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Project: One For Me


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I'll add a drop of superglue to each end of the fret after I've tapped it in, but I do it so I can add wood dust so the extra depth between the tennon and the fretboard isn't as noticable... not to hold the fret in... This is just me, but I've never been handed a guitar that had a fret fall out because it wasn't superglued in.

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PRS doesnt use SS frets

You're right memory failed me, he didn't mention ss fretwire, what he mentions is that he buys the hardest fretwire he can get. But, the bullsh*** is there:

So you guys know I am not a fan of PRS or his silliness but I can give you a guess into what he means about "hardest fretwire he can"

Today it is pretty easy to get 18% Nickel Silver, Stainless Steel, or Jescar's proprietary Gold Evo Alloy.

Back in the 70s and 80s when PRS was building his name fretwire was inconsistent to say the least. I would be willing to bet most budget guitar makers didn't even know the percentage of Nickel Silver in the fretwire they used. The other mixture of metals in the alloy and manufacturing process affect the hardness. For example bad 12% Nickel Silver wire is soft, wears fast, and doesn't hold a polish (it will look dull in a few weeks). However good 18% NS is hard, wears really well, and holds a polish pretty well (at least for several string changes). Buffed correctly 18% feels as slick as SS. I remember my boss specifically only ordering Dunlop fret wire in the 80s and early 90s because it was the hardest and most consistent wire available to shops.

In general I would say Jescar makes the hardest 18% NS wire with Dunlop running right there neck and neck.

Anyway doesn't mean PRS isn't old and looney. Just to give you some perspective why old guys are concerned about the Nickel Silver content in their wire.

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I'll add a drop of superglue to each end of the fret after I've tapped it in, but I do it so I can add wood dust so the extra depth between the tennon and the fretboard isn't as noticable... not to hold the fret in... This is just me, but I've never been handed a guitar that had a fret fall out because it wasn't superglued in.

Glue under the frets to fill the voids helps with tone. Gibson used fish glue in the old days.

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Last thing... I wanted to add that when Martin switched from harder 30% Nickel Silver to softer 18% Nickel Silver because the manufacturer, Horton – Angell of North Attleboro Massachusetts advised that the much harder 30% compound would quickly wear out the extrusion tooling, and incur additional production expense

Ironic.

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Last thing... I wanted to add that when Martin switched from harder 30% Nickel Silver to softer 18% Nickel Silver because the manufacturer, Horton – Angell of North Attleboro Massachusetts advised that the much harder 30% compound would quickly wear out the extrusion tooling, and incur additional production expense

Ironic.

So you are saying the higher the nickel silver content, the harder the fret? That seems counter-intuitive to me........even after reading that there is no actual silver involved. I still would have (erroneously) assumed the the balance of the alloys would have been harder than NS.

I wonder what the balance of those alloys are?

Sorry JJ, it appears this thread has been well and truly highjacked. Carry on, we still want to see your guitar being built. :)

SR

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I'll add a drop of superglue to each end of the fret after I've tapped it in, but I do it so I can add wood dust so the extra depth between the tennon and the fretboard isn't as noticable... not to hold the fret in... This is just me, but I've never been handed a guitar that had a fret fall out because it wasn't superglued in.

Glue under the frets to fill the voids helps with tone. Gibson used fish glue in the old days.

I'm going to pretend they're mini sound chambers that also help with tone :P

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