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How do you shape your necks/fingerboards?

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Usually I first cut the form of the neck out of the wood with a bandsaw. Then I plane/sand the edges until they are a little proud of the final size. Then I do the same with the fingerboard. Now I shape the back contour of the neck. Then I glue the fingerboard to the neck. And now I shape the edges of the whole neck to the final shape together with the fingerboard. This works very well, but I wonder how you match the fingerboard to the neck, as I often read it is a good idea to bring the fingerboard to final shape and then use it as a router template for routing the neck itself. I don't have a long enough router bid at the moment, so I wonder if I should buy one and try that method....

Thanks in advance,

Marcel Knapp!

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i actualy held back, i wanted to see what other people said first

plane neck blank,

**angle back headstock

slot then attach fingerboard,

**establish headstock thickeness for flat fender style head stocks

ruff the shape on my scroll saw (i really need a bandsaw)

use straight edge rails to tapper neck with router (working on templates)

radius fingerboard

sand the heastock shape


shape back

level frets

polish & finish

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We rout the neck taper to 1/16" of final size first, then glue the fingerboard on. When the glue is dry trim the fingerboard close with the bandsaw, the sand to final size with the long beltsander. then shape the back with the Pinrouter and a really large roundover bit to get close to the correct back shape, then finish on the flap sander and hand sand

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Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars

I go a litlle big with 2 straight edges on the neck blank at end and nut width. Then route with top bearing template bit. Truss rod installed. Glue on FB and route with bottom bearing template bit. Shape profile o finl shape with plane, spokeshave, rasp, and sandpaper. The FB is usually already readiused at this point

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woopse, forgot it was about shaping the back, I use a 12" belt to get a ruff thickness taper from 1 - 12 frets, use a spokeshave and a scraper, i get the radius i want at the 1st and 12th fret then just play connect the dots, using the spokeshave and a hand sander, lastly scrape of with some 80 grit i shape the volute, and heel, finaly sand with 150-220 grit..

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No answers? I thought you all build guitars....:D

I tried to answer this morning, but my internet was a little messed up. I usually start out with the neck blank, if needed I true up the fingerboard gluing surface, rout the truss rod channel well the sides are still square, cut headstock angle, if needed and sand flat on sander. The fingerboard I sometimes profile and use that as a routing template, or I glue on the rough fingerboard and use an actual routing template. The fingerboard is slotted before it goes on, but I HATE doing that, LMI sells then pre-slotted, i might start doing that. When I glue my fingerboards on, I use alignment pins to hold the board in place, usually the pins are in fret slots, I install the truss rod, and I also mask off the truss rod cavity when I apply the glue. Once the glue is dry I cut out the head stock and cut off the excess on the sides and back of the neck. I then rout the sides flush with the pattern or fingerboard, and rout out the headstock to final shape. I then thickness the headstock on my belt sander, and if needed I thickness or apply an angle to the heel. I then thickness the back of the neck on the drum of my belt sander, and first off gouge out large portions of the back while holding the neck at about 45*, then when a new corner is formed from the 45* cut I remove those corners and so on until the neck becomes rounded, then it's on to hand sanding with 120 until it feels right. For fingerboard radiusing I now have a large belt sander and radius gauges for doing that.

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Glue an inlaid, bound and slotted fretboard to neck blank. Headstock alreay cut to angle.

Cut neck profile, then sides, to suit required "square" shape. Shape volute and trim headstock thickness. Then file and rasp neck shape at the heel and nut. Spokeshave between these points. Hand sand with 120 grit, and leave until ready to start finishing

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today i work my neck.. mahogany & ebony FB

i use bansaw. rough saw ebony.. and use masking tape..

and use bice ? T_T

and use planner. nut 42mm 24Fret 56mm

my pic is not rule.. it is my neck making method..









thank you.. have nice weekend...

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That sure is some pretty birdseye maple :D

I wanted to clarify one thing in my original post. the reason I rout the profile 1/16" large before gluing on the fingerboard is because I slot the boards before gluing them on and the router sometimes tears the wood out at the fret slots so I trim the board with the bandsaw then sand to final taper

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i'am glue fingerboard...


this FB is soltt.. 24Fret , and finger board is ending size..

next day.. i make radious, and freeting, and make back..

and neck back make with knife & spokesave...

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First of all I cut the rough neck with a bandsaw (and headstock angle too).

Then I rout the truss-rod channel when the sides are still square, then again I cut the sides. Then I cut the fingerboard, and glue it. After the glue has hardened, I start to shape the back of the neck with rasps and sanding paper. Then I radius the fretboard, put the frets on, and paint :D.

Oh, since I made 3 neck-through guitars, the final shaping of the neck is done with the wings attached... don't know if that's the right way, but works fine for me.

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