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First build - Hollow Custom 22.


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On 10/29/2019 at 4:55 PM, Bizman62 said:

Was it because of the weather getting colder but you didn't mention the camera overheating at all!

It was because I switched my camera from recording at 60 fps to 25 fps.
Less frames to process means less heat.
I'd been watching USA based electronics videos so long id convinced myself electricity in the UK runs at 60hz, and id been running my camera at 60fps to avoid strobing from the strip lighting.

However im an idiot and it runs at 50hz. WHich is why i was still having issues with strobing too.
I'm now running at 25fps which divides in to 50 ok. so no issues :) 

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Oh my! You know one option would have been to seat the neck tenon in place with masking tape and super glue or even a screw and align the blocks of the makeshift routing template for a perfect fit. I've seen a video where the guy made a tailored template by molding resin around the neck tenon in an oversized template.

Another thing that caught my attention was your way of measuring the angle of the end of the tenon. Isn't your neck slightly wedge shaped all the way at least down to the end of the fretboard? You should have lined the end using a protractor having the 90 deg line along the centerline.

This is getting interesting and scary.

Hopefully you're prepared for a disaster. Even more hopefully you can find your way out of the trickiest situations!

One idea: If the glue joint of the fretboard can be considered as "straight" you might be able to use your neck pocket template for straightening the bottom of the tenon. Route another smaller template (or two for height adjusting) using the existing one and attach (tape and glue) it on top of the first one so you get a bottomless neck pocket. Align the fretboard seam along the furniture board and you'll get a reference line on the other side. Obviously that won't work if the neck is slanted under the fretboard.

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I'm curious what your wrist activity meter band thought about the planing and sanding!

Other than that, for once there wasn't anything scary! Rather the opposite, the fretboard looks really nice!

Why am I using exclamation marks only?!?

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Good video @Urumiko 

Had to smile at the '20 minutes later' up to 'An eternity later'   Hand sanding an ebony board is a great way of achieving madness. 

The last one I did like that had exactly the same thickness issue and drove me to the very edge of insanity - which is why I designed and built my self-built radius routing rig, followed more recently by a purchase of the expensive but wonderful G&W one... ;)

 

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  • 2 months later...

Getting the strips thoroughly coloured is very tricky. You'd need a vacuum chamber (or a pressure cooker) to force the dye in. Spirit based dye should prevent bleeding, at least if that were caused by water based glue. Anyhow, all that would be overkill for six individual strips! Simply get sheets of dyed veneer. They're pretty thin so you can fine tune the thickness of the stripes by gluing several strips of the same colour together.

For the heartbeats, tinned steel sounds to me like steel covered with tin which means you can't sand it flush without losing the tin. As silver may be too expensive, aluminium might be a solution. It's softer than steel and you can even cut fine stripes out of a sheet of a suitable thickness. Now that I came think about that, you might even be able to cut thin strips out of soda cans and glue them together with super glue!

As I said in some other post, clear resin in a vacuum bag would most likely be the best option. For the neck you'd need a mould as tightly fitting as possible, something you should be able to do with styrofoam and cling film. I'd even carve the first facet to the neck before applying the resin to make sure it goes deep enough to the pores as making similar facets to the mould shouldn't be an issue.

This still is scary and entertaining at the same time! Keep them vids coming!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I might have aligned the raiser strips along the edges of the fretboard. However, after a second thought I realized that your way was the right one for keeping the fretboard uniformly above the router table.

Re banding and binding... You know why it's called "binding", don't you? For those who didn't know, they used to bind the banding using bast or leather bands.

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9 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

I might have aligned the raiser strips along the edges of the fretboard. However, after a second thought I realized that your way was the right one for keeping the fretboard uniformly above the router table.

Re banding and binding... You know why it's called "binding", don't you? For those who didn't know, they used to bind the banding using bast or leather bands.

did they bind the banding or band the binding?  I'm confused.

on this note: binding... I've seen a lot of guys do binding on the board prior to attaching to the neck stock.  I'm going to try this on my les flawes but for me it looks so much nicer to have a consistent thickness of binding all they way down the neck.  long story short... you binding looks good!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
6 hours ago, Urumiko said:

Does anyone else have the VonHaus version

I had to google for it but now I know. As you said there's several similar looking bobbin sanders, the only difference being colour. I guess they all come from the same factory, including Triton. As the prices are at the same ballpark as well, within some 10% or so there can't be much of a difference if any.

Back in the early 80's I had a summer job at the local household appliance shop. I soon learned to see if the video cassette recorder was made by JVC (most of them) or Mitsubishi no matter what the brand was. Only the front cover was different. Philips was the common nominator for Dux, Zanussi etc. As we recently had to buy a new dishwasher the difference between various brands was made by how many plate racks were collapsible!

I was going to ask why you sanded that lot instead of preshaping the headstock with your nice bandsaw! But your explanation of being keen on using your new toy satisfied my curiosity.

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On 2/21/2020 at 2:10 PM, Bizman62 said:

I was going to ask why you sanded that lot instead of preshaping the headstock with your nice bandsaw! But your explanation of being keen on using your new toy satisfied my curiosity.

haha. Yes that would have been sensible. I don't show it in the video but if you look closely i did actually cut the very end before sanding as I found sanding in to end grain a lot slower. 
Yes it is the same with most electronics. Screen panels are a good modern example.

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