Prostheta Posted October 22, 2017 Report Share Posted October 22, 2017 Abralon pads and Abranet are my favourites also....I use Abranet almost daily at work. The only downside to Abralon is that they round over sharp edges very easily thanks to their conformity. Things like the edges of cavities, drilled holes and the like. For the most part it isn't too much of a problem if ferrules are going in, or that edge is going to be covered. Good idea about the sanding sticks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post seb Posted October 22, 2017 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted October 22, 2017 Good point, I could also observe this, especially at the electronics cavity. I don't like that round over where I want to get sharp edges. Any tricks to mitigate this effect? Guess it should already be helpful to give these regions special attention , i.e. touching them only as little as possible (which probably means excluding the random orbital sander...) Assembly and setup...woohoo! By the way, I took the chance to exhibit more photos in the current GOTM. I'm grateful for any feedback or suggestions! However, there are still a few things to do: fine tuning the intonation compensation of the bone nut tuning of cap switch capacitance (switched via tone pot push/pull) changing the volume pot from linear to log (personal taste) I've also made a time-lapse video of the guitar assembly: ... and this is a proud builder with his new toy: 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eubie Posted October 23, 2017 Report Share Posted October 23, 2017 Love it. That's a great looking guitar. Thanks for the detailed build thread. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted October 23, 2017 Report Share Posted October 23, 2017 Indeed, absolutely top drawer stuff. All machine-borne sandpapers, pads, etc. will round over edges as there is flex in both the mounting pads and the abrasive itself. I use the Mirka DEROS almost daily at work (I promise to review this very soon), and we use the "pad saver" interfaces between the mounting pad and the abrasive. Even with thin Mirka Gold stearated discs, there is a tendency for the pad to conform to shapes and over edges. Mirka Abranet does this a little more, and of course the foam-backed Abralon pads do it a LOT. The two solutions I use: Keep ahold of scrap cut from the workpiece, so that you can place it next to it when sanding. This only prevents angling/tipping over edges, and doesn't help too much with pads conforming and rounding over. Better ROS usage. The machines sand more or less equally from the edge to the centre of the disc, as the orbit is equal at all points. Don't let the machine "hang" over the sides of the workpiece when doing edges. Having maximum pad-to-workpiece contact at all times reduces edge softening. The gold standard is to use a hard sanding block of course. If you specifically require very sharp edges, that's the way to go. In general I think that most of the solution is in improving machine usage. This is entirely why I prefer the 125mm discs over 150mm discs. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woden Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 What a stunning build. Like everyone else, I'm really into how methods and clean design. The pickguard really finishes this off nicely, but it's the contours that make this stand out for me. I was wondering about the headstock logo. Is that a waterslide decal buried under 2K or did you do something else? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seb Posted October 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 Thanks! On 23.10.2017 at 6:45 PM, Prostheta said: Better ROS usage. The machines sand more or less equally from the edge to the centre of the disc, as the orbit is equal at all points. Don't let the machine "hang" over the sides of the workpiece when doing edges. Having maximum pad-to-workpiece contact at all times reduces edge softening. The gold standard is to use a hard sanding block of course. If you specifically require very sharp edges, that's the way to go. In general I think that most of the solution is in improving machine usage. This is entirely why I prefer the 125mm discs over 150mm discs. This was for sure a point I did not think about enough as I used the ROS... but next time, thanks very much! Why ever the sanding block method did not work very well for me this time. Had some issues with big ugly scratches although I've used quality wet sandpaper, soaked it in water (and a drip of detergent) several hours, and took care about not to fold the sandpaper on the sanding block edges. As I've once lacquered a guitar that was no issue... 6 hours ago, Woden said: I was wondering about the headstock logo. Is that a waterslide decal buried under 2K or did you do something else? As you say: waterslide decal under 2K 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woden Posted October 25, 2017 Report Share Posted October 25, 2017 Thanks, Seb. Classy logo you did there. I've just got some decal paper to try out but I'm also experimenting with a laser cut rubber stamp for my signature logo. I figured the stamp gives me as many colour options as I want and it's just a case of finding the right ink/paint to use with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted October 26, 2017 Report Share Posted October 26, 2017 On 10/25/2017 at 1:10 AM, seb said: Why ever the sanding block method did not work very well for me this time. Had some issues with big ugly scratches although I've used quality wet sandpaper, soaked it in water (and a drip of detergent) several hours, and took care about not to fold the sandpaper on the sanding block edges. Chamfer the edges of the block ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 Congrats on the GOTM win!!!! I know it's not formally announced yet, but the voting is stated as closed and you seem to have the most votes so I'm putting two and two together... Superb build and great, great result. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 4, 2017 Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 I know, right? This month was an amazing batch of entries, each with their own unique process and end product. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charisjapan Posted November 4, 2017 Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 Congrats! Beautiful guitar. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Natural Posted November 5, 2017 Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 congrats on the win! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seb Posted November 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 Thanks everybody! :-) Fine tuning of the nut compensation and the electronics are still pending... as usual the last 0.5% to complete the job entirely are waiting weeks and weeks. Anyone familiar with that problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 6, 2017 Report Share Posted November 6, 2017 Well.....yes. But I always claim that it is intentional, that it shouldn't be rushed as the guitar needs to settle in, Instead of, it's just too much fun playing with a new guitar to be bothered with trivial details like that. SR 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seb Posted November 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2017 Sounds convincing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhilly Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 Great build and awesome body shape! I'd love to build one with your shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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