Kelly body bevels

[wisdom727]

I'm half-way through a Jackson Kelly-ish build.

The body is white limba with a walnut center laminate flanked by black-dyed pear veneers. Yesterday, I routed it with my template. I got a little tear-out on two of the points, but otherwise, it's in good shape.

My next challenge is creating the distinctive edge bevels that get deeper towards the points.

Anyone know the actual depth measurements?

Suggested methods based on experience?

Rasp and careful hand-sanding?

Block plane for the conex bottom curve?

45 degree bevel router bit using my MDF template offset and rotated slightly?

I know many of us freehand it using an angle grinder with abrasive wheel, but I'm working in our basement spare bedroom and can't have a dust storm filling the house. Also, I found it really hard to control the the grinder when I tried it in past for belly and forearm carving.

Whatever method I choose, I've got scrap limba to practice on.

[killemall8]

You can make them however deep you want. Dont try to just stick to factory standards.
I would just make them with a bevel bit, evenly all the way around, instead of tapered.

[westhemann]

Make marks with a pencil and use a good rasp.You'll be surprised how easy it is to make bevels with a rasp if you are careful

[wisdom727]

Thanks for those suggestions, gentlemen. I think I will try both methods on scrap and decide which feels more confortable. I'll report back with results.

[demonx]

This is the closest shape I've done to what you're building. I did all these bevels by hand. Started out with greylead lines, took them close with a rasp, then swapped to a bastard file to take them to the lines. This pic was taken while they were still rough and not all balanced out yet.

[Prostheta]

I took a slightly different approach with a pair of Flying Vs I am building. I cut the bodies oversize by a specifically-calculated amount so that I could cut bevels straight off a bearing-guided bit. I then trimmed the bodies down to size which leaves tapering bevels. This is a bit too late for yourself since you have already cut the body to size.

[pan_kara]

I took a slightly different approach with a pair of Flying Vs I am building. I cut the bodies oversize by a specifically-calculated amount so that I could cut bevels straight off a bearing-guided bit. I then trimmed the bodies down to size which leaves tapering bevels. This is a bit too late for yourself since you have already cut the body to size.

Ahh, that's the solution if you forsee it in advance. I'm at a similar stage with my V and I read somewhere that this is done with a pin router and an oversize template.. but this way its possible with a normal router. You just have to have the templates spot-on. Gotta try next time.

This time around I penciled in the bevel lines and did several passes with the router with changing depths. Then I straightened out the "stairs" with a handplane - on the outer straight parts of the V. The curved part in the back is still waiting on me. I'll probably use a spokeshave and then sandpaper...