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Build 2 - Dan's LP JR Double Cut

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Thanks for the kind comments. That's my second "conventional" truss rod - the next will be a more modern one, mainly because I haven't done one yet :)

16 hours ago, Mr Natural said:

hows that tele (thread hijack ) coming?

Still a lot of sanding to do. I'll obviously post something when I have something worthy of posting :D

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Ah go on, I'll give you a sneak preview of a photo taken on my phone. The SLR shots will follow later 

Last night I turned the guitar into a golf course by drilling 18 holes in it. Tuners, pickups and strap locks. Then sand, sand, sand. That's the last class for this year, so any more short term progre

Bathroom ceiling painted Carpet vacuumed  Hair, fluff, random bits of string (!) cut away from vacuum cleaner brushes  Carpet vacuumed again  Enough brownie points accrued, frets p

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They had the (moldy) balls to email me with an offer to various grades of services today. The third party hosting version was $33 a month...which is roughly $400 a year or $100 less than the original hijack price.

What a bargain.




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  • 3 weeks later...

Let's try an update from my mobile phone...

I glued in the truss rod fillet using epoxy


And the next day took it down to level using a small violin plane followed by a scraper


Edit: Ooh - that went quite well

Edited by Norris
On the big 'puter
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Last night I finished cleaning up the edges of the board using my trusty 80 grit sanding beam, followed by my 180 grit beam. I'm doing a fair bit of sanding on the ebony having got a few chips on the few times I've waved a plane at it. It takes a bit longer but at less risk. I then had to file down the top of the truss rod washer as it was sitting a little proud. There's a thing I should have paid more attention to before gluing in the fillet :)

Finally to round off the evening I made the vertical cut in the headstock plate. The nut will nestle up against it, so it needed to be nice and square. I clamped my set square in place to give me a guide, scored with an xacto-knife, then set about it with one of the nice new Japanese pull saws that my class have bought. I've not used one before, but it was a real joy to use and lovely & accurate


I cut most of the way through the ebony until I could see the mahogany at the edges of the cut, then chipped off the ouffcut with a chisel. Otherwise I'd have been sawing down into the mahogany before the centre of the cut was through. Anyway a chisel carefully applied to the end grain chipped it away no problem - it's what ebony wants to do :D

A little tidying with a cabinet scraper to remove the old Titebond squeeze out that was remaining, and the job's a good 'un


Edited by Norris
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6 hours ago, Norris said:

Anyway a chisel carefully applied to the end grain chipped it away no problem - it's what ebony wants to do :D


That's a fundamental point that I picked up very early on. Know where wood's strengths and weaknesses lay, so you can exploit them. It transformed my approach.

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  • 4 weeks later...

After a couple of weeks "on the shelf" it was time to drag this out again. Not a huge amount of progress, certainly not worth a photo. I trimmed the headstock depth down on the bandsaw, leaving myself about 1mm additional thickness to tidy up. I then squared up my nut and got it down to thickness - the fretboard will butt up against it.

The rest of the evening was some planning. As we are now fitting a neck pickup, that could weaken the neck joint. My tame luthier advised that I do a full mortise & tenon, setting the neck slightly further in than a standard LPJR. This means moving the bridge back by about 15mm, also so that we can get some distance between the pickups. It will have the benefit of not only more contact area on the neck joint, but there should be no need to make a scratch plate to cover the join. Needless to say I'll do plenty of photos of that.

My guitarist ("customer") is out of the country at the moment, so I'll discuss the tweaks with him over Christmas. The guitar building classes have ended for this year now

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17 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Long tenons are great when you can shoehorn one in.

I wish the neck blank had been a little longer. Then I could do a nice long tenon. I've got to try to make as stable a joint as possible with the wood I've got. Of course it might add to the complexity as the fretboard will have to overhang the body slightly - meaning I've probably got to put a slight angle on what would otherwise have been a slab body. That's all to be worked out yet

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49 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

I realise I'm a bit out of date with this.  

There are some very sound skills an techniques on view, @Norris  I think the end product is going to be drool-some :)

Thanks. I still rank as "novice" though :). I have a very good instructor

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  • 5 weeks later...

We're still refining the specs on this. Following the latest discussion:

  • Two P90s
  • Neck to join body at 20th fret for improved neck stability (most twin P90 LPJr-DCs seem to do this)
  • Move the bridge back slightly to accommodate
  • Wraparound compensated bridge
  • No binding on neck
  • No scratchplate

I'm currently routing the body from its rough-cut state, but not worth pictures yet :)

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P90s should give you a good fight at a stable neck anyway by virtue of their shallow routs. Its those silly humbucker things that cause all kinds of problems with neck tenons not usably extending far enough into the body. The lack of pickguard does mean that the tenon has to stop at the end of the P90 rout, otherwise you could take it a long way back.

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3 hours ago, Prostheta said:

P90s should give you a good fight at a stable neck anyway by virtue of their shallow routs.

And they sound bloody good too. You could always....naw never mind, your neck is already a long ways towards being done. There will be no long tenons here.


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