Prostheta Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 It's a nice idea. I think it has room for improvement, but as a basic throw-together idea it's sweet and simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 It's good to see some further progress on this, @Norris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2k Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 12 hours ago, Norris said: They are not so much structured classes as regular (once a week for 2 hours) workshop time with some experts and basic luthiery tools on hand. It's a privately run class, using a school's wood workshop. It's very relaxed, you can go at your own pace and get plenty of advice. Many of the "students" have been going for years Sounds like a really cool way to work on this. Expert knowledge if you need it, shop time and tools even if you don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 7 hours ago, a2k said: Sounds like a really cool way to work on this. Expert knowledge if you need it, shop time and tools even if you don't. Yes, I'm very fortunate to have the classes quite so close to home.too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) So I finally bound the fretboard last night The mummy awakes... Unfortunately although I got the corners nice & tight, it got a little loose on the bottom radius The rear... ... looks worse than the top... ... and the radius isn't quite even. I'll wait until I have scraped it down a bit before I decide what to do about that - if anything. I might be able to gently prise it off the board enough to get the radius even, then use dust & CA to fill the gap. Anyway, this is the glue I used (as recommended by my instructor) - Weld-On. It's more like polystyrene cement than CA, but is just as runny (as you can tell from the state of the board now!). I have a week off work next week (and the wife hasn't! ), so hopefully I can get things moving along a bit. Edited October 15, 2017 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 great read @Norris! question: did you first route the top and body in the exact same shape? or did you do a rough cut on the top and then routed it after glueing to the body? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Dust and CA will look bad if you try and backfill gaps; lighter woods darken considerably, so I would recommend the glue or acetone. Do bear in mind that these will soften the binding a LOT so take care not to dent or deform it. Taping pressure shouldn't be overly-localised and super-tight. You can melt binding scraps in acetone to produce a glue paste, however I find this can be as unsightly as a glue/Maple backfill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 It might look bad now, however it'll reveal itself nicely once you start scraping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, 10pizza said: great read @Norris! question: did you first route the top and body in the exact same shape? or did you do a rough cut on the top and then routed it after glueing to the body? I used the template to flush trim the back piece, then glued on the rough cut top & used the back as a guide to flush trim it Edit: I did draw around my template onto the rear side of the top to help align it with the bottom piece. And thanks. It's a bit rambling & very slow progress (or so it seems to me), but gives a "warts & all" account of my first build, including a lot of my thought processes & blind alleys as I go Edited February 9, 2016 by Norris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 1 hour ago, Prostheta said: It might look bad now, however it'll reveal itself nicely once you start scraping. Yes - time to buy some cabinet scrapers & learn how to burnish them! You never know, it may look a bit better when it's tidied up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 I think I did a post on this years back. Instead of using cabinet scrapers, take a Stanley knife blade and a long screwdriver. Mark an X on one side of the blade, then draw it over the shaft of the screwdriver at 45° in inclination and angle from the shaft, from one end of the blade to the other. This turns over a hook on the blade making it into a very fine controllable scraper. Perfect for cleaning up headstocks, volutes, binding and tight areas. I need to write this back up I think.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 23 hours ago, Prostheta said: I think I did a post on this years back. Instead of using cabinet scrapers, take a Stanley knife blade and a long screwdriver. Mark an X on one side of the blade, then draw it over the shaft of the screwdriver at 45° in inclination and angle from the shaft, from one end of the blade to the other. This turns over a hook on the blade making it into a very fine controllable scraper. Perfect for cleaning up headstocks, volutes, binding and tight areas. I need to write this back up I think.... Great tip, @Prostheta. I've used Stanley knife blades as scrapers and I've become quite adept at burnishing cabinet scrapers....but I've never thought to burnish a Stanley knife blade! Good progress, @Norris. Look forward to seeing the progress from your week of uninterruptions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 I've always termed it as "turning a hook". Burnishing, yeah. I prefer being more descriptive since the traditional terms often leave the uninitiated feeling confused and left out. Remember to mark an X so you know which direction you turned it....you can feel it with your fingers and see it in the light, but we never have those at the best of times do we? haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) I had a week off work and made a bit of progress. I've quite a lot to update, so I'll try to keep it short. I started off by routing the binding rebate around the body - allowing for the drop top carving to come. Then I set about sorting out the headstock - which is holding up the rest of the neck First I created a template from card, to the existing size of the headstock And marked out the thickness of my binding Then I used a craft knife to cut the template down and then used that to cut out the veneer I knew I'd find a use for that gadget that lurks in the back of the kitchen cupboards. I steamed the veneer for an hour Then used the clamping caul that I made a few weeks ago to clamp it into shape overnight I held it in position with a couple of tacks - I drilled holes in the caul to match & allow for a bit of adjustment (Yes I know the pin in the end position is a little short of the mark!) Then I applied a bit of titebond Edited October 15, 2017 by Norris Fixed broken image link (well I tried to - you'll have to imagine the obligatory clamp shot!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) A little bit of fettling with cabinet scrapers Then I trimmed a rebate into the top, glued in some binding & scraped it down Then could finally set about binding the headstock This was using the offcut from the fretboard binding, cut on the bandsaw - lucky it was pretty much perfect height. It also involved a lot of use of Mrs Norris' hairdryer to heat the binding & make it more flexible It blended quite well at the top And then scraped down, we are up to date The fretboard binding should match nicely when it is glued, trimmed & scraped I'm quite pleased with myself about that. It should look great when the veneer is dyed Edited October 15, 2017 by Norris 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 Nice job, @Norris. Very nice job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 Wow, I don't think there's much more to add than what @Andyjr1515 said. That. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) Thanks. The neatness of the work is down to this rather nifty birthday present from my wife. I may look a prat, but can see what I'm doing! The glass lenses are steamed up a bit as they had been in the garage overnight Edited October 15, 2017 by Norris 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 I was wondering what kind of wife would buy their husband an eye steamer. Revenge for the rice cooker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 12 hours ago, Norris said: I'm quite pleased with myself about that. It should look great when the veneer is dyed As well you should be. Very well done. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) A minor update from last night's class. I spent about an hour filing the truss rod adjuster hole - not much to show. However then I spent about 15 minutes drilling 6 holes that have transformed it from a plank of wood into a neck I'll press the ferrules in properly later during the final fit First trial fit of the Kluson tuners and they line up, no gaps - result! Thanks for your kind comments . Back to the usual glacial pace of progress now though I'm afraid Edited October 15, 2017 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Steady as she goes, number one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Great progress @Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 (edited) Not much done this week, as it's been busy with other real-life stuff Anyway I did clean out the binding glue from my fret slots. I thought you might like to see the tool I made from an old craft knife to do it It would also be useful if the slots were not quite deep enough, as it's a very effective scraper. I ground off the bevelled edge completely, rounded off the tip, then used my smallest Dremel grinding wheel to put in the hook. A quick few wipes with some wet & dry paper to de-burr it, and it's ready for use - with a ready made handle Edited October 15, 2017 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 Cheap tool and effective....better than spending the ridiculous amount that they cost as a commercial product.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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