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Thank you for your excellent input again.


I will answer in turns.


1. Cubic Zirconia ( CZ ) 


I have never seen, nor touched Cubic Zirconia. I know this is used for artificial diamonds and, some specialists say, the clarity of CZ is greater than this of a diamond. The hardness is not greater but is very high, higher than some real gems.


You are 100% right : the greater the hardness, the greater the breakability ( brittleness ). The question is whether CZ is brittle enough to be broken from guitar playing.


I do not have an answer to this question because I do not have access to CZ. However, I realise a few things :


* CZ is used for mass consumption ( jewellery ). Therefore, the price of CZ may not be high. For picks, clarity is not important, thus, CZ may be even more inexpensive.


* CZ is used for rings. Rings are exposed to a lot of scratching and banging. Hopefully they are able to improve CZ.


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On 10/22/2018 at 5:37 PM, curtisa said:

Understood. I had assumed your statement meant that you didn't know how to subscribe to the thread, rather than you didn't want to.


I would've thought that making a CZ pick thin enough would also make it too brittle to either be machined reliably or long lasting under playing conditions. It might be hard, but it's probably also prone to breakage at the thicknesses that make it usable as a pick, unless you're happy for it to be similar in shape and size to, say a Dunlop Stubby.


I guess what I meant was, is there a particular set of dimensions and angles you're working towards when refining the shape of your picks, and how did you arrive at those values? It's not clear (to me at least) what you mean when you use terms like horizontal/vertical angle, sharpening vertically etc in your paper. A diagram defining what these terms refer to would help. 

You mention that refining the shape is leading you towards faster speed and lower contact area, but in the photos in your paper, many of the modified picks have quite a 'broad' tip with a large included angle. Isn't this increasing the contact area? To that end, wouldn't a tip with a smaller included angle with the smallest amount of contact area be better for speed, such as a stock teardrop shape or the smaller Dunlop Jazz III? 

I personally find that the small red Jazz III works for me. I used to use the standard Dunlop Tortex picks exclusively, maybe 1 - 1.3mm thicknesses. Years ago a friend of mine gave me a teardrop pick to try and I immediately fell in love with the small shape, the rigidity and fine point. That eventually led on to the Jazz III, and I've never changed back since. Even now If I go back to the standard-sized pick it feels like I'm trying to pick the strings with a dinner plate; it just feel too big and clumsy in my hands. Weirdly I couldn't get along with the black Jazz IIIs, despite it being the same size and shape as the red ones. The surface finish was slightly different, which made it harder for me to hold on to. The red one is more glossy and easier for me to get a grip with. 

Super-thick picks don't sit right with me (3mm Dunlop Stubby). Too chunky and clubby.  

I did try a couple of metal picks years ago. I may still have them somewhere. I had a copper one made from maybe 0.5mm sheet and a quite thick stainless steel (perhaps 1.3mm?); both were the standard shape. The thin copper one tended to snag on the strings a lot which I found irritating (could've been cheaply made with rough edges though). At the time I was heavily influenced by Joe Satriani, and would regularly incorporate pick scrapes on the lower strings while playing, but the copper pick being so stiff and having sharp-ish edges would destroy the wound strings when doing those kinds of effects.

The SS one wasn't actually too bad, but the main thing that turned me off metal picks of any variety was the fact that they would tarnish in my hands while using them. I'd end up with blackened finger tips after an hour of playing, and I'd inevitably end up with black smudges showing up all over the white scratchplate. I don't recall having an issue with the sound ('zing', as you say) of these picks though.

There was another pick I used to have. Might have been called the 'Dava Speed Pick' or something. It was essentially a more pointy teardrop shape, perhaps 1mm thickness, and the last 5-8mm of the tip was deliberately twisted a few degrees. I guess it was designed to make the pick tip strike the string squarely, rather than at a slight angle that most people's playing hands would naturally hold a pick at, but in my hands it felt like it was hindering more than helping.

1. I guess what I meant was, is there a particular set of dimensions and angles you work towards when refining the shape of your picks, and how did you arrive at those values? Not clear what you mean when you use terms like horizontal / vertical angle, sharpening vertically etcetera. A diagram defining what these terms refer to would help.


I shall try to attach some simple diagram. Please, note : the diagram is not proportional to the real picks but is just to provide an idea of the discussed terms.


