Lycking Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Been awhile since i've been using almost all my time with my girlfriend... ...And a load of Le Mans!!! Started with routing the bridge humbucker cavity and cleaning up with the drill-->chisel-->router Did the same with the neck PU cavityAnd had to do a mock-up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lycking Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Placed the V tailpiece at the sweet spot Fixed holes for strings, screws and ferrules on the back.. That was a "hole" lotta work Routed the jack and a channel to the cavity, and drilled a hole for the 3way switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lycking Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Polished the fretboard with steel wool and glued/sanded the mother-of-pearl side dots in place ....And forgot to take pic of thatAnd now it's all about a fretjob, which i havnt tried before from scratch And 2 things is messy! How do i fix these two? Crisiiiis! (the chips) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 I would not bother about the chips at the fret on the board, just play the gitir & they will make no difference. Give us a few more piks of the chip in the maple, & some rough dimensions. we can advise you better then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 Is the fretboard chipped (ie, pieces missing altogether) or just flakes lifting off under the frets (ie, pieces just barely attached)? If the pieces are missing completely you can probably just mix up some sanding dust from an offcut from the fretboard with CA (superglue) to make a filler paste. Fill up the chips and sand flush when dry. Dark woods hide this best. If the pieces are still attached you can gently push them back down with a tooth pick and apply a drop of CA to each chip. Again, once dry sand flush. If the chips aren't visible because the fret sides overhang far enough I wouldn't bother fixing them. The chip out on the neck will be more difficult to hide. You may get lucky with a small sliver of matching scrap timber that can be shaped to fill the void and glued in, but you'll probably end up with a visible glue line. Match the grain and colour as best you can and call it character/voodoo? I dunno - maybe someone else has a good solution? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 The chip out on the neck will be more difficult to hide. You may get lucky with a small sliver of matching scrap timber that can be shaped to fill the void and glued in, but you'll probably end up with a visible glue line. Match the grain and colour as best you can and call it character/voodoo? I dunno - maybe someone else has a good solution? That is what I would do. I would likely then contour the neck join quite a bit more and see how much of the repair can be carved away. With the way the fretboard is under cut there will always be a little bit that is visible. Play way up on the neck with dirty hands for a while and that will go away. If you fix it so it cannot be felt, and it's a good player, you'll forget about it after a while. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lycking Posted June 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 As always thanks alot for the great answers gentlemen! Always a pleasure to seek advices from you great guys! The fretboard chips are just lift-ups from the fretting, i could actually press them back in place with a nail, and now that the ebony has gotten it's plan black color back overnight (it was brighter/greyish after sanding) are they almost invisible I would not bother about the chips at the fret on the board, just play the gitir & they will make no difference. Give us a few more piks of the chip in the maple, & some rough dimensions. we can advise you better then. I'll try to take a few pictures and measure it when i'm back at home tomorrow or sunday. Is the fretboard chipped (ie, pieces missing altogether) or just flakes lifting off under the frets (ie, pieces just barely attached)? If the pieces are missing completely you can probably just mix up some sanding dust from an offcut from the fretboard with CA (superglue) to make a filler paste. Fill up the chips and sand flush when dry. Dark woods hide this best. If the pieces are still attached you can gently push them back down with a tooth pick and apply a drop of CA to each chip. Again, once dry sand flush. If the chips aren't visible because the fret sides overhang far enough I wouldn't bother fixing them. The chip out on the neck will be more difficult to hide. You may get lucky with a small sliver of matching scrap timber that can be shaped to fill the void and glued in, but you'll probably end up with a visible glue line. Match the grain and colour as best you can and call it character/voodoo? I dunno - maybe someone else has a good solution? I did the superglue and dust trick with a hole in the fretboard which it had acquired during shipping, it worked like a charm and is basically invisible, except for that it is shining a bit more than the rest of the wood, but it's just squished in between a fret and the 9th fret dot, so they take the eyes away from the mark. I also did the scrap trick on the back of the neck and it has some glue lines of course, but hey! Scars are just reminders of the past Patina and mistakes makes the soul.. I think i'll try this here aswell, going to be hard to square out the hole though! The chip out on the neck will be more difficult to hide. You may get lucky with a small sliver of matching scrap timber that can be shaped to fill the void and glued in, but you'll probably end up with a visible glue line. Match the grain and colour as best you can and call it character/voodoo? I dunno - maybe someone else has a good solution? That is what I would do. I would likely then contour the neck join quite a bit more and see how much of the repair can be carved away. With the way the fretboard is under cut there will always be a little bit that is visible. Play way up on the neck with dirty hands for a while and that will go away. If you fix it so it cannot be felt, and it's a good player, you'll forget about it after a while. SR Hmm the contouring is a really great idea, but i dont think it'll work since it's just under the fretboard, and i'd prefer not to make that bow/contour towards the middle.. I think i'll try to fill it with maple and then just leave it as good as it gets! The thing that annoys me the most about it isn't the faultyness itself, but more that a little router slip can