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Difference In Lacquers?


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I haven't been around here for a long time. I haven't been building much and i had forgotten how much good information there was here.

Here is my question: I'm finishing a neck to be painted black. Anyway, I want to make sure I am not going to run into compatibility issues by using Deft's Lacquer Sanding Sealer underneath an automotive lacquer paint. Should this be an issue? And if this works OK, would I be OK using Deft's clear lacquer as a clear coat, use the automotive lacquer clear coat or leave the paint alone?

Any advice would be gratefully appreciated. Thanks.

BTW, I really like the new design, very modern looking and easy to use, nice work.

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It's best to test, as deft tends to be nitro and a lot of automotive lacquers are acrylic. Any other answers are likely speculative. I have used water based sanding sealer under automotive lacquer with good results, but all that shows is that trying it out is the only real way of knowing. Also, why go with a sealer? You could put black auto lacquer straight on. Then I would recommend coating with the appropriate automotive clear, as it has already been formulated to work with the color coat. One other thing you could do is use shellac barrier coats, but now you are talking several products, at least one of which is likely unnecessary.

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Thank you guys, I appreciate the help. Ripthorn, I never even stopped to think that there were both Nitro and Acryli lacquers. I sort of figured that lacquer is lacquer, Live and learn. sdshirtman, why do you uggest staying away from Deft? I''m not questioning your advice, just wondering what kind of problems it creates. Thanks again, I have been away from this for 3 or 4 years and I wasn't all that great at finishing back then.

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sd, thanks, I hadn't heard that. Have you ever tried the Optima water based stuff? I've done a couple of guitars with it and I like using it a lot. I have given the guitars away, so I don't know how it holds up, but it doesn't try to kill you like Nitro. Thanks.

You are in San Diego? We lived in Orange County until 2005 and moved to Oregon. San Diego is great. I worked for Pacific Bell and had an assignment thet kept me in an apartment in Ocean Beach for 6 months through the summer. I worked in several places that were not that nice. :) Thanks for your help, I'm just kind of getting back into this silly hobby after 13 operations in the last 6 years. Is Drak still around? He was helpful to me, and there was a guy who, I believe, went by Danno G. who lives up here and we have met up several times over the years. Some good guys here as I recall.

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What wood(s) are you using for your neck? If its all maple, you really dont need to seal it... prime and paint like normal. If its all maple and you're just looking to clear it, try this stuff out, works great!

http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY

if you're using mahogany or other open grained woods, you can use any water based sealer, and sand back. I've used spray max over water based sanding sealer with good results.

Edited by bob123
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The problem deft has is it doesn't get as hard as it should.

If you're doing the rattle can route I've heard Mohawk or behlen lacquers work very well. Or you can look at reranch.

I'm surprised to hear someone say that Deft doesn't dry hard enough. Most of the complaints I have read and have experienced are that it drys too hard, making it prone to chipping easily. Bumps that my other nitro guitars have only received dents from or even no damage, save a scuff mark, resulted in decent sized chips of lacquer and paint missing on my Deft coated guitars.

If it is all that you can get your hands on I would use Deft. But if you can get Behlen or ReRanch or Mohawk I would use those first.

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