Tru-oil curing - how to remove wiping streaks

[madhattr88]

After 11 coats of tru-oil, everything is nice and flat, however, you can see the wiping marks/streaks on the flat surfaces.

Its been curing for 8 days...probably wait another 8.

Do you think a good rubbing of 3M Finesse It-II will remove them?   Burlap maybe???

If not, what will???   I don't want to go buff/polish.sand thru the top layer of tru-oil.

 

Thanks!

 

[verhoevenc]

I like my tru-oil satin so I use a synthetic 0000 steel wool (grey color) and then the next step up they have (white color... don't know the grit).

Chris

[madhattr88]

11 minutes ago, verhoevenc said:

I like my tru-oil satin so I use a synthetic 0000 steel wool (grey color) and then the next step up they have (white color... don't know the grit).

Chris

thanks, but i'm looking for a gloss look.

[ScottR]

I'd start with a good rubbing/polishing compound hand rubbed and see how it does. Is that what that 3M Finesse It-II is?

If that doesn't do it, then micromesh, starting in the middle grades.

SR

[madhattr88]

6 minutes ago, ScottR said:

I'd start with a good rubbing/polishing compound hand rubbed and see how it does. Is that what that 3M Finesse It-II is?

If that doesn't do it, then micromesh, starting in the middle grades.

SR

that's what Finesse-It II is suppose to do.  I've been searching the internet for any info on polishing tru-oil.

[mattharris75]

I've had luck getting rid of streaks in Tru Oil using micromesh, in the distant past.

 

 

[ScottR]

I have yet to use it on any builds but I did a finishing test with tru-oil a few years back. I took a small plank of spalted pecan and sanded it and prepped it like I would a guitar body and finished it with tru-oil. I used the slurry pore filling method to see how that worked. I differed from your builds in that I applied it pretty heavily. The slurry method does some leveling anyway and I planned to level and polish it up like I would lacquer, with micromesh. And I did and it worked great. I did a final rubdown with some polishing compound....TurtleWax probably and it polished up just as glossy as lacquer. What I didn't know at the time was that it takes a few weeks to cure. I got more pore shrinkage because of that.

SR

[madhattr88]

 

Just a follow up.   i used 3M Finesse-It II and it worked great. 

here u can see the dried streaks from wipin

 

and then the final product after Finesse -IT

 

[ScottR]

Good to hear!

BTW that is a killer build. I don't recall you using a quilt top layer in that body style before.

SR

[madhattr88]

thanks!!!    Not a stained one anyway.

[Andyjr1515]

That's a lovely finish and great looking guitar 

[madhattr88]

16 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

That's a lovely finish and great looking guitar 

thanks!!!!   believe or not, the more i look at this thing i don't like the finish.  Tru-oil brings out the grain depth, but since i polished it with Finesse-It, its too shiny.  Almost like its wrapped in plastic wrap.  Not what i want.  So i'm gonna scotchbrite the whole thing and use Birchwood Casey Sheen and Conditioner and then their wax.

[Andyjr1515]

16 hours ago, madhattr88 said:

thanks!!!!   believe or not, the more i look at this thing i don't like the finish.  Tru-oil brings out the grain depth, but since i polished it with Finesse-It, its too shiny.  Almost like its wrapped in plastic wrap.  Not what i want.  So i'm gonna scotchbrite the whole thing and use Birchwood Casey Sheen and Conditioner and then their wax.

I find that Tru-oil tends to settle down to a slight sheen over time in any case...although that sometimes takes a while.  I tried the BC Sheen and Conditioner once but it is quite high grit...for mine it resulted in matte rather than satin.  Some of the auto polishes are a bit more gentle.   I haven't tried following the BC with wax and that might make the difference.  I'll follow the progress on this with great interest

Edited January 12, 2016 by Andyjr1515

[madhattr88]

here is is after i used scotchbrite to knock it back.  I applied the sheen and conditioner to  half the top and half the back for comparison.

the wax is in the mail.  should get it this week.  i'll post again after i apply it.

can anyone give me some advice on using shellac as a sealer coat over the stain and pore fill?  i've notices small "splotchy" areas on the stained surface.  i'm wondering if i didn't knock back the shellac enough.  i was scared of sanding through..  anyone use shellac as a sealer?  how many coats?  what lb cut? do u sand it?  what grit?

 

[madhattr88]

i got the wax in the mail.  did not like it at all