Jump to content

This ain't gonna be yer "normal" SS.


Recommended Posts

Okay, you gotta throw out a clue, is the leg rest still gonna be comfy when the carving is finished?

Well, this carve is going to have some edges to go with the soft curves I normally carve, but everywhere it contacts your body should be smooth and comfy. As far as how this offset design fits against your leg while seated......man I have no clue. :blink:

SR

Not to worry Scotty. If its not too comfy on yer leg when your sitting its no big deal.

Just so long as when your standing with your left foot up on a big moniter, with yer 26 Marshall stacks lined up behind you, shredding with the left hand, waving a katana over your head catching lightning bolts with the right hand, hair blasting back in the wind from your 2 36 inch fans blowing up from the stage floor - all while being cheerd on by your 700,000 strong audience of tyrannosarus rex fans who traveled thru space & time to come see you make steve vai look like an amature. then its all good.

<_<:killinme<_<

Don't forget the lasers, there's gotta be lasers.

SR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, you gotta throw out a clue, is the leg rest still gonna be comfy when the carving is finished?

Well, this carve is going to have some edges to go with the soft curves I normally carve, but everywhere it contacts your body should be smooth and comfy. As far as how this offset design fits against your leg while seated......man I have no clue. :blink:

SR

Not to worry Scotty. If its not too comfy on yer leg when your sitting its no big deal.

Just so long as when your standing with your left foot up on a big moniter, with yer 26 Marshall stacks lined up behind you, shredding with the left hand, waving a katana over your head catching lightning bolts with the right hand, hair blasting back in the wind from your 2 36 inch fans blowing up from the stage floor - all while being cheerd on by your 700,000 strong audience of tyrannosarus rex fans who traveled thru space & time to come see you make steve vai look like an amature. then its all good.

<_<:killinme<_<

Don't forget the lasers, there's gotta be lasers.

SR

Reflecting off the studs on your codpiece, covering your spandex pants

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spandex & studded codpieces ? holy batmobile Muzz what the crap do you be wearing when ur jammin ? I think you spent waaaay too much time watchin kiss & judas priest videos.

as to the lasers, you just reminded me that Vai is on tour again, hope he hits Ireland but probobly wont :unsure:

Last time he was here the lights all went out & this big neon funkadelic robot lookin freak (steve) walks onto stage with lasers shootin outa his fingers - ha ha ha cooool.

Still, just pales in comparison to my diamond encrusted chainmail kilt & bejeweled manolo blahnik stilettoes. stylin bitches :rock

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You guys are killin' me........send me some pics Paulie, that kilt sounds like a stunner.

I finished up the template for the weight reduction routes.

IMG_0575.JPG

And put it to use. My cavities are only as deep as the neck tenon. This will make it easy to guage and ensure that I do not carve into them when I shape the back.

IMG_0577.JPG

Then I used a bottom bearinged pattern bit and made a template to fit the neck into the top.

IMG_0580.JPG

Nice tight fit.

IMG_0582.JPG

SR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This bridge comes with a swell little template.

IMG_0591.JPG

And it fits nicely.

IMG_0592.JPG

I used the templates to center punch my holes for drilling and drilled the string holes.

IMG_0593.JPG

My bit doesn't reach all the way through the body, so I use the pin locating system to flip it over and finish drilling from the other side. This, by the way is how you get string holes spaced nicely and in a straight line. Place the string holes onto the pin and finish drilling from the back. This removes the bit wander from the equation.

IMG_0595.JPG

SR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This particular bridge doesn't really need perfectly spaced string holes, since it uses a retainer. And you have to use the retainer because it is the only metal piece all the strings touch, so that is what you ground to. I routed a spot for that and drilled the mounting bolt holes and did a test mount. It fits.

IMG_0596.JPG

And I got the pickup routes done before calling it a weekend.

IMG_0598.JPG

And drilled control knob shaft holes.

IMG_0601.JPG

SR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is this your second build with the Hannes bridge? They do look pretty schmick.

Needs more holes drilled for all the mini toggle switches that SS's need for the coil splitting, phase flipping, kill switching and kitchen sinking ;)

Did I miss what pickup are going into this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow that was a productive weekend, looking fantastic, the bridge looks great, I haven't seen that kind before.