I will try to explain again :


When one puts a pick on a table and looks at the surface of the pick to, say, read the manufacturer name an logo, one looks at the horizontal shape of the pick. The angle of the tip is the horizontal angle.


When one holds the pick with hands and looks at the sides of the pick, one looks at the vertical shape of the pick. The pick cannot stay in such position, just as a coin cannot. Must be held. The tip angle looked from the side ( provided the pick is sharp vertically ) is the vertical angle of the tip. When one looks at a Porsche from the side, the angle of the hood towards ground is the vertical angle of the hood of the Porsche.


To sharpen the pick horizontally is to sharpen the SIDES of the pick, then put the pick on the table and look at the changed horizontal angle.


To sharpen the pick vertically means to file the surface of the pick near the tip. When the pick is on the table, there will not be much of a difference. When the pick is held sidewise, the vertical angle of the tip is changed.


2. You mention that refining the shape is leading you towards faster speed and lower contact area, but in the photos in your paper, many of the modified picks have quite a “ broad “ tip with a large included angle. Isn't this increasing the contact area? To that end, wouldn't a tip with a smaller included angle with the smallest amount of contact area be better for speed, such as a stock teardrop shape or the smaller Dunlop Jazz III?


Yes, the shape I use is with a broad, large, wide included angle ( horizontal angle ) of 90º to 120º.


The point you have made is of immense importance. Yes, you are right. Mechanically, the more pointed the tip ( sharp horizontal angle ), the lower the contact area ( although edge ) as the travel of the pick on the string is lower. In other words : when you hold the pick horizontal to the string, the contact surface is lower. When you twist the hand and the pick is not horizontal, still the contact surface and the contact period are lower. Your point is 100% true.


However, the more pointed ( sharper horizontal angle ) the pick, the more the drag on the string when the hand is twisted. Thus, I pay with some friction ( supposed to be low amount ) in order to be able to quickly go through the strings with twisted hand.


Thus, in case you always play with the pick 100% horizontal to the pick, yes, the more pointed the pick the lower the contact area and the lower the friction. However, for twisted hand, a compromise is to be made.


3. I personally find that the small red Jazz III works for me. I used to use the standard Dunlop Tortex picks exclusively, maybe 1 - 1.3mm thicknesses. Years ago a friend of mine gave me a teardrop pick to try and I immediately fell in love with the small shape, the rigidity and fine point. That eventually led on to the Jazz III, and I've never changed back since. Even now If I go back to the standard-sized pick it feels like I'm trying to pick the strings with a dinner plate; it just feel too big and clumsy in my hands. Weirdly I couldn't get along with the black Jazz IIIs, despite it being the same size and shape as the red ones. The surface finish was slightly different, which made it harder for me to hold on to. The red one is more glossy and easier for me to get a grip with.


Many people say like you. I, however, may have a difficulty with a tiny pick such as Jazz III.


Please, bi kind to do so : For around $5, purchase a bag of Dunlop, Max Grip, Carbon Fibre. They are very tiny and similar in size to Jazz III. Please, try the pick as is. Please, use 1000, 2000 and, in case available, more sand paper to sand the tip. You can sharpen the pick horizontally ( can be done with 1000 grid sand paper and then 2000 to smoothen up ) until the pick is sharp. Please, try the pick. You can use the pick for a while. Then, in case you wish, you can sharpen the pick horizontally with the sand paper.


You may wish to put the sand paper sheet on a piece of wood ( may glue the angles of the sand paper with duct tape not to move ) and move the pick on the paper.


Please, provide some kind of address and I will mail you some Carbon Fibres and others for free.


4. Super thick picks don't sit right with me (3mm Dunlop Stubby). Too chunky and clubby.


Many people say like you. Most people would not consider a thicker than 1mm pick. Some shops do not sell picks thicker than 1mm and one has to order them through the shop.


I like thick picks too because they can provide an excellent 3D shape which cannot drag the string, regardless of how the pick is held ( straight hand or twisted ). This is paid with larger contact area and friction. Dunlop Big Stubby NYLON, however, is incredibly slick and does not add too much friction.


The biggest advantage of big and thick picks is the inertia and handling. The power is much higher. Thus, even when the string is slightly dragged, the powerful pick will plow through.


5. I did try a couple of metal picks years ago ( and more )


Please, do provide some address and I will mail you some metal picks. Brass is excellent and will not darken your fingers.


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  • 2 weeks later...

