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Kemp Guitars - 2016 Build thread


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Custom KM-I carve-top finished - Wenge on Mahogany body, 5-piece Maple/Purpleheart neck, Ebony fretboard, Floyd Rose Original, Schaller M6 tuners, BKP Miracle Man (bridge)/Cold Sweat (neck) and Tru-Oi

Hello ProjectGuitar, Been working on some new design ideas for guitars, nothing too extreme, and I wanted to share the work on which these designs are based. I've been building an assortment of g

I think everyone has their own way of doing it... You look on YouTube, for example, and you come away still asking yourself what's the right way. Initial coats are not wiped off, no. The trick is

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If you showed me that patch of concrete you shot that on, and the "fall" light, for the photo shoot, I would would have said you are crazy, however, it works so well to highlight and contrast the high tech starkness of your V.  Seems almost like something from area 51 just fell out of the sky.  

Great design!  

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3 hours ago, StratsRdivine said:

If you showed me that patch of concrete you shot that on, and the "fall" light, for the photo shoot, I would would have said you are crazy, however, it works so well to highlight and contrast the high tech starkness of your V.  Seems almost like something from area 51 just fell out of the sky.  

Great design!  

I appreciate your comments. I'm not a photographer but with decent (basic) camera technology readily available, I'd certainly not pay someone to do the work. The background is simply my garage floor with light coming in only from the half open door.  I've been using similar for my natural builds - beautiful wood against industrial/commercial concrete - but didn't know if it would work with the painted guitar either.

Thanks :)

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3 hours ago, Pariahrob said:

That v works so well! All your builds look very clean but there's something special about that v. Even if it does have too many strings! Joke. It's ace. I just wouldn't know how to play it!

Thank you, sir :) And I do have to agree with you on the extra strings. I'm a bit more old-school, both as a guitarist and the bands I listen to... 6-strings was perfectly adequate for them (Megadeth, Slayer, Pantera, etc)! I will build ERGs and multiscales, etc on request but not something I'd want in my own collection.

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Something new to look out for in the very near future, amongst other things - my prototype KM-III (with Zebrano top on Ash body). The detailing (edging, etc) is yet to be decided, but probably the chamfered edge seen previously, perhaps with some deeper bevelling in the cutaway...

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3 hours ago, ScottR said:

That Zebrano has more dark stripe coverage than I've ever seen before.....nice!

SR

First time I've used Zebrano. I found a number of tops which were all similar in density/thickness of stripe, the differences I found were how straight and defined the stripes were. This was the best piece available and will be accompanied by Ebony fretboard, Zebrano head plate and black hardware :)

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Zebrano is hugely variable, same as Wengé can be. I have a huge chunk about a metre from here where half is pretty wild and like a crazy detuned TV whilst the other side is relatively uniform and straight(ish). Variable even in the same piece.

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2 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Zebrano is hugely variable, same as Wengé can be. I have a huge chunk about a metre from here where half is pretty wild and like a crazy detuned TV whilst the other side is relatively uniform and straight(ish). Variable even in the same piece.

I nearly bought some flatsawn for a body - it looked almost like Ash with dark stained grain. I can't find the photo now but sadly it was too narrow for a two-piece body.

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3 hours ago, mattharris75 said:

Looks great. Tru Oil on walnut is always a good choice. What was your finishing procedure with the Tru Oil? I like the nice clean satin look you got from it.

Thanks mattharris75. I second that re. Tru-Oil on Walnut. I laid approximately 14-15 coats, the first was a wet sand with thinned oil to start filling the pores. The remaining coats were wet, but not drippy, straight Tru-Oil. Light rub down with wire wool every second or third coat to remove any dust particles. I use a small block of soft foam wrapped in cotton rag to apply. Post-final coat, a fine wire wool pad on a small detailing sander gave me a uniform matte finish which was then lightly waxed (beeswax spray) for a satin sheen.

 

3 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Lovely job.  How do you get on with cocobolo for a fretboard?  I loved the look of the one I did a while ago, but HATED using it!  Sanding the radius was a pure misery :rolleyes:

Thanks Andyjr1515. Yes, as with any oily wood, the Cocobolo was a pain to sand and clogs sandpaper very quickly. Also wore double layer of gloves and good mask as the oil in the wood and dust is an irritant and toxic... I also sealed the fretboard with a few coats of Tru-Oil as soon as the radius was sanded for this reason.

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2 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Interesting. I've never had trouble with Cocobolo beyond the dust, and in the finished item its always seemed more less inert. I guess it's more of a problem if you're already sensitised to it.

From what I understand, it's the oils in the Cocobolo that can cause irritation and not the dust alone that you have to be careful with. I read some stories from woodworkers and carpenters who had some horrible respiratory issues as a result of working with the stuff. That said, there'll be as many people who have no issues after working with it, but having experienced horrible irritation problems from other woods in the past, I didn't want to leave it to chance for the sake of a pair of vinyl gloves and a cheap dustmask.

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Sure. I get a peppery nose and slightly runny eyes, but no breathing issues. That said, I decline from working with it unless I get a really nice piece. Choice this side of the pond seems poorer than it used to be. Where'd you source yours?

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