charisjapan Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 3 hours ago, pan_kara said: good job with the fingerboards. you're planning to give them how long to settle down? Thanks! This cherry seems to be pretty stable, so not too long ... maybe I'll see if there is anything bad happening in a week and trim them down closer to fretboard dimensions. Right now they are 100 cm long and 8 cm (+/-) wide. Then I'll give it another week before final thicknessing slotting, and radius. My neck blank has been 2 weeks and zero movement, and these are the same tree. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 On 13/02/2017 at 0:48 PM, charisjapan said: Lovely work with the boards, but sorry I have to mention - that's the second photo you've posted of a plane resting blade side down. I always lay mine on the side when not in use, to avoid damage 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted February 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 33 minutes ago, Norris said: Lovely work with the boards, but sorry I have to mention - that's the second photo you've posted of a plane resting blade side down. I always lay mine on the side when not in use, to avoid damage Haha! Guilty as charged (I do try to make a habit of backing the blade off) Come to think of it, I had better go make sure the planes are on the till/shelf ... we've had a couple minor earthquakes this past week, and my waxed tools have a habit of wandering around a bit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted February 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 Triple Gaaah~H! Using my table router, I routed the 6.35mm truss rod just fine, then used a 4mm single-blade for the carbon reinforcing rods. BIG Mistake!! It immediately loosened itself in the 12mm-to-6mm chuck sleeve and climbed into the neck. This took all of 2 seconds. Fortunately, it didn't poke through, so I tightened it up and finished the rout, (Lesson #1, do NOT use a sleeve unless you have REALLY cranked down on it AND lubricated it properly) Next, I set up for the second rout, and about 40mm in the bit self-destructed ... I have no idea where the shrapnel went, but very glad it was my lucky day. (Lesson #2, do NOT use a cheapo single-bladed bit, PERIOD) Next day, the HSS spiral end mill arrived (a day late) so instead of the table router, got out the 6mm trimmer. The spiral worked great, but my mind was on other things and I set the depth at 9.5mm instead of the proper 6.5mm. (Lesson #3, Pay Attention, Stupid! ) I had a 4 X 15mm strip of cherry, so sliced a 4mm strip with the table saw. (I know ... not SOP) Titebonded it into the deep rout, and, and made a plug for the accidental plunge. Re-routed everything today, and the MIC spiral bit worked like a charm again, even after getting gunked with Titebond. Cleaned up nice and shiny. I am pleased with this $2 bit ... buying MIC is a toss of the dice, and this particular item was a winner. Finalized the template for the body, it'll look something like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted March 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 Yikes! A week goes by and I'm off Page 1 I am almost done thicknessing the fretboard, the downside is pretty flat, as well as the top of the neck. I have to deepen the truss rod and carbon fiber rod slots ... I knew that would happen. Still got my full 25 mm on the neck, so a Soft-V shape will happen. I spent a little time making a template to make the "Mt. Fuji snowcap" for the headstock. It was (as expected) not easy. There is a bit of a glue line, but not that bad. It is a pretty unmistakable shape, methinks. Will have to take it down to 15 mm before I know what the grain will look like. (The back side is a bit plain, but a clearcoat should help! The white "snowcap" is not as white as I had hoped, but I will just call that dark wood a "shadow." 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 1, 2017 Report Share Posted March 1, 2017 Somehow seemed to have missed this thread. There's some excellent work on show here - I love the first build. Real class. I'm looking forward to the current one being finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted March 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2017 Made a jig to plane down the headstock, 3 steps to 9.5mm. Next made a drill bit guide like Lt. Dave showed in his 1-piece neck tutorial. The 6mm X 200mm wood bit worked well after I waxed the bit and the inside of the guide. Used a belt sander to get the cherry block to 0.5mm from the guide hole. Clamped this in place, and had it all set up (and a bit nervous) then ... the drill battery died. After charging the battery, the guide worked great, and hit the truss rod slot dead center. Mt. Fuji! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted March 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2017 15 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Somehow seemed to have missed this thread. There's some excellent work on show here - I love the first build. Real class. I'm looking forward to the current one being finished Thanks, Andy! How come you get a cool name like "piccolo bass," and I have to live with the dull "short-scale bass?" Isn't there a cooler name for a 30" scale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted March 2, 2017 Report Share Posted March 2, 2017 13 minutes ago, charisjapan said: Very neat! On 01/03/2017 at 8:50 AM, charisjapan said: Yikes! A week goes by and I'm off Page 1 It easily happens . It's fantastic to see so much activity going on - and inspirational too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted March 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2017 This was actually a few days ago ... routed the body to template, then used a 12mm radius roundover. The body has a slight cup upward, so will flatten that next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 2, 2017 Report Share Posted March 2, 2017 1 hour ago, charisjapan said: Thanks, Andy! How come you get a cool name like "piccolo bass," and I have to live with the dull "short-scale bass?" Isn't there a cooler name for a 30" scale? How about a "bijou bass"? