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I'm making me an 8 string.....electric mandolin


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Tru-Oil has similar aspects to shellac or waxes in how you can work and repair the finish though. If the initial layers are applied well, the wood glows and achieves a high potential. Any defects in subsequent layers and the final finish can be repaired and maintained. If anything, that should be part of an ongoing "relationship" with the finish. Many natural finishes benefit from constant care and attention, and the workpiece ages gracefully with that. A complete world away from nuclear-proof catalysed finishes that refuse to play ball when you need to give them a sprucing up.

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Yes, there are many similarities to shellac in the way it works. It will level and polish nicely, I think. I have more experience with nitro, and have to keep the differences firmly in mind when I'm spraying, lest I create more work in the end then I intended.

SR

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I did many layers by hand and then leveled them....because they needed to be leveled. So I got out my airbrush and learned it sprays quite nicely. What I've learned is even though it sets up fairly quickly, it also flows pretty well before setting up. Coats that look too light flow into smoothness. Coats that are heavy enough to look smooth flow into runs.

SR

 

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Kidding of course! I've known for a long time that Tru-Oil can be sprayed on, however I have never taken the time to try doing so myself. Mostly because I like the tactility of a hand-rubbed finish, the control it allows and the deeper glow from slow deliberate work. I guess spray is probably great once the wood surface is saturated and levelled, just to build up a reasonable film on top. I fear runs!

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On 10/7/2017 at 5:09 AM, Prostheta said:

I fear runs!

With good reason!

In trying for a nice transparent burst, I learned that dye hates mineral spirits. And Tru-oil hates alcohol....and I assume water as well, I didn't actually put that one to a test. I was able to use some artist's oil paints and mineral spirits blended with Tru-Oil for a tint, but I wasn't happy with the extreme transparency and the tendency of the thinned oil to run while attempting to build up any pigmentation as a visible burst. I put it down for a day and came back with the idea of spraying a burst of dye and alcohol on the dry oil, letting the alcohol evaporate and continue on with Tru-oil on top of that. Once the alcohol was gone the dye stuck nicely, and frankly that is pretty much what happens when you dye the bare wood and then finish with Tru-Oil...or lacquer too for that matter. Here is the results of that.C00451.jpgC00453.jpgC00456.jpgC00457.jpgC00458.jpg

SR

 

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11 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

Are those a few spots that need knocking back in the top horn?

There are lots of spots that need to be knocked down. I'm going to let it hang and cure for a week before beginning on that. I'll probably open it up by leveling it and let it cure another week before final polishing.

I try to pick burst colors that complement the color of the wood beneath. Recent builds have had tops that tend to look golden when polished so they get amber orangish to reddish brownish bursts. And that surely does match the colors of a fine IPA in a glass held up to the sunlight.:)

SR

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This is entirely why we switch to single malts over winter, what with zero sunlight and all that. :D

Yeah, Tru-Oil benefits from being left a little longer than you expect, and then a bit more. There's nothing worse than going at it, only to find it feeling slightly plastic or worse yet, gummy!

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I spent a little time re-doing the the 5th fret dot as it was sanded to nearly transparent, and then cleaning up the frets and fretboard. I always booger those up somehow...:unsure:

Then I started leveling, slowly, with the intention of going through a few grits of micromesh and then letting it harden for another week. My wife picked up some fall decorating paraphernalia that made a nice backdrop, so I took a few shots with the partially leveled matte finish while I could. It's in the shade with fluorescent lights overhead....so not the best color.

C00494.jpgC00496.jpgC00497.jpgC00499.jpg

SR

 

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