I played with the picks I last purchased :


1. Gravity Picks Sunrise 1.5mm : The material is OK. May be slightly brittle and, thus, abrasive. Difficult to tell because of the lacquer. Did not remove the lacquer with Acetone ( nail polish removal can be used too as the nail polish removal is mostly Acetone ) because the pick is very expensive and want to keep close to original. Slightly sharpened the pick horizontally to widen the horizontal angle ( not as pointed as the original ), but, very slightly. Made a very slight vertical angle, just 1mm to 2mm from the tip. Sandpapered, thus, removed the lacquer around the tip where the pick was mechanically processed. Seems to work OK. The lacquer is bad and drags the strings. Much better without. The material is OK. May need to be made very slightly softer, but, very slightly to prevent brittleness and abrasiveness. Yet, the material needs to be strong, thus, the pick is OK as is. The pick endures a lot of abuse. Acrylic may be an excellent material.


2. Gravity Picks Sunrise 3mm : Excellent shape. Did not touch the shape at all. 100% original. The pick offers inertia and strength to hit the string, overcome any possible drags and go through. Again, problem with the lacquer. Excellent, strong material as mentioned.


3. Fred Kelly Polycarbonate ( Fat Flat ) : The material is too soft. Yet, takes the pressure to some extend. Slight drag on the thicker strings because of the soft material ( like glue ) as well as on the thin strings ( the soft material catches and drags more easily ). Thicker versions of the pick take more pressure. The original shape was 100% OK. Sharpened the pick horizontally and vertically to make a thinner tip. Worked OK. Performed marvelously.


4. Fred Kelly Nylon Medium and Heavy : Fred Kelly's Nylon is excellent. Sharpened the picks horizontally very slightly to get a sharp tip. Perfect. Nylon is Nylon! And Fred Kelly's Nylon is excellent!


5. Fred Kelly Delrin Heavy ( Red ) : Did not have success here. Too soft. Too gluey. Catches and drags the strings. Tried the original shape. Did not work. Tried own shape. The same result. Gave up for now. May be in a while.


6. D'Andrea Pro Plec : Similar to Fred Kelly Polycarbonate. May be slightly harder, yet, very soft. Work OK, though. Works well with high amplitude tremolos.


7. Janicek D Grip A 1.18mm : Nothing to do with the original Brain Nylon. Totally different material. Too rubbery. Catches and drags the strings. Sharpened and thinned the pick a lot. When the tip is very thin, the pick seems to work. Managed to make the pick work OK. When the tip is very thin, the tip flexes slightly to overcome catch and drag. The price is a slight flex. Very slight.


8. Dunlop Ultex Standard 1.40mm. The same as most Ultexes. Not happy with the material a lot. Changed the shape very slightly ( horizontal angle not as pointed ). Still not good. Ultex needs to either be filed ( and, probably, washed with Acetone ) and polished well to become glassy or played a lot in order for the strings to do so. Looks like Dunlop coats them with rubbery stuff, probably for grip and against zing. Reduces the speed tremendously. Clayton Ultem seems to be faster. In some cases, such as Flow ( and probably PrimeTones, I do not have them, have only the black ones ) the Ultex material Dunlop uses may be better and may not be coated with rubber.


Although I consider Dunlop Delrin 500 2.0mm ( heavily reshaped ), Dunliop Tortex 1.14mm ( heavily reshaped ), Fender Touring Delrin 1.0mm ( ordered 1.14mm, still do not have them ), the Nylons, etcetera, I continue to use Dunlop Jazz III Max Grip Carbon Fibre ( washed with Acetone, reshaped and with glued extension handle ).


I hope this helps and I hope I can update the document, I do not know when.


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1. Fender Tru Shell Extra Heavy


I am proud to inform you all I have received the Fender Tru Shell pick. This pick has been made of proteins and is, therefore, organic. The organic structure has been made to copy this of the tortoise shell. 


The pick, however, came warped in a factory sealed wrap. Fender claims the pick must not be in a high temperature and the pick had never been. Most likely, however, strong light can also make the pick warp. This may have happened to other warped picks I have had. 


I played with the original pick without any modifications. The pick played perfectly and incredibly quickly. However, when I modified the pick, the pick could not be smoothen very well. Most likely, however, the pick will become very smooth after some playing. This is because I do not have real wool to smoothen the pick. 