do that much! Thanks a world again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lycking Posted June 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Frets installedSanding and filing down the fret ends to the fretboardFret ends done and angled Tuner holes drilled and tuners test installed Test strung up to position the bridge and to make pull in the neck before i adjust the truss rod and level the frets I'm about to begin on figuring out how to recess the TOM, any of you got experience in doing that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nowa90 Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 I have done it thrice. Just plan your post holes, center line between them, then expand in each direction however big you want the recess to be. Then, clamps 2 boards on the exterior of your line with 2 stop blocks and route with a template bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 I just make a template. I use a forstner bit on the ends, so it will be perfectly round, then just use a straight edge to make the sides. Then use that to rout it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 +1 on those methods. That's an easy one to recess if you have access to the adjusters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lycking Posted August 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 Finally returned from travelling, and for the first time in ages i had time to work just a little on the V I started with routing for the recessed TOM, and then i routed/chiseled space for the control cavity's cover.Sadly, none of the two turned out as nice as i'd hoped, but well, nothing ever gets perfect i suppose And right now am i preparing the guitar to begin finishing with danish oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lycking Posted September 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Oiled up and set aside the sunday to finish this build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Things not going as you'd hoped them to always helps push your standards higher the next time around. That said, I think this has turned out really well. How does she feel? Fired up ready to roar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lycking Posted September 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Yeah, learning by doing! (and messing up hehe) Still need to finish the rest of the hardware, but as of now, the neck is lightning fast, and it really has lower friction than any neck i've felt in my life, really suprised over how well that turned out. The body itself is also slick and smooth, the oil really sealed it up nicely. But i'm wondering if i can sand the sides a little with 4-600ish grain sandpaper, since the grain raised a little and made it a bit rough after the last layer of oil. Would this mess up the finish or anything? Havn't really worked with oil like this before Can't wait 'till it's plugged in and turned up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lycking Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Got the strap locks in placeFixed backside ferrulesKnocked the posts in and sorted the TOM Tailpiece is in ('58 FV style - my all time favorite TP)Shielding of the electronics done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lycking Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Question.. Is this grounding enough? Or do i have to "melt" some of the goldplating off? I have no idea if it's conductive enough, or if i have to get further into it. Not because it can fall off (it wont), but solely because of the groundingI've had some strins on and had sound through it, and it is noisy. That was without the shielded backcover, but i'll se later when its closer to finish.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lycking Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Getting control over the things...Well, in all cases more control than over the spagghetti beneath it Jack fixedOoh, shiny.. No more loose screws And a set of test strings to fit the nut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lycking Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 But! There's alot left to do. -Fasten the nut -Build a real pickup winder and wind a neck pickup - it sounds like heaven, bright and clear, buuut has the output of a potato.. -(possibly) get a new agathe and cut it to a truss rod cover (yay or nay?) -Fix the cavity cover -Fix the grounding -Fix some of the frets And then the biggest problem i've had.. The action is WAY too high! It's 0,8-0,9cm by the 19-20th fret, i must have made a serious calculation mistake when i reccessed the TOM.. Dangit! How in the world do i rescue this? Is it to remove the TOM posts and reccess it even more? I've never had an axe with a TOM, so i'm completely lost about how to work this out.. Next time, i'll make that neck angle! The neck has a bit frontbow, so i might give it a little backbow, that might help a few mm. I'm open for any suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 Yeah, you're probably gonna have to deepen your TOM recess. I'm an amateur by all accounts though, so don't let my opinion sway you too much. I'm sure one of the more experienced members here will chime in sooner or later. Beside that though, killer guitar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Check your neck relief before going to the extreme of recessing the Tune-o-matic further. If your neck has bowed forward under string tension you may be able to claw a bit of action back by tweaking the trussrod. If your TOM has the screwhead adjusters at the top of the posts you should be able to recess it a bit more and still retain the ability to adjust the height. If not you're obviously going to come to a point where the bridge is recessed so far you'll be unable to get your fingers around the knurled sections of the posts to set the bridge height. Do what you can and chalk it up to experience for build number 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lycking Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 I actually finished this fella a while ago, just havn't had a lot of time, so here is it finished :-) And it plays great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Oh wow. I saw this in my Inbox on lunch today and couldn't wait to get to a desktop to check it out better. Is everybody making Vs this month? It's about that time of year that Wes makes another one too, isn't it? ;-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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