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The Black Queen


komodo

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Full-sized geometry while I drank my coffee this morning. I find Adobe Illustrator useful as you can zoom WAY in, swap back and forth with inches and mm, "set the action", allow for hardware adjustments, etc, then output 1:1 templates from it.

Body/neck angle is 2.5-degree, headstock is 10-degree. This doesn't reflect any of the body radius complications but it shouldn't really going to be an issue. The weirdest thing with a radius body is - if you have a radiused blank and then cut the body on a bandsaw you get weird "sidewalls" that are all vertical. If you cut 90-degree from the guitar face, it can look weird and splayed out depending on how tight of a radius you have. This radius will be subtle enough, and with the top being carved, I'm not worried about it.

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Here's a better view, you can see my guidelines transfer from top view to the side. Of course distances change when angles are involved. The bottom drawing was made independently of the top, all created around a dead horizontal string. I did transfer things like nut and 12th frets, but scale length was measured. Hope that makes sense. If you see something that doesn't please ask. I've always got lots of "what if" guidelines, potential carves, measurement index shapes, and whatever all over my illustrations. 

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Behold the core!

Next to it is one of the swamp ash “body wings”. It’s the lightest swamp ash I’ve ever had, it feels almost like balsa in weight but much harder.

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Fretboard inlay plan. The board I have is jet black Gaboon ebony.
It took awhile to figure out just how many stars and of what diameter, and then what gauge wire that is. Then how much wire to make that many stars. A true astronomer would be able to look at that and tell you exactly where on our planet this view isn't. LOL One of my other hobbies is astronomy, so it's fun to blend the two.

 

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6 hours ago, komodo said:

Fretboard inlay plan. The board I have is jet black Gaboon ebony.
It took awhile to figure out just how many stars and of what diameter, and then what gauge wire that is. Then how much wire to make that many stars. A true astronomer would be able to look at that and tell you exactly where on our planet this view isn't. LOL One of my other hobbies is astronomy, so it's fun to blend the two.

 

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I love this. I can't wait to see it once the dots and inlays are all in :)

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2 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

I guess with a fretboard as artisan as this, the location of each of the miniature stars could be decided as you do them, after all they might look different when you're doing the real thing. Absolutely loving the concept, that ebony is devine.

You know, that thought had crossed through my mind when I was doing an earlier sketch of it. But, then I started wondering about size / diameters. This design is definitely one whose impact and depth relies on the totality, so I figured I better do the whole thing for real on paper first. I wanted to make sure the distribution and effect looked real, and there were no hidden shapes or weirdness. There was still much randomness when I did it. When I drill, I'll use this exact template.

There are three wire gauges, 22g, 18g and 14g and the MoP inlays. The wire is silver, so I'm not sure about tarnishing. If it were anywhere else I could cover it with a finish, but I don;t think I would ever spray a fretboard. Just going with it.

Once again this guitar was not meant to be a Red Special, but with the Trisonic engine and the RS tremolo build, this could also be seen as a tip of the hat to Dr. May / astrophysicist.

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27 minutes ago, komodo said:

You know, that thought had crossed through my mind when I was doing an earlier sketch of it. But, then I started wondering about size / diameters. This design is definitely one whose impact and depth relies on the totality, so I figured I better do the whole thing for real on paper first. I wanted to make sure the distribution and effect looked real, and there were no hidden shapes or weirdness. There was still much randomness when I did it. When I drill, I'll use this exact template.

There are three wire gauges, 22g, 18g and 14g and the MoP inlays. The wire is silver, so I'm not sure about tarnishing. If it were anywhere else I could cover it with a finish, but I don;t think I would ever spray a fretboard. Just going with it.

Once again this guitar was not meant to be a Red Special, but with the Trisonic engine and the RS tremolo build, this could also be seen as a tip of the hat to Dr. May / astrophysicist.

Another option is MOP powder, you can get it in course, fine, super fine etc. You could do your miniature stars by just poking the board with a bradawl and filling with mop dust and super glue. Mop dust can be filed, sanded smooth so you won't have to worry about finishing wire.

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I like the sound of this, though I already have the silver wire on the way. and it wasn't inexpensive. Filling a .020 hole sounds interesting. Any recommendations for a good source of the powder?

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1 hour ago, komodo said:

I like the sound of this, though I already have the silver wire on the way. and it wasn't inexpensive. Filling a .020 hole sounds interesting. Any recommendations for a good source of the powder?