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Natural Posted March 2, 2017 Report Share Posted March 2, 2017 1 hour ago, charisjapan said: After charging the battery, the guide worked great, and hit the truss rod slot dead center. Mt. Fuji! Dont you love when stuff works out according to plan? MT FUJI!!! coming along nicely CJ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted March 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 17 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: How about a "bijou bass"? Kinda like that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted March 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 16 hours ago, Mr Natural said: Dont you love when stuff works out according to plan? MT FUJI!!! coming along nicely CJ. Ohhh~ yeahhh~ Thank you, kind sir! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted March 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Today was testing my fretsaw and how it cut the cherry. I used a cutoff that has both heartwood and sapwood, but this particular guitar will have about 95% white sapwood. (I was able to get three more fretboard blanks, two are "two-tone" like this, another mostly white) The board is exactly the same radius as the Stew-Mac 12" and HOSCO 305mm sanding blocks, so I guess the JESCAR frets are pre-bent to a tad smaller radius. Just pressing down with my thumb they match the board, so I imagine they will work just fine pressed in with a caul and using Titebond. I feel I've turned the corner to finishing my first scratch-build ... and already actively thinking about a 6-string! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2k Posted March 6, 2017 Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 That cherry fingerboard is gonna be stunning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 On 3/6/2017 at 4:38 PM, a2k said: That cherry fingerboard is gonna be stunning. Hey a2k, That is not the fingerboard I'll be using for this guitar, just a cutoff I used to test the radius and frets. In fact, that piece became my fret miter! The board I will be using is almost all white sapwood, and will use some dark cherry for the fret marker inlays. As yet, that part is a secret. (which is code for "I haven't decided yet") I cut the fret slots today ... was obsessing about this, and trying to figure out how to do it without spending $300 at Stew-Mac. I came up with using the test fretboard, as it had a radius on top to help me guide the saw. Before anyone says something, I know it's not "the way" to make perfect slots. But I've been eyeballing for a long time, so we'll just see how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 My inlays. Resawed this by hand ... I might invest in a bandsaw someday. (or just go all "Popeye" ) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 1 hour ago, charisjapan said: My inlays. Resawed this by hand ... I might invest in a bandsaw someday. (or just go all "Popeye" ) Lovely job on any terms, but very impressive for hand sawing! How thick are they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 44 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: Lovely job on any terms, but very impressive for hand sawing! How thick are they? Thanks, Andy! 5mm, 8mm, and 5mm from a 30mm board. Lost 12mm from the saw wandering around the burl and knot, as well as a bit of movement after cutting. Those rightward sides have some nice chatoyance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 14 minutes ago, charisjapan said: Thanks, Andy! 5mm, 8mm, and 5mm from a 30mm board. Lost 12mm from the saw wandering around the burl and knot, as well as a bit of movement after cutting. Those rightward sides have some nice chatoyance. That is very impressive. On a 30mm board, I would typically lose 2-3mm one side and 29.5mm on the other with the saw wandering about I can't even cut a medium sized beam in half accurately! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted March 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 Got a bit done on the neck. Carbon fiber rods epoxied in, truss rod fits, headstock shape done. Started carving ... presently a "D" to a "C" and working toward a "C" to a "Soft-V." Beginning to look like a guitar neck ... which makes the work fun, not a chore!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 So got the neck profile into a "C" using #60 sandpaper with little drama, but trying to get a "V" was hard ... until I broke out my new spokeshave. Wow! The perfect tool for this, IMHO. In just a few minutes I hade a basic profile, easy to see and feel the profile change from "D" at 17th fret, to "C" at 12th, to "Soft-V" from the 7th to 1st. With a 7 mm thick fretboard, I should have a pretty smooth 26 mm at the 17th fret to 25 mm at the 1st fret. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted April 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2017 Three weeks and Page 2! Was laid up with Type B Influenza ... don't get that! A few things done. but little documentation, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted April 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 And a side-by-side comparison shot. Similarities are both are from the same slab of Chinaberry wood, and share basic body dimensions. Differences abound ... 30" and 34" scale ... headed and headless ... cherry/cherry and maple/rosewood neck ... jazz pair and single humbucker ... brass and zero-fret nut. Both are passive electronics, but I imagine they will sound a bit different. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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