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NorthStar 8-string headless


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I still suspect bad or only partial curing (Not curing completely before I took it out of the mold?) or something like that. Thinking about it, if it gets hotter than usual, it should really mean a faster curing process that normal, which suggests that that last idea might be totally wrong...

Taking them apart is a good idea. I might do that.

Anyway, its the first time it has happened, I have order a new batch of resin, will test it without pickup parts first the next time I have to cast pickups and se what happens.

The EMGs left the US on Thursday so they will probably arrive end of this week or beginning of next week so that I can wrap things up and hand it over to the customer. One of the pros of switching to EMGs is that the wiring will at least be quicker...

The Ebay seller actually knocked down the declared value on the package (for the customs) from 230$ to 59$ without me asking for it. So if someone in the EU would like to know were I got this from just PM me. That reduction of declared value is of cause not legal, but with world wide free shipping and (hopefully) low import taxes I got those pickups really cheep

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Skaumlrmavbild2014-07-04kl155334_zps760c

You're a nutter... and I mean that in the most wonderful of ways that leads to extremely cool guitars! Can't wait for this.

One thing I'd wish you'd try though is bending the tops over the arm contours. I've never been a fan of arm contours that carve through the top wood.

Got a bending blanket? It's pretty easy.

Chris

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Some epoxies can be quite fractious as you know. A runaway cure is probably not desirable for what is being encapsulated or the quality of the finished epoxy. As I mentioned, the West System I had an "adventure" with decided to bubble and attempt to escape the tub, not unlike the angry slime in Ghostbusters. I doubt you would be able to recover much other than the keepers, mags and slugs from the epoxy (if that) but I would definitely want to know whether the internal shape of the encapsulation warped or melted the plastics in there, and how. Take something positive from it as a learning experience.

Does the epoxy manufacturer make a retarder or a filler like West System? Whilst I have not tried anything like this, I would consider experimenting with the same "case painting" as you did previously, but having a safe low-density slow-curing encapsulation mix. Just putting ideas out there. Maybe overcomplicating the issue, as it might even be a simple case of banging it in the refrigerator to slow down the process.

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Skaumlrmavbild2014-07-04kl155334_zps760c

You're a nutter... and I mean that in the most wonderful of ways that leads to extremely cool guitars! Can't wait for this.

One thing I'd wish you'd try though is bending the tops over the arm contours. I've never been a fan of arm contours that carve through the top wood.

Got a bending blanket? It's pretty easy.

Chris

Thanks, on the nutty part too...

I know about the arm rest, but the idea was to intentionally show the back wood, behind the tuners, at the arm rest and at the high fret cutaway. I think it will be a bit more visible when it is finished and I can take better, full on pictures. I just hope the customer will like how it turned out. I actually gave him the option to have the top bent, but he opted for this look.

Some epoxies can be quite fractious as you know. A runaway cure is probably not desirable for what is being encapsulated or the quality of the finished epoxy. As I mentioned, the West System I had an "adventure" with decided to bubble and attempt to escape the tub, not unlike the angry slime in Ghostbusters. I doubt you would be able to recover much other than the keepers, mags and slugs from the epoxy (if that) but I would definitely want to know whether the internal shape of the encapsulation warped or melted the plastics in there, and how. Take something positive from it as a learning experience.

Does the epoxy manufacturer make a retarder or a filler like West System? Whilst I have not tried anything like this, I would consider experimenting with the same "case painting" as you did previously, but having a safe low-density slow-curing encapsulation mix. Just putting ideas out there. Maybe overcomplicating the issue, as it might even be a simple case of banging it in the refrigerator to slow down the process.

I've had that bubbling experience too. That time I mixed way to much pigment into the mix (I made a calculus error...). For the "painting process I would like to try a filler, like some epoxies can be thickened with. Especially if I wanted just make an empty case and not encase the pickup totally. For now I just have thrown the batch away and waiting for a new shipment

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Your right, calculation!

So the pickups arrived today. Got them installed and the guitar up and running. The sound is nice, even though I think I could have been able to give the guitar a slightly better "bite" with my own pickups, but alas, no time to redo it. Maybe we can upgrade the guitar later on...

Here she is in front of her sister:

IMG_1157_zps0c9ded1d.jpg

I just have to give her a final set up, have a quick photo session for the web page and then its time to hand her over to the customer.

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"Calculus" sounds better. Makes it seem like more work that only a scientist could manage. ;-)

I've got to say that I prefer the "sister" better. I've never been one for headless guitars though, so that's not saying much. What do you think to using the Karelian Birch? I've used a hell of a lot of it on furniture around our house. Drawer fronts, facings on our bed, etc. Makes a fantastic accent wood when used selectively.

post-6639-0-59999200-1409167256_thumb.jp

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The birch was quite easy to get a nice finish on, It was pretty rough to resaw by hand, but other cutting and sanding was OK. The wood itself has a some tiny internal cavities almost lite very short hairline cracks along the burl pattern that is impossible to see before you start to work it. They are thin enough to fill with the try-oil but they were a surprise to me. The look is spectacular, especially if you get a piece lite this that also has som flame in it.

I know that the old Swedish guitar maker Levin (started at the turn of the last century to ca 1973, actually bought by Martin Co in 1969 and made Martins for the European market for a few years...) used flame birch (no burl) for backs and sides for their high end instruments in the 30-50's. I would love to get my hands on some "plain" flamed birch wide enough for guitar tops. The Swedish guitar builder Robban Sarling of Ares Guitars have used quite a bit of Birch and according to him the sound is quite similar to the sound of Maple.

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"Similar" is overstating it. Whilst not a million miles from Maple, Birch is significantly different. It is like a "smile curve" according to drum makers. Naturally good for room sounds. I could imagine it would make fantastic acoustics and archtops. Moreso than Maple. The problem is width and straight grain. It blotches like Maple though! I have a stash of flamed Birch sitting....

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