I've literally just had some delivered that I got from Amazon (.com), I haven't used it yet but going to do some testers with in soon. It was expensive but I imagine it would be cheaper for you on that side of the pond. My plan is to use it in areas of an inlay that are going to be too awkward to cut small mop shapes out for.

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Full-sized printout at work. Super helpful to check everything.

Laying down actual hardware to double check nut width, fingerboard width and string spacing with bridge and tremolo tailpiece. I can also see some centerine adjustment, maybe slight body scaling. Things get real at this point.

Those blue lined boxes around the body shape, at 12”, 12.5”, and 13”. Those are locked, and when I do a body scale adjustment it’s easy to see the bout width and body length. This one is a little smaller by design. The wood is so dense and heavy and I prefer smaller sized bodys anyhoo.

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I’m using black and chrome open-backed Sperzels. They are lightweight and high quality, plus I had them already. Laying them down here tells me to scale up the headstock slightly. They were also used on my Dragon guitar build that I don’t dare show since they are gold - and RAD would get nauseous.

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6 hours ago, komodo said:

I’m using black and chrome open-backed Sperzels. They are lightweight and high quality, plus I had them already. Laying them down here tells me to scale up the headstock slightly. They were also used on my Dragon guitar build that I don’t dare show since they are gold - and RAD would get nauseous.

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i am offended by the hatred of gold.  I love it.  but then I love my jem 77 floral print so... basically all things gawdy are right up my alley.  (hehe)

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On 3/22/2019 at 9:16 AM, komodo said:

I like the sound of this, though I already have the silver wire on the way. and it wasn't inexpensive. Filling a .020 hole sounds interesting. Any recommendations for a good source of the powder?

This may be the same thing he found at Amazon.

http://www.inlaceonline.com/text/products/pearl-dyes.html

SR

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I've seen InLace as well as Pearl EX.  There is also crushed MoP powders of various granularity. 

After looking at all of these products for days, I'm left with two thoughts: 1) what will I do with all this silver wire, and 2) why am I not using GLOW IN THE DARK PIGMENT to have the star field glow? Huh?! Huh?! Huh?! Huh?!

Side Note: I've still got this white limba neck-through core with the truss channel and carbon bars already installed, and a set of custom P90s. Every time I go in the shop. it's looking me in the face BEGGING to be a really rude SG.  I've got to whisper to that one to go back to sleep so I can get on with this most important work.

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Tiny update - familiarity with the Red Special will help here as I don't have visuals (except for this image of Brian Mays second version of the tremolo in testing):
Solidifying important decisions that all interrelate, My goal was to build the tremolo unit, basically the same as BMs Red Special. The one thing I don't like about his tremolo is that the knife edge plate is screwed and them buried under the top. If it were to loosen and rattle you are out of luck. Plus, on my build I have a full carved top, vs his veneer. There is a commercial example that combines the knife edge onto the bolt block and would be accessible. I'm considering caving in and just buying one.

Also, the Red Special tremolo is installed from the top. With a full carved top, All I need is an opening for the tailpiece string retainer, and am considering installing this from the back. This also eliminates the cover on the carved top. As I'm also still aiming at a radiused body, this would complicate the back cover but it's not impossible. Had also considered having the top open to SHOW the tremolo exposed, it's really beautiful, but maybe out of place here.

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I've never realized how that trem works.  Thanks for the pic... it is an interesting take on a trem for sure.  If I understand, the strings sit on a plate that is against a knife edge... the strings pull fwd while the 'shocks' or 'springs' counter that force?  that would seem a lot like a kahler except w knife edge instead of a roller piece yes?

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28 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

I've never realized how that trem works.  Thanks for the pic... it is an interesting take on a trem for sure.  If I understand, the strings sit on a plate that is against a knife edge... the strings pull fwd while the 'shocks' or 'springs' counter that force?  that would seem a lot like a kahler except w knife edge instead of a roller piece yes?

The strings are strung through and pull the top of main block. the knife edge is the fulcrum, and the bottom edge of the main block presses against the compression springs (motorcycle valve springs). It's elegant, genius, and works very well - it's also very compact and adjustable.

I believe Kahlers still pulls small springs and is surface mounted. It's also the bridge, whereas the RS tremolo is the tailpiece and uses a roller bridge somewhat like a TOM. The RS trem almost has more in common with the Jaguar tremolos.

@Prostheta  Love that you did a right angle plate. Ha! I was going to weld one up this weekend if I don't buy something first.

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