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First build - Hollow Custom 22.


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  • 3 months later...

what I admire about you... is you aren't afraid of hard work.  good for you.  idk if it's just looking larger in the pick... but that aluminum looks really thick.  I'm assuming the sanding part was sped up and was actually 19hours - haha, jk.  Only a true gilmour fan would persevere!  bravo.

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16 hours ago, mistermikev said:

but that aluminum looks really thick.

About 3 mm, if the camera angle didn't do any tricks to my view. Thank God that was aluminium instead of stainless steel! A single mm would have been plenty thick enough especially since you bent the pieces to the radius. But you did what you did and you performed well for a first timer.

As I don't usually sign into YouTube, here's my "note below": You managed to balance the speed nicely so that the job looks like threre's quite a lot of work to be done (as is the truth), yet the sped-ups make it look easy enough for someone hesitating to get their feet wet.

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Thank You both. Very kind as always. Yeah I was a bit paranoid about the inlay becoming dethatched so i was keen to seat it deep in the fretboard. I forgot to key it for adhesion too. To be honest filing through the inlay at the end took no time at all, quite pleasurable. 

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8 hours ago, Urumiko said:

I forgot to key it for adhesion too.

Unless you tidied the sides of the inlays, it looked like there was quite a many file marks and as you seated them pretty deep adhesion should be no problem.

Speaking of file marks, at first I thought you had been very sloppy with the shaping. Then I noticed that the closeups were at least three times the real size on my screen!

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  • 2 weeks later...
44 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

A very important lesson indeed! Get the next tighter radius fret wire or bend it yourself, R10 for a 12" radius fretboard and so on.

Yeah. I don't see any radius specification for hosco. Did you have a specific manufacturer in mind?

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No, basically just double checking that the fret wire sits tight at the edges and the center has some clearance underneath. The pre-cut pieces aren't too easy to be rebent properly which is why I prefer longer pieces. Then again, calculating the right amount of wire cut to five inch pieces can be challenging (don't ask...) as the combined amount should suffice but you can't join the leftover pieces to fill the last empty slot. The 1 kg roll I bought years ago was basically a good deal but I should've taken the wider wire - nothing wrong with the 'vintage style' narrow plus you get a longer stretch for the same price. But the difference wasn't that big and would have suited the fellow builders better. Looks like Madinter doesn't sell rolls any longer, then again the 610 mm lengths are pretty nice, two should suffice for one guitar. Maderas Barber has the 1 kg rolls in stock, 30-40 guitars from one single roll...

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2 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

 Barber has the 1 kg rolls in stock, 30-40 guitars from one single roll...

Yes to be honest I would like to try smaller more vintage wire, and I think I'd definitely be inclined to buy in bulk but my workshop is very salty and humid (next to the sea. It's a constant battle to stop things rusting up. I'm not sure I'd manage to keep fret wire pristine for any length of time unless I submerged it in oil.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I just noticed that I hadn't watched the previous video! Better now than never...

You asked about clamps that push outwards rather than pull together. You obviously didn't know you were just holding one! Simply unscrew the top end and move it to the other end! The smaller ones don't cost much, you may even get them for a pound a piece.

Another trick for future builds: Instead of small blocks take a piece of board - mdf, plywood, chipboard, whatever - large enough to support the router and make a template. You can easily support it with wedges even on a carved surface. Done that so I know! Oh, that came into your mind as well! I type these comments while viewing the video.

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17 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

I just noticed that I hadn't watched the previous video! Better now than never...

You asked about clamps that push outwards rather than pull together. You obviously didn't know you were just holding one! Simply unscrew the top end and move it to the other end! The smaller ones don't cost much, you may even get them for a pound a piece.

Another trick for future builds: Instead of small blocks take a piece of board - mdf, plywood, chipboard, whatever - large enough to support the router and make a template. You can easily support it with wedges even on a carved surface. Done that so I know! Oh, that came into your mind as well! I type these comments while viewing the video.

Haha.. yeah.. this is very much a do things, then realised I know the propper way do do things later kind of operation 😅😅. I did think you can possibly do this with some clamps but I didn't investigate. Because I'm silly.. lol. I've found, since routing the pickup cavities my neck is a bit too loose again as it was clearly not square. I'll get another chance to investigate the clamps then.

Im definitely feeling with this build I know the propper way to do things but I'm often doing it a much more dodgy way as I don't have the time or the right piece of material etc.

I'm looking forward to putting what I've learned in to the next one.

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  • 2 weeks later...

No hints about how to do things easier this time! Well, you could have attached a block of wood into the cavity as a makeshift router template but freehand isn't too difficult when you actually have a template on three faces out of four.

Waiting for the next episode!

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  • 3 months later...

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