Zack Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 I always like to work out all details before I start a project. I am about to start a Tele with a 1/4' maple cap and I decided to make it a set neck because I hate the Fender neck joint with a passion and want a comfortable heel. My plan is to route the visible part of the neck to the usual spot and have a "tenon" extend to under the neck pickup hidden by the pickguard. It will be 22 frets so there will be a bit of fret board overhang. Also the neck will be natural color while the body will be tobacco and vintage yellow. I've made a workflow list and would greatly appreciate if anyone would like to critique it. The first 5 are inconsequential to the critical flow that I need advice on. I've included a pic I found that comes close to the neck joint I want. Thanks in advance! Telecaster workflow: Setup band saw Build router table Modify neck pocket on template Copy templates in ½” MDF Create 2nd set-neck pocket template Thickness plane body blank to 1 1/2" Measure and trace templates Route truss rod channel Cut out shapes with band saw Route neck and body outsides with templates on table Drill tuner holes Drill headstock hole for truss adjustment access Glue maple cap halves Glue maple cap to body Route neck pocket and neck pickup Clamp neck to body Carve neck and carve neck joint Level neck tenon with body Glue fret board Route fret board to neck Inlays Sand and level fret board Dye fret board (Ebony) Stain and seal neck Route body cavities and drill jack hole Stain and seal body - Faux binding Glue neck to body Install and level frets Install nut Lacquer, lacquer, lacquer Wet sand, polish, and assemble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Do I understand you correctly if I assume that your plan is to have the fretboard flush with the body? If so I'm a bit concerned that the string action might be to high. Most fenders have the bottom of fretboard about 1/8" above the top of the body (someone will have the exact measurement...). If you look at the picture you posted you can even see a small amount of maple between the top and the fretboard. Personally I would not bother with a tenon. I would route the full with of the neck as a neck pocket and glue the neck in at the correct height. If you trust your routing and template making skills (no significant gaps between neck and body) there is no need for that extra step. The only reson is, as mentioned to cover up sloppy joints. Or for reasons like "I need it to be a Gibson style joint". Witch is fine, but a bit overkill IMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Posted April 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 No, I was planning on the gap between the fretboard and body and the full width of the neck was going to be extended. That's where I was running into issues on what to do when. If the standard neck pocket is enough for a secure bond then that saves a lot of headache and I can just glue the neck right before I spray lacquer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 I would make the neck in its entirety before you rout the body. I only build set neck guitars and have found this is the best order of operations. Just leave some of the heel uncarved so you can carve it into the heel after you glue it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Why the fretboard overhang? I extend the neck shaft all the way with 22 frets and have no fretboard overhang. There's no reason for it on a ground up build, unless you want to keep things like Fender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Posted April 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Great advice.Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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