10pizza Posted June 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 Just now, Tekkelenburg said: Zie je weinig zo'n tele met floyd! Wel erg gaaf! dank je! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 13, 2016 Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 Being able to make good working templates improves the end product by a magnitude in scale. I trouble myself thinking about how to set a perfect radius on weird angled corners for example....but that's important isn't it? I hope so....hahaha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted June 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 As I'm making some progress lately and I've got a nice piece of birdseye maple I'm thinking of making this a complete build in stead of re-using the Ibanez neck as planned. I'm not too big a fan of the Wizard -profile neck. Since this will be my nr 1 build, I'd like it to be to my preferred specs! got to get me a nice piece of rosewood for the fingerboard and a nice inlay design. Looks like this project will be running a bit longer...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 Sounds excellent! This is where it gets silly fun. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted June 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 some advice needed: The plan is to finish with Tung-oil. Should I first use grain filler or not? will the tung oil finish be hard enough to protect from quick dents? thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 15 minutes ago, 10pizza said: some advice needed: The plan is to finish with Tung-oil. Should I first use grain filler or not? will the tung oil finish be hard enough to protect from quick dents? thanks! Zebrano has open grain but I guess it depends on the finish you want to achieve. I grain filled mine and it's very smooth and the wipe on poly gives a nice sheen to it. Not sure if tung oil is good enough as a protective finish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 It depends on how you apply the oil and whether it is actually "true" Tung or not. Lots of polymerising oils are great for sanding into the wood as part of the initial application. The oil and wood dust create a light slurry which packs into the pores. This is when finishing is very much a hands-on process (no joke intended) and becomes an extension of the finish sanding. A filler is a bit of a shortcut and fine if you're happy doing it that way. Maybe a bit unnecessary. I've never finished with Tung myself. I prefer Linseed and lighter penetrative oils. Oils don't tend to provide a lot of resistance to denting, etc. however that's also part of what makes them great to work with; they can be touched up and cared for with time. Things like wear become part of a natural patina. Polymerising oils that set up a bit of thickness (such as those with spar varnish added) are more resistant, however they are more akin to lacquers than oils in my book. Oils are more penetrative finishes with a light film to me. Tru-Oil for example, builds. Linseed doesn't. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted June 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 so,it looks like I'm going to have more time to build.. Just been laid off........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 Damn, I'm sorry to here that man!! Times are hard right now, we've laid off about 70% of our staff in the past year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted June 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 thx @2.5itim , you always know it can happen, but when it does it's still a bit surreal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 Oh man, sorry. That's just shitty luck. I got hit by that many years back and it hurt deeply. I can't quite let that resentment go. Have you got a plan going forward (other than more running, skiing, etc)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 it sucks, but it gives me opportunity to think about what to do next. Might start my own business in consulting and combine that with guitarbuilding and repairs. next week I'll be putting some more time in my guitarproject, that will help. Looking forward to getting more progress and start my first neck project. I got a nice piece of birdseye maple. Trying to get two neck blanks out of it, but it will have to be by some economic sawing. a question: at what time do you thin the neckbase to the right depth for the neckpocket? at start, or when shaping the neck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 It all depends on the order you work in, and the specifics of the build. If the heel is going to be straight into the pocket, I try and thickness it to that early. You can do it later of course. There's no one time you "have" to do it. Whatever works best or seems most logical is usually right. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5itim Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 i thickness my blank to what I want the heel thickness to be so mine is done from the beginning. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Spent a day in the workshop last monday and got my body (almost) done: trem backcavity route electronics cavity route recessed cavity cover from Zebrano recessed tremcavity route drilled electronics channels rounded body edges I did the tremcavity at an angle to make sure I didn't cut through to the bridge pickup cavity. put a piece of scrap beneath my template to get the necessary angle. Today I'll receive my jack and jack-ring so I'll know what diameter holes to drill for that. Also I'll receive my finishing oil today, so I can start working on the finish after that. Yesterday I received my trussrod for the neck. Today my rosewood should come in. Next monday I've scheduled another day at the shop to start work on the neck. It will be a tele-style headstock to match the body, but ofcourse with a top-lock for the edge trem. I'll re-use the gotoh-tuners from my Ibanez neck. for the neck shaping I still need to find me an affordable rasp. some pictures of progress: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 That looks VERY good.. Good by any standards, let alone a first build 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Very nice! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 thanks guys. First time takes a lot of time, but you learn a lot, so next one will be easier/quicker I guess. some lessons learned: don't overdo on the doublesided tape get a shorter router bit with bearing for the next project for those recesses route in very small passes with mahogany be patient, be very patient 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Equally, don't under-do the double-sided tape! A template slipping is far worse. I couldn't agree more about using many small passes and having shorter bits. The disasters that people end up forced into when using a big 1" long bit in the absence of a better choice can kill a project in its tracks. I wish I could be less patient by choice. I love working and I hate sitting on my hands. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 3 hours ago, 10pizza said: for the neck shaping I still need to find me an affordable rasp. My Shinto rasp was quite reasonably priced and is a joy to use. It made short work of the rough neck carving before I moved onto scrapers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 thanks @Norris read some good stories about that one so I just ordered one online. Reasonable price, shipping makes it a bit more expensive, but I hope to forget that once I start working with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Affordable, definitely. They're a mile better than machine-struck rasps, but nowhere near as good as a proper hand-struck rasp. They don't have a convex surface though, so you will have the same difficulties that @SIMpleONe89 has with his neck carving. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Yup they're definitely worth for the low price so do try them out. One complain I have is the handle is too small and my hand gets tired after a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Do you use the palm of your left hand over the top of the rasp? That is a grip I use a lot, otherwise definitely. Applying working pressure with one hand becomes tiring easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 That looks to be very clean work there. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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