Thoughtless 7 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Hi guys, How much work will be need to change the bridge over from a Lo-TRS trem to a Lo Pro Edge 7? Also, will it make it more difficult to intonate? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 I made some moderately accurate measurements of a Lo Pro 7 route from my RG7620 before I sold it a few years back, but I don't have any data for the Lo TRS 7. I don't have the intonation reference points from Lo Pro 7 either. If that's any use to you I can send them through. According to this installation manual the stud holes need to be located 10.7mm closer to the nut than your scale length - eg, if scale length = 25.5" (647.7mm) then studs need to be drilled at a distance of 637mm from the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtless 7 Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 That would be really helpful. The Lo TRS posts are in the same locations as the Lo Pro Edge which is a good start! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Here you go. Note that the diagram is not to scale, so don't use it directly as a cutting guide printed at 1:1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtless 7 Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 That diagram is really helpful, and looking at it seems to confirm that the Lo Pro Edge will fit in with little to no modifying needed. What's the best way to remove the old stud posts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 There used to be a good video and write-up here somewhere but I can't find it. I use a similar technique to this: I'd suggest using a block of wood with a hole drilled through it rather than the PVC pipe offcut used in the video - spreads the pressure out over a larger area - but the principle is the same. Depsite what some people suggest do not use a claw hammer or pliers to lever the studs out. Assuming you can protect the finish from damage while using these tools, both methods will pull the studs out of the body at a slight angle which will oval the holes the studs are being extracted from. The studs need to come out vertically to maintain the round shape of the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 This the one you were looking for Curtis? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtless 7 Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 I've used that technique before on getting TOM studs out, but wasn't sure if that will work on the Lo Pro ones. When putting the new studs in, is it worth sticking a dab of glue on them or just push them in and they will be secure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 This the one you were looking for Curtis? http://www.projectgu...matic-bushings/ SR Thanks Scott. It's close, but I was sure there was one more recent than that. The pictorial at the end is the right idea. However the video method is only valid for bushings that are hollow all the way through. Some studs, such as those supplied with the Wilkinson VS100 or Ibanez Lo Pro are solid-bottomed, and the video method in that post won't work. When putting the new studs in, is it worth sticking a dab of glue on them or just push them in and they will be secure? Only if the holes are a bit loose fitting. The ones I've extracted have all been press-fit only. A little bit of PVA may add enough lubrication to help slightly tight bushings go in smoothly. Go carefully pressing the bushings in - the trem route on the Lo Pro doesn't leave much wood behind the posts, and it's really easy for tight fitting bushing to split the wood as they go in. Firm finger pressure should be enough. Save using the wooden mallet for when there's lots of timber around the bushing hole (eg, Les Pauls). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtless 7 Posted April 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 This might be a silly question, but how easy do you think it will be to modify a standard Lo Pro Edge 7 to accept the U-Bar? I really like the silver/chrome Lo Pro Edge 7s, however they don't make them with the extra hole in for the U-bar... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Don't know. I've only seen photos of the contraption fitted to Munky's guitar in magazines, never in person. Does it snap in from the top, or screw in from underneath, or something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtless 7 Posted April 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 The bottom leg of the U clips into the plate the same way as the arm does, but I think the top part just inserts and rests inside the plate. The annoying this is, I actually own a K7, but its 380 miles away at my parents house. If I can't find the information, I'll wait until i'm next up and rip it apart for all the answers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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