psikoT Posted July 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 Very nice! I'm looking forward to seeing how you handle blending that transition in after you carve your neck......assuming you haven't invented a brand new square edged neck profile. Find or make yourself a matching chip out of scrap alder and glue it in. If it turns out you're not happy with the way that comes out, just sand that area a little lower till the chip is gone or the repair is invisible. It won't affect the neck join at all. SR Actually, I feel very lazy to carve the neck, don't give me ideas... Thanks, let's see how that chip works. I forgot you were planning to paint it black. If that's the case, it doesn't matter how nice the chip repair looks. Just glue it in, sand it flush and paint. SR The plan was painting only the top, the back side stays natural... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 Ahhhh. Slowly but surely we are learning all the little mysteries of this build. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 Ahhhh. Slowly but surely we are learning all the little mysteries of this build. SR That was a big spoiler actually... I blame that chip out!... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 That: is just so tasty. Really nice work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted July 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2015 is just so tasty. Really nice work!Thanks master, glad you guys find my work entertaining... I'm really enjoying this build, I'm not in a hurry anymore... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmensik Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 I enjoy your build too, you bet. It makes me more and more curious where it ends. Well, you are the artist of a bolt on joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted July 25, 2015 Report Share Posted July 25, 2015 Thanks master Oh, thank YOU, I wouldn't use the word master... I still have so much to learn. Actually, following this thread I understand that I still need to learn hand carving. your lines are crisp and the curves smooth. And I absolutely love how we think in the same direction. I did a slightly similar, but still very different thing around the neck pocket area on the guitar I showed earlier. The look is similar to what you have done here, but in reality very different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted July 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Hi there, I have been very busy lately and could not make much progress on this... Some pics from yesterday and today... neck carving. I mostly do it with the rasp, and lots of sanding. This time I had to do it in two parts: the neck itself first, then attach it to the body and made the joint afterwards. I don't use profile templates, everything is eyeball... and handball. Still have to work a bit more in the volute area... And that's all for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Still have to work a bit more in the volute area... Really? That looks damn clean to me. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted July 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Still have to work a bit more in the volute area... Really? That looks damn clean to me. SR I think so... it may look perfect, but the eyes are not enough when carving the neck profile. I need to feel with the hand that there are no bumps anywhere. Actually, I could not imagine how sensitive are the finger tips while hunting for irregularities in any carve... now I understand blind people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Still have to work a bit more in the volute area... Really? That looks damn clean to me. SR I think so... it may look perfect, but the eyes are not enough when carving the neck profile. I need to feel with the hand that there are no bumps anywhere. Actually, I could not imagine how sensitive are the finger tips while hunting for irregularities in any carve... now I understand blind people. Okay, yes I get that. You make a very good point. I look at my carves with my fingers much more than my eyes and they are never done until my fingers say they are. Carry on. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Carry on indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted July 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 Hi there, had a stupid week and could not make much progress on this... but the joint is mostly done. This improvisation means that now I can't paint only the top, because I've reached the bevel on the top while carving the back. So it would look a lil bit weird, I think... I will make the calculations when working in the top, but I guess is not possible. Anyway, here's the current status... I did most of the carving in the back side, just need **** loads of sanding. I've tested the access and I'm very happy with it. This is only a very rough shape, I want to make the neck a lil bit thinner and give more accent to some lines... I'm gonna wait a week or so to the neck stabilizes after the carving before giving radius to the fretboard, so I will continue with the top carve in the next days. No more mystery, the thing is almost done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 Sublime. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Thanks!! ^^ I'm thinking on some trans-black finish, but not sure if I could pop up the grain of this alder... I was planning to paint in black, then sanding to keep the grain darker, and finally apply some liquid black stain... kinda grey. But everything will be done by hand, so I have to make some tests before. Let's see. BTW, I got flamed only on one side of the neck, in the opposite side the maple is mostly clear, which is a shame... Thanks for watching! