daveq Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 Has anyone seen a mahogany neck used as a bolt-on? I think most of the mahogany necks that I have seen are set necks of some sort. Quote
jbkim Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 FWIW, Warmoth offers mahogany for their necks. Quote
Hotrock Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 I know a man that builds mahogany necks. He laminates them with the grain on the centre piece going the opposite way to the outside ones. Quote
Hotrock Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 Oops . They're bolt on too (forgot about that bit) Quote
Scott Rosenberger Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 The Warmoth mahogany Necks are usually a 3 piece Laminate. All the ones I've seen are made this way Quote
hyunsu Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 hi.. i make my neck mahogany on bolt on neck... this mahogany is brazil mahogany bye... today snow... ^^ bye... Quote
daveq Posted January 20, 2004 Author Report Posted January 20, 2004 Thanks. hyunsu - have you had any problems with the screws not holding after removing the neck many times? The only issue I really had was the screws not holding - not the stiffness of the neck. Thanks for the info. I think I might look into some of those brass inserts. Dave Quote
hyunsu Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 hi.. i 'm not necessary screws . it is enable without screws, on head angle laminate.. many people waste titebond . and clamppling more power... that is no good method.. clamp is not press tool.. it is fixing tool.. too many press power.. titebond is go out.. and glueing is down.. and wood is laminate on press power.. that is no good... wood is power on return prev status... so forced laminated by clamp is not good.. sorry english is not my own language.. T_T planning work is too important.. and laminate suitability clamp.. save your titebond ^^ too many press power on clamp is titebond go out.. bye.. Quote
otgordin Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 so are you saying its better not to have my clamps really tight when laminating pieces of a body, neck, etc together? -Vadim Quote
daveq Posted January 20, 2004 Author Report Posted January 20, 2004 It's not that I don't appreciate the info but I'm not doing any lamination at all. I have done many lamintaed necks before but this one will not be laminated. I was just wondering if any one has seen other bolt-ons made of mahogany or other soft'ish wood. Thanks, Dave Quote
Guest AlexVDL Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 Hi Dave, my gothic mockingbird has a mahogany neck. I have removed it a couple of times and now the screws won't tighten anymore. I was thinking of drilling bigger holes, glueing in some hard maple dowels and drill new screw holes. So I don't think it's a good idea to use softer woods for bolt on necks, but that's my opinion. Quote
daveq Posted January 20, 2004 Author Report Posted January 20, 2004 Thanks Alex - that's exactly what I was wondering and was concerned with. Apparently, the Parker Mahogany NiteFly is a mahogany body and bolt-on mahogany neck. I don't know if they do anything special to handle this though. Anyway, I have heard mixed reviews on using the brass inserts but I think that's what I'm planning on doing. The people who are against it just don't seem to think it's worth it but with softer woods, I have a feeling it is. Have you heard anything about these? Quote
Guest AlexVDL Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 I know that Fender Japan uses something like it on their high end Yngwie Malmsteen models Quote
Southpa Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 So what Hyunsu ia saying is if your joint is a tight fit, ie. you sand each face smooth you will wind up squeezing all the glue out when clamping. His drawing looks like you get a better bond with the joint faces roughened up to help retain the glue while clamping. Speaking of clamps, I like the ones you are using, I think I might even be able to make a couple like that. I have some 5/16" threaded rod laying around. I liked using 1 piece mahogany for a neckthrough with a dual action (Hotrod) trussrod. I found truss rod adjusting was more responsive. Once the guitar was strung up you could adjust for relief and actually see the strings move up or down off the fretboard as you turn. AlexVDL, I don't think the problem is with the neck because your anchor point is actually the body and not the neck. I don't see good results by simply anchoring a neck into mahogany with just wood screws. You can see how soft the wood is by attacking it with a router at slow speed (I learned my lesson there). The stuff just tears out in chunks. At best, I would drill out the neck and then tap bushings or sleeves in for bolts to slide through. The bolts would have to be a close fit for the inside diameter of the bushings to avoid wobbling. On the body side I would screw in threaded anchors that have machine threads inside. And you would need at least 4 with very close tolerance for the mating surfaces. Any gaps between the anchors and the surface of the neck pocket and you might rip them out by tightening too much. On a side note, I find that getting a digital camera one of my first priorities for these discussions. Some things are just too hard to describe these days. Quote
