Jump to content

Orf With 'Is 'Ed!


Recommended Posts

@curtisa, sorry to back track a page - thanks for the link to the articles, they are a much appreciated (and excellently produced) resource! I will be following your CNC guide quite closely once I get the new toy! 

I was assuming that I would need to come up with a method for two passes in any case. I suppose you could code in a marker to each pattern (which cuts off the work piece) to line up each set-up. Good to know that the 3020 is sufficient for most things. It certainly makes more sense in terms of bench real estate and cash up front!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Stavromulabeta said:

@curtisa, sorry to back track a page - thanks for the link to the articles, they are a much appreciated (and excellently produced) resource! I will be following your CNC guide quite closely once I get the new toy! 

I was assuming that I would need to come up with a method for two passes in any case. I suppose you could code in a marker to each pattern (which cuts off the work piece) to line up each set-up. Good to know that the 3020 is sufficient for most things. It certainly makes more sense in terms of bench real estate and cash up front!

Good to hear you're finding it useful. There will be further 'episodes' which should provide more detail to the processes involved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

A neck with no headstock means there's nowehere to put the logo in the usual spot. The most common place I've seen them go on headless builds is above the neck where it meets the body, so that's where we'll slap it on. The CNC being too small to accept the full width of the body means I have plan ahead and mill the logo before the top gets glued up:

20160320_135758.jpg20160320_135858.jpg20160320_140022.jpg20160320_142411.jpg

Then rough cut and insert a pair of strategically-placed brads to prevent the top slipping around while gluing:

20160325_140916.jpg

And clamp the bejesus out of it, taking care not to apply pressure over the chambers:

20160325_142707.jpg

Trim the excess on the router table:

20160326_125011.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just on eBay. I gave them a stress test to make sure they weren't going to give me grief later on, and the spoke adjuster only has 5 holes which means the notch at the end of the fretboard needs to be a bit wider than I'd hoped, but otherwise they seem OK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rockin' builds so far! I really need to get to my headless idea soon too! Will be really interested to hear more about these Mera headless pieces. 

Out of curiosity. What size offset did you find worked well for the male vs. female parts of the inlay?

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Chris.

2 hours ago, verhoevenc said:

What size offset did you find worked well for the male vs. female parts of the inlay?

Zero offset, arrived at by trial and error. There must be just enough eccentricity in my spindle to make it work without having to do any additonal toolpath offsetting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since I don't have a CNC available to me, I do wonder whether this is something one might accept as being "the personality" of a certain machine and/or spindle, and whether working whilst bearing its eccentricities in mind is part of general working practice at the level we use them at. Either that or whether it's something we need to rattle out as part of setup and maintenance. Slight amounts of slop in any work - when recognised and quantifiable - can be accepted as fit for purpose, or at least factored into whether we can achieve what we're aiming for.

This is pretty obvious though,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wouldn't surprise me if that were the case. The unit I have is certainly only built to a certain price point, so I have to accept that it isn't ultra-precise in its fit and accuracy as a CNC costing 4 or 5 times as much. Could also be that multiple passes at ever-increasing depth of cut in certain materials will also change the fit of an inlay into its corresponding pocket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very true. It's the old difference between accuracy and tolerance at play again, maybe. Still, it seems an awfully consistent offset that Chris is experiencing. Having a tenon that is too large and a pocket too small smacks of cutter sizing issues. I think (without scrolling back up) Chris mentioned something like 0,02" of slop? That can easily be a symptom of a cutter being 0,005" undersize. Not that much. The sidewalls of the pocket will be under 0,005" each and the tenon over by the same amount. I'd be willing to put a pint bet on that, or at least the nearest Metric equivalent (plus minus a little).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...