2. Gravity Picks Acrylic Sunrise 1.5mm Pick


This is what happened to Gravity Picks Acrylic Sunrise 1.5mm pick. I reported the pick seemed to be brittle. This is, probably, not the case or may be, but, does not affect playing. This is because some materials have the property to " stick " when under mechanical action. As mentioned, wood is one of these materials. The atoms and molecules get closer and strionger one to another. 


Thus, after awhile, the Gravity Picks Acrylic Sunrise 1.5mm pick performed excellently and is not brittle nor abrasive. Just perfect. The problem was most likely the nasty lacquer which was filed off after more play.


3. Dunlop Jazz III XL Series Black Pick


This is, most likely, made of very strong and very highly compressed Nylon. The thickness of the pick is around 1.25mm or 1.30mm, but, the pick is as strong as made of Titanium alloys. I have filed the tip to fractions of a millimetre and the tip continues to be strong and inflexible. This is one of the fastest picks I have ever seen, along with Dunlop Big Stubby Nylon. I hesitated whether to switch to this pick from Carbon Fibre and decided to stay with the Carbon Fibre material but was very close. I got another 6, though, to have 10 in possession. The shape was not bad, although, I heavily modified the pick to a faster ( I think so. ) shape.


4. Dunlop Gator Grip Picks


I tested one and disregarded the pick long back. Big mistake. These are excellent picks. They are not as durable when filed off and sanded, but, extremely durable when playing. The string has hitting effect too and not only abrasive. They seem to stick well when driven by the string. The speed is amazing. These picks are made of Delrex ( something similar to Delrin but faster ) and are the fastest picks by Dunlop made of other than Nylon plastics.


These are also a Dunlop bestseller along with Tortex and Delrin 500. Cannot get wrong to get them. Also, the Internet says these are preferred by Heavy Metal players ( fast ).


5. Janicek D Grip A 1.40mm


I got another D Grip pick by Janicek. The 1.40mm is perfect even in the original shape. I still think, however, their material is not as slick as Janicek Brain 1.60mm ( compressed Nylon ) picks.


6. Clayton Acetal


Decided to revise Clayton Acetal. These perform lighting fast after reshaping and smoothening.


Acetal, Delrin and, probably, Delrex are made of a similar material which has a few commercial name, but, the real name of which is Polyoxymethylene. I have tried to find out which one is faster : Dunlop Delrin 500 and Delrex, Fender Touiring Delrin or Clayton Acetal. I cannot find an answer. Maybe Clayton Acetal, maybe not. All of them are fast.


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A List of New Ideas : 

1. Stone Picks ( in a Process to Order ) : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Tooyful-3-Pieces-Guitar-Finger-Picks-Pendant-Plectrums-Malachite-Stone-2mm-for-Guitar-Bass-Banjo-Ukulele/32841803542.html ( There are other stone picks at AliExpress and elsewhere. )  Please, note : Stone and bone picks may not be faster than metal and may generate just as much ( or more ) noise, thus, to test stone picks may be just for entertainment purposes. Please, note : there are Agate picks at AliExpress.com 

2. Winspear Picks ( May Be Difficult or Impossible to Find ) : https://www.winspearinstrumental.com/collections/plectrums  

3. Teflon Picks ( May Be Difficult or Impossible to Find ) 


4. Cubic Zirconia Picks ( may not be available ). 


Edited by StevenStanleyBayes
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1. The Hardest Wood I Can Find


I am exceptionally proud to inform you I have found African ( Gaboon ) Ebony wood and I have made a couple of Ebony picks. I need to test these picks more, but, the first impression is these picks are ultra fast, yet, a bit scratchy, i. e., abrasive. The picks are not scratchy when sanded often with a succession of 1000, 2000 and 3000 grid paper or sponge. There is zing but not as high as metal, normal as with most any pick except some.


African ( Gaboon ) Ebony is extremely hard, one of the hardest woods on the planet. Best be cut with hacksaw for metals and is pretty much the same as metal. The wood can be easily split with a chisel. An important consideration is to use the grain of the wood throughout the length of the wood. In other words, the grain must run from the handle of the pick towards the tip of the pick.


A good idea is to make a pick in the opposite of the normal way, i. e., the grain runs from side to side, just to find what happens.


African ( Gaboon ) Ebony has a hardness of 3080 on the Janka scale which is one of the highest. Ebony is so dense and heavy, so the wood sinks in water. Ebony was used by the British navy to protect the side of their ships from cannon fire which bounces back unable to penetrate through th hard wood.


