ScottR Posted December 21, 2017 Report Share Posted December 21, 2017 55 minutes ago, Pariahrob said: Some work in progress... ...and we'd love to see it. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pariahrob Posted December 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2017 Ha! I can’t seem to upload from my phone or I’d have posted photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pariahrob Posted December 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 Poor course, I’d forgotten I could paste a link! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pariahrob Posted December 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 Today I shielded all the body cavities. I prefer conductive paint to copper film so that’s done and now ontobth fretboard. Only planning a single brass ring at the 12th fret, a bit like the semi hollow I made earlier in the year. Also got an order in for one of my 7 watt amps. The guy doesn’t know what head cab he wants so has left it to me. Not sure myself! ive done a little board shaping on the belt sander. Mostly to save some elbow grease once I start with the beam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoltar Posted December 22, 2017 Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 Which conductive paint do you use Rob? I've been planning on checking out Bare Conductive's 'Electric Paint', but it would be good to get a heads up on any alternatives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pariahrob Posted December 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 I use this. I’ve tried a few and this is best. It’s hard to clean up if you slip but worth a little care.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woden Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 I use the same shielding paint. It stretches really far for such a small bottle. Seafoam with off white sounds awesome. Looking forward to this coming together, Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 25, 2017 Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 All looking good from here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted December 25, 2017 Report Share Posted December 25, 2017 That's the conductive paint I used on my Nozcaster. Minimal hum and nice to use too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pariahrob Posted December 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2017 Thanks! I’m hoping the sfg will look good with the wenge neck too. That conductive paint is great. A tiny bottle goes a long way. In the shop tomorrow so hopefully get some progress on the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pariahrob Posted December 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2017 A little progress Today. Shaped the neck blank. The headstock is rough but the truss rod is in and the board is glued and clamped. moved on the install the trem and a backstop. Nice Wilkinson vintage trem but push in arm and big steel block. I prefer the bent steel saddles too so this has them.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pariahrob Posted December 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2017 Question: just thinking ahead to finishing the neck. Wenge has a tendency to get really dark when oiled but I don’t want a shiny finish so need a solution. I’m thinking a simple wax. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 28, 2017 Report Share Posted December 28, 2017 It's pretty likely that wax will have more or less the same effect as oil. What about the raw PolyX oil that @Andyjr1515 had success with? Maybe the matte or satin will provide better sealing than raw, but with Wengé it's not really necessary. Wipe on, wait a few minutes then buff right off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted December 28, 2017 Report Share Posted December 28, 2017 Wax usually comes in a few different shades. I reckon wax labelled as 'clear' should allow the natural colour of the wenge to remain without getting too murky. I've got a tin of Liberon Black Bison clear wax that worked really well on some bandsaw boxes I made as Christmas presents. The darkening effect is less intense than wetting the timber with water. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pariahrob Posted December 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2017 Thanks for the thought guys. I use renaissance wax for some jobs. Might give that a try. Woukd be nice to keep the open pore feel rather than clog it all up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 29, 2017 Report Share Posted December 29, 2017 Wengé is so open grained that you'd be lucky to even get it slightly blocked up! Haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted December 29, 2017 Report Share Posted December 29, 2017 Poly-X raw contains white pigments. I'm wondering how that would work on darker woods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pariahrob Posted December 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2017 Ha! Yep, wenge is def very open. I’ll head into this morning and do some testing on an offcut. