 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Some of the progress of the project.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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