You know, I had a lot of stuff to do around the house and didn't actually get to spend as much time as I would have liked working on this......and this weekend flew by - even faster than they normally do. But when I sat back and took stock, I did get quite a bit done. I was rather surprised by it, to tell you the truth. The bridge is a Hannes by Schaller.

They are indeed nice bridges, very sleek and comfy, nice looking and very solidly connected to the body. I don't like the saddle height adjustment being directly under the strings, and I don't think there is much, if anything to the hype they promote about this bridge....but still, it is a very nice bridge.

SR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is this your second build with the Hannes bridge? They do look pretty schmick.

Needs more holes drilled for all the mini toggle switches that SS's need for the coil splitting, phase flipping, kill switching and kitchen sinking ;)

Did I miss what pickup are going into this?

It is indeed my second, but it is due to an accident. I had a computer hiccup during the ordering of the first, and re-entered my order. I didn't pay enough attention to the list of goods and just completed the order and waited for the stuff to show up. When two came in I decided to just keep it and use that type on two guitars. It is nice looking, after all. The first guitar to get a Hannes was the "not your mama's strat".

I've made a couple guitars with extra phases and coil splits and so on.......and learned that after playing with all those little doodads once, I never used them again. So now my philosophy is to go with just the basics, maybe not quite as basic as RAD's stuff--but basic.

The pick-ups are a fine set of Klein's Wicked PAFs. The original plan was a more modern hotter set that still kept some of that bluesy classic rock growl that I love, but they are discontinued. A lot of my favorite players use Kleins and the guy whose sound I like the most uses this set. I've been very happy with the sets I've gotten so far, so I'll probably keep going back for more.

SR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Speaking of pick-ups, I've got a question for you guys. I plan on direct mounting these over a layer of foam rubber. The hole in the tabs is threaded for use with rings and is quite narrow. Do you guys that use direct mounts all the time normally bore that hole out wider to accept a screw with a bit of bite to it or just find and use really skinny screws? A heavier screw makes more sense structurally to me, but it makes going to rings at a later date (should one so desire) a bit more of a challenge.

SR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any clue about the body carve? That's intriguing as hell... B-)

Wouldn't that spoil the fun? I actually have left a couple of clues scattered here and there.

I do think that once I get the carve started someone is going to say Doh! I should have seen that coming. I should be able to begin the carve next weekend with any luck. I only need to get the control cavity squared away first.

SR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've made a couple guitars with extra phases and coil splits and so on.......and learned that after playing with all those little doodads once, I never used them again. So now my philosophy is to go with just the basics, maybe not quite as basic as RAD's stuff--but basic.

Know what you mean. Years ago I heavily modded one of my guitars with all manner of switching and tricks, and only ever ended up using a coil tap on the neck humbucker. I just found the rest of the options completely superfluous to my requirements. I've also never used the tone control on any of my guitars I've ever owned so I omit it on my builds, either by leaving out the tone pot altogether or, if the sound is a bit too edgy, by substituting the equivalent fixed resistor/capacitor combination as if the tone control was fitted but permanently wound to 10.

Speaking of pick-ups, I've got a question for you guys. I plan on direct mounting these over a layer of foam rubber. The hole in the tabs is threaded for use with rings and is quite narrow. Do you guys that use direct mounts all the time normally bore that hole out wider to accept a screw with a bit of bite to it or just find and use really skinny screws? A heavier screw makes more sense structurally to me, but it makes going to rings at a later date (should one so desire) a bit more of a challenge.

I've usually just used skinny screws to direct mount, so long as they're small enough to pass through the existing pickup ears without chewing up the threads. Never had any issue with loose mounting of the pickups as a result. Dense foam under the pickup minimises the worst of the wobble. Needs to be really heavy duty stuff, automotive weather stripping or door sealing foam. The offcuts you can get out of some pickup pacakging isn't dense enough and will either be too soft to start with, or will start to "memorise" it's compressed shape too much over time and gradually offer less support as it remains compressed.

I've even used hollow metal tubing between the pickup ears and the wood to rigidly fix the pickup in place and do away with the foam altogether, but it's a lot more fiddly to install and height adjustment is fixed to the height of the tubes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use the tone pot extremely rarely--can't say never--except for ol' not your momma's strat. That ziricote top brightens things up a bit, so I do roll the tone pot back when using the bridge pickup.

I have access to the foam used for floor (fatigue) mats which is probably dense enough, but I think I'll likely cut up one of the foam sanding blocks that comes with micro- mesh. They are denser still.

SR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...