RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 The curve on the top is really nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 A Metal Electrosocket Tele cup from ALLPARTS fits right in the hole for the input jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 A Neutrik locking jack would fit with a little modification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 And a regular LP Jack plate fits perfect as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 The pickups for this build will be a set of US hardware Diablo Humbuckers. I am using US made poles, slugs, baseplates, and vintage correct butyrate bobbins. Of course these have a Diablo wind and A8 mags to make them mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 They fit very well in the pickup routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 The set got a little hot in the wax and deformed the neck bobbin so I am going to put covers on them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Plenty of room even with the vintage long legs. Remember the mortise measurements? Well the tenon is a hair under. Perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Tuner spacing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Did you burn your fingers on those pickup rings? I have never seen a set that didn't need aome sort of fitting to the top. Of course that could be due to my unortodox tops...... SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Did you burn your fingers on those pickup rings? I have never seen a set that didn't need aome sort of fitting to the top. Of course that could be due to my unortodox tops...... SRYeah I am not a fan. They feel clunky to me. The metal ones from ALLPARTS are really nice but I would need to put a piece of sandpaper on the top and sand them to fit.However the pickup routes are tight enough I am going to mount them direct. Basically I am going to make an aluminum bar with threaded holes for mounting screws. The aluminum bar will be held in the bottom of the pickup route with a pair of #4 ss screws. If that doesn't work because of room I am going to put some 4-40 standoffs in the deep leg pockets and fill them with epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Checking the neck angle and scale. The neck angle is normal for a LP. The scale is 24.75" and spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Time to start working on getting it together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 I am going to stain the top dark and sand it back. Normally I do not do this as it lessens the 3D effect of good figured maple. However with the transparent black burst I need to emphasise the grain a so it shows through the burst better.Before staining the top we shoot a coat of shellac on the black limba to protect it. Taping the top off first keeps the shellac only on the sides. Remember to tape up the neck mortise as we don't want anything on our glue surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 After Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Is the top carve made with CNC too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Is the top carve made with CNC too?Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 I thought you hated "bug juice" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Is the top carve made with CNC too?Yes.I have no idea about CNC requeriments and so on, but... would you consider to use the CNC to carve your guitars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Is the top carve made with CNC too?Yes.I have no idea about CNC requirements and so on, but... would you consider to use the CNC to carve your guitars?Depends.If I am trying to build a guitar for under $1000 then maybe. At least get it close with the CNC.If the guitar is more than $1000 no.I have looked into it and it is very very hard to draw a carve in CAD that does not look like it was cut by a machine. The best solution is to use the CNC to rough in a general shape then finish the carve by hand... however by the time I got all the CAD right I could have just carved it by hand.I really like carving tops so I guess that is why I have never put a lot of effort into the CAD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 25, 2014 Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Agreed. Did we get any shots of how the carve looks off the mill? I can imagine that from the production model that Fast Guitars seem to use, it would be pretty close to the mark, ready for fine sanding instead of labour-intensive subsequent shaping. It looked amazing out of the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 The first post has a picture of the body in the CNC getting the top carved. It is very close to done when it comes off the CNC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Of course the shellac shows us all the little swirl scratches from the DA. They were invisible until the shellac shrunk and brought them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 The edges are good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2014 Time for stain. I am using alcohol as the medium because I am not as worried about blending the dye as I am about finishing the sand back today. Normally when dying a top I use water. It allows for better control over the burst and the dye. The goal today is to just darken the figure so the fast drying alcohol allows me to sand back 20 minutes after dying. The burst is going to go in the clear so I can get the depth I want from the finish.Not sure what type of party this is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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