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 29, 2017 Report Share Posted December 29, 2017 Whoa, white pigment?! That's a new one on me. I know from first-hand experience that the satin and matte don't, or at least seem to have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted December 29, 2017 Report Share Posted December 29, 2017 (edited) 44 minutes ago, Prostheta said: Whoa, white pigment?! That's a new one on me. I know from first-hand experience that the satin and matte don't, or at least seem to have. I had a read of their website. There are white pigments to counteract the natural "wet look" of normal finishes. I think it would need very careful and thin application to darker woods. I'm considering a walnut/maple combo on my third build and am keen for the maple to be as light as possible, so might try a bit of experimentation with the raw finish. It won't be for a few months yet though Edit: It says so on the tin... http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil-raw-3044?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6M6t0f-u2AIVjZXtCh0P9QJOEAAYASAAEgLcrfD_BwE (And apologies for the thread hijack Rob!) Edited December 29, 2017 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 29, 2017 Report Share Posted December 29, 2017 Perhaps their thinner PolyX for exotics would be more appropriate in that instance. That said, I'm unsure what sort of final look those have. Matte is certainly very clear, and less glossy than Wengé can be when polished up on its own anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pariahrob Posted December 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2017 @Norris no problem at all. That’s the exact kind of hijack I like. One I can learn from. Ok, so I’ve done a test. Here you can see the neck in its current state. I still need to take a couple of my off the face of the headstock so rubbed a light coat of wax on. It darkened a bit on application but once buffed it lightened up again. Not completely back to natural but near enough. I think it looks great and on more refined surface will be just right. I hope!  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 29, 2017 Report Share Posted December 29, 2017 We're the world's most responsible hijackers. We even return the tables to their upright positions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 30, 2017 Report Share Posted December 30, 2017 Hi all I talked a little about the polyx 3044 in my Psilos bass posts and the more recent walnut rebody of a Rascal.  When I go back onto the desktop I'll post the A/B comparison.  The 3044 has a whitener in it.  Applied thinly ie wiped off after application, it doesn't whiten even ebony, but the slightest thickness it will.  On the walnut, it has also worked well, even though it is specifically designed for light woods such as pine and maple.  BUT on sapele, the pores collect the oil and so you get a slightly milky look.  I think wenge will have the same issue.  I'll post a bit more later this morning to illustrate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 30, 2017 Report Share Posted December 30, 2017 On 28/12/2017 at 7:48 PM, Prostheta said: It's pretty likely that wax will have more or less the same effect as oil. What about the raw PolyX oil that @Andyjr1515 had success with? Maybe the matte or satin will provide better sealing than raw, but with Wengé it's not really necessary. Wipe on, wait a few minutes then buff right off. OK - back on a proper keyboard! Back to Polyx if @Pariahrob is happy with the continued derailment There are the various gloss levels, including: 3065 half-matt; 3032 satin; 3011 full gloss and then there is the specialist 3044 RAW which is the one that has the whitener in. The others mentioned don't have any whiteners although they are all less tinted than Tru-oil. I found that all of them can be used in a 'slurry and buff' method and act as a same-colour grain fill in the same way that tru-oil can.  They need an overnight drying period, so a bit longer than Tru-oil, but after fully drying over a week, they finish MUCH tougher than Tru-oil. For the Psilos, the 3044 RAW was perfect. Here's Tru-oil: And here's 3044 RAW: The ebony, being very tight grained was fine, provided I wiped ALL of it off and just left a wetted surface: The finish was pretty close to the 'standard' 3032 Satin. For the walnut and sapele re-body of the Fender Rascal, I tried the 3044 RAW on a darker wood - not what it was designed for but because the owner wanted to reduce the darkening of the walnut. This was Tru-oil: And this was 3044 RAW: You see the difference most on the upper horn. Although there are two different backgrounds, they were both taken with similar light and camera settings. So - success with this. The back sapele wasn't so good because the whitener pooled in the grain and left a slight milky look - similar to the very early acrylic varnishes:   I finally finished this off with 3032 Satin after just a single application of the 3044 RAW and you can see how it's lessened the effect of the whitener a touch. But what a finish. Silky, silky smooth to the touch and tough as old boots.  So if I was using Polyx on a wenge neck, @Pariahrob , I would personally use the 3032 satin, I would slurry and wipe the first couple of coats to fill some of the excessive pores in the wenge and then slurry and buff with 1000 grit with the polyx, then finish with wipe on /wipe off a couple to three coats to finish. Left a couple of weeks to fully harden, it will be able to be polished up with Meguiars Ultimate Compound (acts like a very very mild t-cut) and you will have a satin neck that is a joy to play and will keep that shredding sweat out of the wood   1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.