MzI Posted September 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Its either 40 or 60 or maybe 80 on the thickness sander, don't recall. I have a stack of cherry that was cut down from a friend's house and I had it rough cut. Not the greatest but free and perfect for paint grade/ test models. There was one or two small knots in the top, not loose but the epoxy helps keep them solid as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 I have 60 grit on my smaller drum sander and 80 grit on my big drum sander. That's fine for perfect joins. The op is right. If spraying, the paint will "shrink" into anything that it can. So I'd agree, even if doing a clear coat only I'd still use a grain fill/sealer and get the thing coated before spraying the clears or colors. Yes, for joins... but not for the top after its been glued. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Anything coarser than 80 grit can be counterproductive. I go to 120 grit off the bat, but I prefer more light passes. The surface the becomes my temple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Anything coarser than 80 grit can be counterproductive. I go to 120 grit off the bat, but I prefer more light passes. The surface the becomes my temple. that is exactly what i am saying. That is one of the best parts about a drum sander! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted December 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2013 Haven't really touched the Ninja V. More focused on work and getting the fire burst strat done. Strat is mostly buffed out missed one spot on the front that I have to go back and hit again. Started applying oill to the neck as well. Going to start pre assembly this weekend once I get the spot buffed out. I used EM6000 for this one. First time using the product, overall it came out decent considering not one coat of finished laid down flat from the gun. Wet sanding was very easy as was buffing. I did not get any blueing as I only sprayed two coats a day as per recommendations. This one did sit for 9 months + and was good and hard when I started sanding. I will be using this finish on another guitar in the future, just need to get my spray set up straightened out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted February 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Finally finished one. Took a lot longer than I planned on. On to the next one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Back to the Ninja V. All fretted, neck roughed in, and glued in place. Some epoxy filler for the headstock too. I will say, Bloodwood is an extremely hard wood to shape. Even my razor sharp Framing chisel is having a tough time with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Was at the Northeast Woodworking show today and picked up two new pieces of wood. Bocote fretboard blank and a niece piece of Crotch walnut for one of my strat bodies. The walnut is only 1/2" thick or so but for $19 it will make a nice book matched drop top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted October 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 Finally finished the Ninja V. Now it gets to hang on the wall and never get played again. I'm back onto the Ash and walnut super strat. The neck blank is just about done at this point. Need to glue the headstock on tomorrow night. I am going to try and bend the drop top over the arm contour on the front of the the guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted October 30, 2014 Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 There has got to be a cool story behind that Ninja. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted October 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 VIP meet and greet tickets and I got to go to sound check as well. Incredible show. Michael actually asked if the guitar was for him. I was second row for the show and ended up catching the last pick he used that night so that will stay with the guitar as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted November 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 The neck blank is just about set. Still have to glue the face plate on the headstock and then route for the truss rod. Also did some photoshoping to see how the top will look once book matched. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 There are several demonic faces in that bookmatch. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilsolomon Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 I used a bloodwood fretboard on my last guitar, has a nice feel and its something different so using it here again. I am not big on inlay, usually go for more over the top wood but as this is more of a tribute guitar versus my usual one offs, I thought I'd throw something small in. Arch Enemy logo All routed Hi, What did you use for a filler within the inlayed cavity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Im curious to why you routed out the middle by hand instead of using a drill bit to get a perfect circle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted November 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 Inlay is black epoxy. Not sure why I did it that way other than I had the dremel in my hand. I'll use a bit next time. Seems like a good number of my splated and crotch tops have those wonderful demonic faces in them, I think it makes them better for playing metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilsolomon Posted November 8, 2014 Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 Thanks! How is it texture-wise? how does it feel while you play ? How durable is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted November 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 The epoxy is as smooth as the fretboard. No issues with durability. I sand my fretboards up to 12k micro mesh and then oil them with Teak oil. They play very well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Finally finished my 59 Korina V. Only took 9 years. It has been refinished 3 times over that course and the neck was broken once and repaired. Better pictures will be up next week as I will have the guitar on display this weekend at a local woodworking show. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Two '59 Korina Vs completed on PG in one month? Seriously? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 I've got two more bodies sitting on the shelf already glued up. Just need necks made. And the irony of this picture is that this is the chair my first one fell off of and broke 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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