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2016 Builds Of KEA


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  • 2 months later...

well, i am back, yet again.
It was a great break. I honestly just got bored. I didnt even really want to try anything again. I spent a lot of time just cleaning my shop, organizing and trying to get rid of stuff i didnt need or didnt want.
After doing that for a couple months i started to get the desire back. This time it is much more casual. No real urgency to build like before. I think that has helped me be more relaxed about it.

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Thanks guys. I dont know why photobucket rotated the pictures??

I have a giant stack of bodies that i have been gluing up the past week. I think i am up to 8. I really enjoy that part. Wish i could make money off of that!

 

 

1 hour ago, MiKro said:

Looking good Billy Ray, Feeling Good Luis. :)

Good to see you still building Luis. 2016 builds are great!!

Always,

your friend,

Mike

Good to see you are still around Mike. Great to hear from you.

 

 

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I know what I'd do with that quilt, but that's just me you know? I value the movement in the figure so I do everything I can to maintain and work with the chatoyance rather than against it. I'd go oil-shellac for the Maple, maybe the same for the Mahogany also. Tru-Oil springs to mind since I love my Sapele bass finished with that.

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3 hours ago, Prostheta said:

I know what I'd do with that quilt, but that's just me you know? I value the movement in the figure so I do everything I can to maintain and work with the chatoyance rather than against it. I'd go oil-shellac for the Maple, maybe the same for the Mahogany also. Tru-Oil springs to mind since I love my Sapele bass finished with that.

That is what i was considering as well. I know some danish oil would really bring out that deep quilt. So tough of a chioce!

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That's your call of course. I've never really been impressed with any of the "Danish" oil products I've come across. Your own experience and product availability will differ from mine. Some are made with linseed/flax and others with Tung. I'm sure that most of them would bring out the figure nicely and deepen the Mahogany. I guess that I don't like how they are designed as a product to be used on their own....I've had more success out of combining simpler products, but again, you know me. Fiddle farting with the recipe! I got a super nice result on burled Birch using oil saturation followed by dark wax. The same kind of thing with raw cold press linseed and shellac. Danish oil type products always seem more "furniture" or turning end use than a guitar. To me anyway.

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Depends on the product I guess. If it's solvent-rich then the surface tension will be lower, hence the higher degree of perceived penetration. I'm not sure if that equates to more product working its way in though. When I was testing the oils on the Visäkoivu for the Orgasmatron bass, the Liberon Finishing Oil was definitely that way. All solvent and no product. It penetrated easily but didn't give the happy oil fun times that the raw linseed did.

From a casual perspective, this conversation about oily penetration and fun times is probably not that well thought out, or in fact intended. I'll take the odd "fnar".

Tru-Oil can be cut with solvents for the initial flood coats so it can be laid into a thicker finish later. You just can't do that if the solvents are already part of the mix. Again, being a control freak I get pissed off when companies do my thinking for me and sell me product that is mostly cheap solvents than actual "stuff". :D

That Liberon Finishing Oil is hella expensive, and perhaps more suited to wood turning than anything I think. It definitely feels like that is what it would be better at than workpieces like an instrument. Applied off the lathe kind of thing.

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You would know much better than I.
I just remember when i used tru oil, it was too much like an actual clear coat. Took forever to dry, left a ton of marks from application and didnt look much better than an oil finish. Purely user error though. Ive seen what people do with tru oil. I just never learned how.

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I recall you mentioning that, and I thought it was weird at the time. Tru-oil is pretty forgiving outside of certain methods of application. I think you might do well to give it another chance, but change up your approach. Shame you got put off it the first time around. User error, maybe. It's definitely a product to learn your way around though, yes.

I only know as much as my test pieces have told me....!

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I've got nothing against a couple of rubbed coats of shellac between the clear and oil, it would only enhance the depth of the figure, and go a ways toward filling the fine maple pores. It makes a lovely finish as well, but I'd shy away from it in that respect for a guitar. Shellac doesn't play well with water and guitars players tend to sweat......

SR

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