steveh2112 Posted October 6, 2018 Report Share Posted October 6, 2018 Hi all, I just bought a flame maple top Ibanez as a fun project, i want to do something a little unique with it. I saw some amazing finishes as kiesel guitars and one in particular i'd like to try has a blue dye on part of the top only and a different color on the rest with a hard line between the 2 colors. i don't know how you would do that, since i expect simply using masking tape wouldn't work, the dye will bleed under the tape. any ideas? thanks, steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neven Posted October 9, 2018 Report Share Posted October 9, 2018 Hey Steve, here's how I do it. By using 3M pinstripe masking tape (3mm width) I mask of the edge of the top that I'm gonna dye, the tape goes ON the top, not on the bevel/binding/whatever. I'm using pinstripe tape because it's flexible when doing curves, it's not made of paper but od some sort of plastic. When I finish with 3mm tape, I put at least one more round with 3M blue masking tape (20-22mm or so) so I can be more relaxed when using lacquer in the next stage. So, when the top is masked off nicely with precise edge and curves, I take a clean cotton rag and damp it a little into my 2K lacquer, and wipe it over the plain wood (binding, or in your case bevels) in 2-3 thin layers. Lacquer soaks in the wood and dries quickly, leaving the fine, precise line between the bevels and the untouched top. Then I do dhe dyeing. If some dye goes on the lacquer, I clean it in no time with a clean rag slightly dampened with acetone or nitro thinner. The dye doesn't soak the wood that is lacquered because the pores are sealed. By using this method, I get a nice crisp line without a problem. Here's the latest example - dyed top and sides, and a natural maple faux binding. I hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted January 5, 2019 Report Share Posted January 5, 2019 When I’m doing faux binding (prs style) I don’t mask anything off, I am careful at the edge not to spill too much over, however once I’m done staining, I scrape round the edge carefully with a fresh razor blade to get the perfect solid line. Try not to scrape against the grain as it will leave a rough edge, but said edges can be gently knock back with 600 grit. That works for me anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.