I have also found a harder wood : Pink Ivory Wood which has a Janka hardness of 3250. I have not yet purchased and tried this wood.


2. Home Made Acrylic and Polycarbonate


To find these materials is extremely high. Yet, there are some possibilities : work glasses and, mainly, magnifying lenses can be made of extremely clear acrylic or polycarbonate. Acrylic magnifying lenses are sold in St. Michaels.


All of these are supposed to be very hard but not brittle and scratch resistant. Yet, clarity is the main parameter. This is why, I am unhappy, the lenses may have been built for clarity and not for hardness. Also, the manufacturers may need to make them not as hard to avoid a possible brittleness. Yet, a good idea may be to cut an acrylic magnifying lens and try to make picks thereof. The pick must be extremely well polished after made. The successive grids may be 1000, 2000, 3000 and much more, such as 5000. Real wool may need to be used. 


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Also, I have been playing with Fender Tru Shell Extre Heavy ( modified ) and Gravity Picks Acrylic Sunrise 1.5mm ( modified ).


1. Gravity Acrylic Pick ( Modified )


The two picks perform excellently. The acrylic pick needed a lot of playing to achieve fast playability and is an ultra fast pick thereafter.


2. Fender Tru Shell Pick ( Modified )


The Fender pick is more interesting. I am not sure whether I am right or wrong, but, after modification, the pick has to stay for a while to “ harden “. Because the pick is made of proteins, this may be true. Similar to other organic materials, say, bread. When bread stays for a long while, bread hardens. This MAY BE the case with the pick too.


Anyway, the pick has been made to replicate the real tortoise shell pick which is now illegal. I have never seen a real tortoise shell pick, but, there is a possibility these were not very fast and were slightly scratchy on the string and, thus, not ultra fast. The Fender pick is super fast, but, I do not know whether this has been the goal of Fender. Again, the main goal of Fender MAY have been to replicate the original tortoise shell pick with all the advantages AND disadvantages and not to make a faster pick than the original. 



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Who Uses What


1. Yngwie Malmsteen :



Dunlop Delrin 500 1.5mm


2. Eddie Van Halen :



0.6mm Nylon

< 0.6mm in the 80's

Brass and Copper before


3. Steven Vai :



Ibanez Steven Vai Signature pick, 1.0mm Heavy


4. Angus Young :



Fender Extra Heavy Picks with a lot of plastic in them?


5. Jimmy Page :



Dunlop Herco Flex 75 Nylon Pick


6. Ritchie Blackmore :



Tortoise Shell, custom shape, one side squared, the other, pointed.



What kind of picks and strings do you use?


I use tortoiseshell picks, one end squared, one end pointed. I have them specially made for me because you can't get them at all. I use tortoiseshell because plastic is too soft; I like them brick hard. I've used this shape ever since I was 11, and I just cannot play with those round things everybody plays with, because when you jump a string you tend to hit the other string on the way. With this pick you can be more nimble. I use Picato strings; I've always used them. They're the best; Eric Clapton turned me on to these. He's now using Fender - I don't know why. Why Ernie Ball has the monopoly on strings I'll never know. The gauges I use are .010, .011, .014, .026, .036 and .042.



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  • 2 weeks later...


I have updated the document with the new picks.

Also, I have purchased and received the Teflon pick. 1mm is too soft for Teflon. Even 3mm may flex. Must be >= 3mm, best be 5mm not to flex. Otherwise, may be OK. Cannot say for sure because the pick flexes a lot.

I have switched from Dunlop Carbon Fiber to Fender Tru Shell for now. The Fender Tru Shel pick self healed the sides, the top and the bottom of the modified tip to be smooth and lighting fast. How scratching sound. Maybe, light and heat from fingers ( 36.5 degrees Celsius ) did the trick after played for a while. An amazing pick! Ritchie Blackmore is right with everything : pick and strings! 
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  • 1 month later...

There have been many updates in the file since the previous post.


An important point :


Some people wrongly think the pick can be compensated for by playing techniques. This is not true. The pick drives the strings to make sound. The pick is an important piece of the chain. The only technique to compensate for a slow pick is to play by fingers. Now, there are pieces where the pick does not influence the play as much ( usually, slow pieces ) and pieces where the importance of the pick is extreme ( usually, fast pieces ), but, there is always an influence. In other words, a good pick is also good for slow pieces, yet, the importance is not as high. Why use a bad pick for slow when a good pick can be used as well. The good pick influences the slow play too, I. e. the slow play is performed better with a good pick, yet, the difference between the slow play with a good pick and bad pick may be insignificant. Even though, better is to play with the good pick.


