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Singlecut: Domestic--not domesticated!


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The back carve got finished at the same time the neck join was finessed. The faint red mark is the lowest point of the carve over the weight relief chamber. That gets sanded away with the fine meshes that have no chance breaking into the chamber.

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Dying the ash pores. This piece has the elusive, hard to find chain link fence figure.

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Then grain filling with Timbermate ebony black filler.

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The contrast comes back under a finish....

And next we dye the front for the first sandback.

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I had a nice day off yesterday.....and it rained all day, so I spent it in the garage.

I sanded back the darkest dye job with 180 and 220 grit.

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And then dyed it again with burgundy and a bit of orange.

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Sanded that back with 220 and 320.

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Dyed it again with orange and a touch of amber.

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And sanded that back with 320 and 400.

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And then dyed it again with amber and a touch of orange.

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SR

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Dying with each step of lighter colors help fill in the mid-tone areas of the figure, and each finer grit allow a bit of that mid-tone to remain and at the same time brings out the chatoyance.

Going through all of the micromesh grade brings out even more.

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I dyed and pore filled a couple more times on the back and sanded it up to the same level as the top.

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And then I sealed the whole thing with a very thin coat of Tru-Oil.

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SR

 

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18 minutes ago, beltjones said:

You are an absolute artist with the wood carving and the maple dying. I don't mean to leave out any other areas where your work is superb, I'm just blown away at what you can do with a gouge and some wood dye. 

Thank you for the kind words. I appreciate that even more since I drooled a little watching you create your own first build.

SR

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15 hours ago, beltjones said:

You are an absolute artist with the wood carving and the maple dying. I don't mean to leave out any other areas where your work is superb, I'm just blown away at what you can do with a gouge and some wood dye. 

Absolutely this ^^^

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I was watching that finish going "ok, dark red then lighter red and sand back... looks pretty good..." then the amber and blamo... looks like a million bucks.  Tiger stripes - nailed it!  Also  nice piece of flame. 

Like the finger cutouts for the back plates.

really great looking build.  nice work.

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It would seem that the rule of thumb to getting a nicely enhanced flame is to not use black. That just turns it cheap looking very very easily I think. Scott's bursts are consistently stunning these days. Not quite Drak level, but not far off. Drak used to get some killer wood though, and that is hard to go wrong with.

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9 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Chain link figuring in Ash! It's a new one on me. I've seen wood that's grown over signposts and incorporated bike frames, but not chain link fences. Yet.

Isn't that the strangest thing? You can see in this pic that it existed on the surface. I thought it might be some kind of bug trail. But the back carve has gotten well below the surface and the lower bevel is about half way through. And the chain link is still there. I have come across a couple of places that looks like a bug may have backfilled his tunnel, but it is very solid and not at all punky.

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SR

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6 hours ago, mistermikev said:

I was watching that finish going "ok, dark red then lighter red and sand back... looks pretty good..." then the amber and blamo... looks like a million bucks.  Tiger stripes - nailed it!  Also  nice piece of flame. 

Like the finger cutouts for the back plates.

really great looking build.  nice work.

Thanks a million.

Let's see how it does after the tinting.

SR

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4 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Thanks a million.

Let's see how it does after the tinting.

SR

either way that's what I'm taking away from this thread: dye progressively lighter colors while sanding back each time.  Mental note to "scott r method".

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4 hours ago, Prostheta said:

It would seem that the rule of thumb to getting a nicely enhanced flame is to not use black. That just turns it cheap looking very very easily I think. Scott's bursts are consistently stunning these days. Not quite Drak level, but not far off. Drak used to get some killer wood though, and that is hard to go wrong with.

Yeah black turns it dirty in a hurry. I used a tiny bit in my first dark sand back and am sorry I did. It created some dirty looking areas that took a long time to sand back out. Back in my college days, in my painting classes I was given a list of colors to buy. Black was included of course but was only to be used as black. A color called Payne's gray was what was to be used to darken various colors. The name is misleading as it is actually more in the lines of a deep navy blue. The lesson was this kept the shadow colors cleaner and black makes them dirty.

@Drak level is the pinnacle and what I strive for. Maybe one day....:)

SR

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2 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

either way that's what I'm taking away from this thread: dye progressively lighter colors while sanding back each time.  Mental note to "scott r method".

I'd love to see how that works out for you. Remember to sand back your progressively lighter colors with progressively finer grit.

SR

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I thought I would get to the tinting this weekend. Turns out what looked like good pore filling after three applications of Timbermate, still had plenty of open pores.

So I spent most of the time shooting Belens vinyl sealer and sanding it back to complete the pore filling. At then end of this day I did get a couple of coats of lacquer shot.

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While I waited for each coat to dry, I considered a different option for pore filling. Since the problem seams to be be pulling the fill out of the pores while sanding it smooth, I remember ed how difficult it is to get Titebond out of the pores when there is squeeze out from glue ups. So I prepped an ash offcut by sanding it to 220, dying it with black in a water carrier (since titebond is water based), and sanding that back. Then I mixed water and dye and titebond and squeegeed that into the pores. It is curing now and we'll see how that goes as I work on it while watching the lacquer dry.:)

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SR

 

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