Guest AlexVDL Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 I don't know what hyunsu tried to say, but the glue itself is not that strong... a thick piece of glue is hard but can break easily (glue is brittle). The smoother the surfaces the less glue and the stronger the joint. The glue should act the same as the natural binding material for the wood fibres. By overtighten the two surfaces the glue will get soaked up by the wood, and that is exactly what you want. Damn it's hard to explain in english, but trust me, a thick layer of glue is not the right way! Now on the the subject please... Southpa, I was talking about the neck itself being too soft. By removing and putting back the neck you have to untighten te screws and tighten them back. After a couple of times the screw holes in the neck get too big (which doesn't happen that quick with harder woods), so you can endlessly turn the screws without them getting tight. So I want to insert hard maple dowels in the place of the old screw holes in the neck. It doesn't have to do with the body, but with the softness of the neck itself, and it being too soft to hold screws. Quote
krazyderek Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 can you post some pics of when you install those studs dave? i'm interested in those, it'd be great if you could give everyone an acurate description of how easy they install and if they're reallly worth it for (soft of hard) hard woods.. Quote
Lex Luthier Posted January 20, 2004 Report Posted January 20, 2004 Damn it's hard to explain in english, but trust me, a thick layer of glue is not the right way! Yeah, you don't want your pieces to "float" on a layer of glue. Quote
daveq Posted January 20, 2004 Author Report Posted January 20, 2004 So what Hyunsu ia saying is if your joint is a tight fit, ie. you sand each face smooth you will wind up squeezing all the glue out when clamping. His drawing looks like you get a better bond with the joint faces roughened up to help retain the glue while clamping. Speaking of clamps, I like the ones you are using, I think I might even be able to make a couple like that. I have some 5/16" threaded rod laying around. Well, I'm still confused - are you talking about laminating the neck again? I think Alex is describing the exact problem that I was concerned with. I grabbed some brass inserts today and will probably be installing them soon. I just don't want to risk having trouble with it later. The neck itself should be fine - I'm not worried about it warping or breaking - it's just the screw holes that can get worn out with time (from taking the neck off). If I can get to it tonight, I should be able to take some pics. The digital camera is only at home once in a while so I don't always have the chance to take pics like I would want to. Thanks for the replies. Dave Quote
hyunsu Posted January 21, 2004 Report Posted January 21, 2004 sorry.. i am not use english.. so i do not expression what i want to say.. T_T thank... Quote
westhemann Posted January 21, 2004 Report Posted January 21, 2004 wow...that looks neat. but i think i understood what you were saying. i think you said "too many people waste glue because they have a poor fit and then try to make up for the poor fit by using excessive clamping pressure.a good fit and gentle clamping pressure is much better" and i agree Quote
Guest AlexVDL Posted January 21, 2004 Report Posted January 21, 2004 Oh if he meant that I surely agree!!! Quote
hyunsu Posted January 21, 2004 Report Posted January 21, 2004 thank westhemann !!!. it is my wite message.. thank... thank... i will make mahogany neck.. my new guitar. westhemann successfully done your new guitar.. good luck.. Quote
westhemann Posted January 21, 2004 Report Posted January 21, 2004 hi.. i 'm not necessary screws . it is enable without screws, on head angle laminate.. many people waste titebond . and clamppling more power... that is no good method.. clamp is not press tool.. it is fixing tool.. too many press power.. titebond is go out.. and glueing is down.. and wood is laminate on press power.. that is no good... wood is power on return prev status... so forced laminated by clamp is not good.. sorry english is not my own language.. T_T planning work is too important.. and laminate suitability clamp.. save your titebond ^^ too many press power on clamp is titebond go out.. bye.. screws are not needed many people use too much glue and clamp too tight that is not good clamps are not for pressing,they are for fixing items in place too much pressure will sqeeze out the glue and make it weaker that is what i think you said...am i right? the only part i don't agree with is the part about squeezing out the glue making it weaker...from what i understand titebond needs only a very thin amount to bond effectively,and you can't sqeeze it all out...some will always stay...but anyway i am sure you know what you are talking about...your guitars are beautiful i look forward to all your posts Quote
hyunsu Posted January 24, 2004 Report Posted January 24, 2004 thank you westhemann. i unserstand your mean ^^ i'm not skill english ... so i include pic.. many titebond is not mean 1st pic.. my mean is 2st pic. thank you westhemann. have nice weekend... Quote
Setch Posted January 24, 2004 Report Posted January 24, 2004 the only part i don't agree with is the part about squeezing out the glue making it weaker...from what i understand titebond needs only a very thin amount to bond effectively,and you can't sqeeze it all out...some will always stay...but anyway i am sure you know what you are talking about...your guitars are beautiful Wes, with a well fitted joint overtightening can actually starve the joint, by forcing *all* the glue out, or enough that you can compromise the strength of the final product. It's a bit of a balencing act - too much glue, weak joint.... too little... weak joint! Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.