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Classy work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 It most certainly is. A product of patience and deliberate action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Hi there! Thanks for comments!... and sorry for the delay, I have been the hell busy. Started with the top carve. I thought it would be quick, but it's getting really complicated. It's not easy for me to get that straight plane in the bevel, but step by step it's getting shape. I've mostly used rasp, files, blades and sand paper... It took some days to do this. First I shaped it roughly with the rasp... And then started to fine tuning the bevel... I have to create a plane without screwing up the edges in both sides. Big deal... It looks like it is done, but it isn't... mostly used my fingers to check out the flatness of the whole bevel. And this is turning in a never ending story... This is the current state, after 3 days of work... still work in progress. I got some weird figure in the grain, so trans-black is a no-no right now... but there's still the possibility of painting only the top in black. @SwedishLuthier: I must admit that, eventually, I was not so sure about making something different from your model, but I think I got it... what do you think? Thanks for watching! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 For something that is essentially a flat slab guitar, this thing has a ton of carving and contouring all the while keeping crisp edges. How is that alder to work? I've not ever worked it. Does it carve, rasp, sand and scrape easily or does it have some quirks you have to look out for? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 How is that alder to work? I've not ever worked it. Does it carve, rasp, sand and scrape easily or does it have some quirks you have to look out for? This is the second body I make in alder.. I've mostly chosen it because the weight, it is stupidly light, like cedar or so. It's easy to work, not really hard... and yes, sometimes is tricky. I had problems while carving the access with the gouge - you probably remember - and had some surprises while scraping with the blade. You have to follow the grain and be careful, so I think is a matter of getting the grips with it. For a solid color finish, I would recommend it. Also relatively cheap. It has a drawback: tends to crack once it's worked, due to wood adaptation. Here's an example of the cracking. This is supposed to be a brand new guitar, Fender doesn't really care about: I'm planning to finish this guitar with oil, but never used it before... I was peeking in youtube and found the danish oil like a good option for finishing, even with stained tops, but not sure what I can found here in the hardware shop. Maybe some of you guys could share your experiences with oil finishes and give some advice, would be really appreciated. The plan is paint the top in solid black, maybe some water based paint, and then apply the oil... what do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Alder is creamy soft. Denty though. Don't drop yer hat or hammer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Danish oil will give zero dent protection and needs to soak into the wood so would not do well over paint. I've used it on a lot of carvings and like it alot for that. I've only used oil--teak oil which is very similar--once on a guitar and that was on my last "not yer normal SS" build. I used very hard woods so dent protection was not as important. It looks great but does not protect against moisture very well. Sweat from my forearm has raised the grain in that area. It looks the same from the front but that area has a matte surface now when viewed from the side and you can feel it. Maybe I did it wrong, has anyone else noticed that when using oil? On the other hand I used Spanish Cedar on another guitar and found it nearly impossible to not dent while working that. I finished it with nitro and that has given it great protection so far....nary a dent one. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Haven't heard of grain raise on an oil-finished instrument, but I'm not a particularly sweaty person, and my gigging days are long gone now. Could also be down to a number of factors too - number of coats applied, pore density of timber, hardness of timber, the way it was applied... IME not all danish oils are created equally. Even the same product by a single manufacturer changes when they decide to tweak the formula. I used to use Cabots danish oil until the recipe changed and suddenly it wouldn't go on using my usual method without turning into a gummy, lumpy mess. I've settled on Rustins danish oil for now. Most people seem to use a wet flood coat on the first application, leaving it to settle for 10-15mins, rub out the excess, followed by subsequent lighter rub in/rub out coats with a light sand in between each coat. I've found that after the initial flood coat you need to rub out the surface every few minutes as excess oil tends to ooze up out of the pores for a while, particularly in open pored timbers. If they're left to dry on the surface you end up with little tiny flecks of solidified oil that will have to be sanded out. Wet sanding the oil with 600+ grit is another method that helps push the oil and slurry mix into the timber pores for a smoother finish. Surface protection is minimal (heat, water, abrasion, dents), but minor blemishes are easy to fix without having to strip the whole thing down and refinish. Despite this I much prefer the look and feel of oiled timber over uber-glossy finishes. The minimal tool and workshop requirements, and a dunderhead-proof method of application suits my personal situation too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Thanks for the comments! I have to see which kind of finishes I can find in the shop and then decide... I feel my last guitars a lil bit sticky, mostly used nitro and 2-compund poly. And the raw maple neck feels so nice as it is now that I thought it would be cool to give oil, at least to the neck... about the body, I will see... I want a solid black at least on the front, so maybe I have to finish it in the traditional way. Not sure if i can find nitro here, either poly (both are not produced anymore) so I will feel like a noob for sure. I'll keep you informed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 I'm not sure those are cracks in alder. I've used it a number of times and haven't had that issue. I do see those markings though like in the Fender picture. Not sure what they are, but when I've seen them they have not been cracks but part of the grain detail of the wood.Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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