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  • 4 months later...

I play music where tremolo picking is a common technique in the rhythms. Example 16th notes at 190+ bpm. I know the path you are on quite intimately(my own personal research)with your thread. If I may, I would like to offer a few things I have found in my search.  


For sake of brevity, I’ll touch on pick geometry, or mechanics as you call it. 

Without a doubt, the jazz style pick design tends to be the “fastest”. Three reasons why: 

1. The sharpened point and slightly larger area where the pick is held compared to a teardrop design. 

2. Long edges that arc towards the tip instead of straight lines from base to tip of pick. 

3. The playing edges are not sharp chamfers, but rolled edges from pick flat face towards playing edge. 

The arc’ed long playing edges and rolled edges allow for the pick to slip past the string once contact is made while picking hand mechanics is going from downstroke to upstroke and back.  Hard edges will actually grab the strings and slow the picking down until normal use rounds out the hard edges. 

This is my own gathered data I have studied, observed, discussed with peers over the last 34 years of playing fast music. Most of the hardcore geeked out info was garnered within the past 10-12 years. It has always been a what can help play smoother and faster snipe hunt. 

Pick material (aside from at times only being able to use what is commercially available from pick companies) choice for the end user is largely determined by an individual’s picking style. Do you, pivot from the elbow with locked wrist?  Do you  relax the elbow and pivot at the wrist?  Do you only use thumb and index finger movement?  Do you roll your forearm back and forth in a twitch motion while relaxing your wrist while using the weight of your hand to provide the past the string contact rebound?  Every picking style has bonuses and limitations resulting in the need for different pick materials, stiffnesses, and mass. 

Rhythm tremolo picking requires a pick manufactured from a material that:

Maintains it’s shape while being used.(tip smear that changes the pick centerline)

Stiff enough to not allow the faces of the pick to mold itself along the dominant finger while it’s warming from the pick contact of the string friction, as well as the players body heat; while at the same time providing some material flex to allow relaxing of the fingers and hand to just hold the pick enough to maintain control  harder substances with no flex actually will make you hold the pick tighter as it will want to bounce out of your hand  resulting in speed decreases due to hand tension  

slippery enough of a material so it will easily glide against the strings being played without  disintegrating into dust as it’s used (celluloid is a decent example of a material not the best suited to tremolo rhythm tasks ( I don’t care what Slayer uses, they grew up playing before  newer plastics came to market and like all guitarists, creatures of habit  they make those rounded triangle celluloid picks work for them.  You don’t ever see them taking out faster bands on the road with them)).

Two materials I have found were the perfect materials for MY personal picking style  

1. Old formula Black “stiffo” nylon Dunlop used on the Jazz III picks. This was a matte black plastic and would not polish up to a shine.  Sadly Dunlop stopped using this material around the same time they released the Eric Johnson signature Jazz III’s.  

2. The Carbon Fiber impregnated nylon used in the Pickboy High Modulus picks with the Marijuana leaf imprinted on the pick.  The 1.14mm thickness of these picks has the stiffness of a 2mm+ pick while having the slight flex needed and these wear at about 1/4 as much as Black Stiffo,  Swiping these picks across a carpet once or twice before use will give you an almost perfect playing surface (use only enough pressure to knock off manufacture material flash).

Sadly the two materials have some downsides.  The Dunlop material is no longer used ( Dunlop will claim it’s the same, but the old stuff was impossible to polish into the shiny picks you can purchase now, it’s just whatever the red stuff is colored black)  The Pickboy High Modulus are hard to obtain and expensive. $9/ pk of 10 with zero chance of purchasing a refill pack/dealers pack/musicians pack. They also only have ONE dealer in the US in which to purchase them. All buy through them and tack on their costs, etc.  Paying $30+/month for a months worth of picks is not economically feasible for me   I can purchase a bag of 75 Jazz III XLs in Tortex direct for $21 from my local dealer.  I ended up compromising with the tortex picks of the Jazz III XL shape with the 1.5mm thickness. Absolute best material? Hardly, but material and thickness are in my personal required criteria. The trade off is weight and faster wear.  Plus the White Tortex has tendency to keep its matte finish.  


Here is a weblink for the Pickboy picks I mentioned above.  Cool picks, but damn they are expensive  



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