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Build #2 - The Osprey


ZekeB

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4 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

Golden hue sounds yummy!

Forgive me my ignorance: In Finnish nitro belongs to the lacquer family as well as all polys but you said you may do lacquer before the nitro. To me that's confusing. Are you possibly talking about shellac there?

Sorry you are correct.  My English is no good ;)

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Don't worry. Since you're on your second build there must be dozens of words you didn't know to exist. At least that's what I found out when I started this hobby. So many tools and other stuff you've never heard the names of. Not to mention that many things translate irrationally so especially when playing with finishing chemistry one has to be extra careful not to just take something that sounds alike the stuff mentioned in some foreign video.

And didn't you just type another phrase in Spanglish? Doesn't that make two languages?

Edited by Bizman62
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Heres no filler.  Just realized that other piece was darker all together.  That being said I like the golden hue.  I think the black would pull them together well.  Nitro will bring that out some more as well I believe.  Feel free to chime an opinion in.  I'm experimenting and I'm in no rush.

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1 hour ago, ZekeB said:

Thanks Mk, I'll check that out.  Here's a quick and dirty of the red grain filler vs the black.  I could have sanded more and sprayed the shellac but I'm just interested in the effect right now.  

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I like the black grain fill, add black hardware not the gold and it will be stunning in my opinion. :)

Then again I have a very strong dislike of gold hardware. I have used it before, but it looks cheap and gawdy to me, even when I used it. I have a bunch of gold hardware I will sell cheap though. The BLING is the wood and how it is used not the hardware. Minimize the hardware look so it is not jewelry on the guitar.  It should be more like subtle accents to the Bling in the wood. :)

Very nice work Zeke.

MK

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The black fill has some character but it seems to kill the chatoyance visible at the other end.

I recall seeing someone use wood dust and lacquer for filler, in that case ebony dust over ash. That might make the wood look more organic. Depending on the size of the dust particles the smaller gaps would be filled with lacquer only which by my logic should add translucency.

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Learned some really good things on grain filling.  I had issues having to refill multiple times and decided to try a light layer of shellac before the filler.  The next big lesson was scrape it.  Don't sand it.    So heres the colors.  Regular mahogany on the right.  Black on the left.   Getting better

 

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Thanks Mk.  I'm going to stick with the gold for now.  I think it goes well with the gold inlays.  Also they didnt have black for a replacement, lol.  

I agree bizman.  I think the black is a bit harsh.  I do believe a lot of that is my technique.  I'm making a new batch with less black and other natural colors to see if I can find that right balance.  We'll see!

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Forgot to mention.  About three nights into the neck profile.  Just taking it slow.  I put a 2 degree angle on the neck so it sits further in the body and doesnt get cut directly off from the pickup cavity.  I'm not sure if there's real merit there in logic but it does feel very nice and looks cool.  Not sure how far to mellow out the heel to body.  Time to go peruse the forums.

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42 minutes ago, ZekeB said:

Not sure how far to mellow out the heel to body. 

That's a question as big as the universe and with thru-necks you can take it much farther than with bolt-ons.

That one looks quite a lot like my last build, the LP Jr shaped one. With two cutaways I felt there'd be no reason to go deeper. If you can easily reach the neck pickup I'd call it easy-access enough. Some roundover might add just the tiny bit of comfort you may be looking for.

With a single cutaway the mellowing can be more problematic. The most extreme I've seen was a bass by @Andyjr1515

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4 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

With a single cutaway the mellowing can be more problematic. The most extreme I've seen was a bass by @Andyjr1515

Yes - I've had my moments :lol:

In general terms, @ZekeB , with a through neck you can be fairly bold.  The most extreme one I had didn't have a heel - the neck depth just carried on along the whole body.

But, you do have to be aware of any cutouts - either for the top to slot into or for, say, a neck pickup (as on yours).  While the neck is supported at the sides, by the body joint, nevertheless, I would be wary of this distance marked with arrows getting too small:

18320569_NeckHeel.jpg.15063f6ffa6d41b2ed179e86e616b39c.jpg

My personal limit is 10mm minimum, and preferably more, otherwise it becomes more of a set neck than a through neck.

Hope this helps.

It's looking scrumptious, by the way.  Just my kind of build :)

 

 

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On 9/12/2019 at 4:11 PM, ZekeB said:

Here was my original thought.  I think I'll have a little more than 10 mm.  thanks for your help guys.  

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based on where your fretboard ends and the neckthrough joins the wings, you could get away with having plenty more material there at the heel and still have a very shreddy neck. I'm sure you're design is plenty enough wood in strength terms, but I don't think it would hinder playability if you wanted more. Looks great anyway, really like the natural finish you're shooting for.

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So I had a router accident on my control cavity.  I put an edge on the inside of the edge to even it out.  I still didnt like the balance so it lead to the back carve wrapping around.  I was looking in the forums and found your back carves, Scott, which inspired this one.  It's just a lot less aggressive on the carve.   I still need to even it out and sharpen edges a little bit I think it's going the right direction.

I actually left the cover just slightly proud.  There's something I like about it.  I just can't figured what it is yet to exploit it more.  Maybe round the edges a little more or something.  I'll ponder on it a while.

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