Jump to content

Mohawk rattle can nitro

Recommended Posts

For the last couple of projects, I switched to water based lacquers by emtech. I used EM6000 quite extensively, learned to prep with it, shoot it, buff it etc. The learning curve was steep but I did end up being able to shoot nice finishes with it.

My problem with the EM6000 is that it always had problems, even when shot properly, according to spec (yes, I have the proper temp, film thickness and all that):

1) Scratches and dings have a white-ish imprint that really shows under certain light.

2) Blue tint over any slightly dark colour

3) Fixes are not invisible like with nitro.

4) Finish can crack because of wood movement (saw this on two guitars - it is slight, but its there, and there's no way to fix it, including re-melting the finish).

So I'm done with the water-based stuff.

I'm refinishing two guitars that were darker because of all the problems above.

for these two guitars, I'd like to do a quick and dirty job but that will look like a million bucks.

I have some leftover McFadden's lacquer from a couple of years ago that I could shoot but I'm really worried that it would be past its shelf life.

For just two guitars (I'm going to do one at a time), I'd like to avoid getting the compressor/ spray gun out.

I'm really tempted to try Mohawk's rattle can lacquer and see how it works. Again, the rattle can route is just so much simpler for doing just one guitar, I'd rather do this for these two guitars, unless you guys think the mcfadden's is still good?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since I do not have experience with them, I'd say compare them side by side on scrap. Your working practices and preferences will likely differ from other people's.

Rattlecans tend to be higher in solvent content than paint for your gun so expect a longer cure time off the bat. That and the remnants at the bottom are more likely to spit when the can's pressure drops.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using EM1000 and EM6000 for the last couple years, but have experienced the same as you. I am working on a 54 gold top, and you can't do the bronze powder in waterbase, so I bought a gallon of nitro, and am thinking I will probably stick with it. As much as there are things I like about the waterbase finishes, there are some I don't like. I got horrible contamination somehow, and had to completely strip a guitar I was working on a few months ago. Total bummer.

The mcfaddens would likely be fine, just cut it a little extra with thinner would be my recommendation, but test on scrap. Comparing the two is a good idea. Because nitro can continously remelt, I don't know if there is quite the same shelf life restrictions as some other finishes. Just remelt and shoot. But, as Levar Burton would say, don't take my word for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nitro is probably more forgiving than most because of that. You take your pick between the best of an imperfect bunch I guess. I've read a lot of people commenting on the milkiness or blue haze of water-based finishes. It would slay me to finish up an instrument only to have that happen.

"Nyah, it's a crazy plan Wesley but it might just work!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The blue haze is killing me. I had what I thought was a perfect finish and colour but the blue haze made the guitar look purple. The solid brown back was not brown... arghghghgh! Same goes with the anthracite Strat I built. That combined with the weird discoloration on scratches and I'm done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...