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1st build Walnut Multiscale 7 string


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Another thing is the direction the saw works. As I already said, friction is one variable and it can be reduced by cutting the corners rather than following the bottom of the kerf.

Another variable is wobbling which is due to friction but not as directly as above. I believe this is the main culprit here.

Wobbling is caused when the blade teeth stick to the wood and the blade is then forced to cut. The longer the blade the worse the issue. Compare it to getting a kite down from a tree with a fishing rod. The rod is plenty long enough and the kite is light but when you try to push the rod just bends. There's just too much force behind the rod compared to the stiffness of the tip.

Western hand saws suffer more here since the cutting starts at the tip and the blade is then forced to continue the cutting for all of its length. A pull saw like the Japanese ones start the cut near the handle where the downward pressure is the strongest. It starts the cut deep but the rest of the blade length mostly just carries dust away from the groove. Thus a pull saw might be better for slicing large boards than a traditional hand saw. If you have to use the latter, keep the movement short and close to the handle and don't add any pressure to speed up the cut.

 

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Good advice from Bizman. Perhaps you were a little eager in the sawing rather than relaxed and letting the blade do the work. If your saw is getting a little blunt it can make you more likely to "force" the cut, which can introduce flexing and lateral forces

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1 hour ago, Norris said:

Good advice from Bizman. Perhaps you were a little eager in the sawing rather than relaxed and letting the blade do the work. If your saw is getting a little blunt it can make you more likely to "force" the cut, which can introduce flexing and lateral forces

Pretty sure this was the issue, after about 2 hours I was getting tired of hand sawing. I’ll know better next time. 

Done with the big hand saw cuts for this build though!

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12 hours ago, Lwguitar said:

Spent the last 2 hours level sanding the body and top with a Stew Mac leveling beam.

They are flat enough that when you try and pick the top off the body it sticks to it for a bit.

One thing I did when I was working on the new red one I've just finished, I used the router and thicknessing jig mentioned further back in the thread, but to get everything nice and flat for glueing, I stuck a roll of 80 grit paper to thick sheet of MDF (about 4 strips wide), then I turned the blank over and rubbed it up and down on the sand paper which flattened the whole thing evenly, I also did the same thing to the underside of the maple cap when I'd finished carving it. Both surfaces were fairly flat anyway, it was just to remove the router marks. But it works well and Ill use that "jig" in future.

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33 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

WOW DUDE... body is looking like it is going to be a real looker. fretboard is very nice too.  what type of bridge/pickups?

I’m happy with how it’s turning out so far!

Im going to be making the pickups and bridge from scratch.

The pickups are going to be super low wind mini humbuckers with wooden covers (Birdseye maple from the fretboard off cuts).

The bridge is my own design, I’m gona borrow a milling machine to build it. I couldn’t find a production bridge that I liked.

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wow, that's going to be cool.  so... tune-o-matic style bridge but handmade? 

afa pickups... you have an elec winder or using the fishing rod reel type?  this is something I want to try at some point but just... figure there is a learning curve and so many can do it better than me!  will be watching for sure.  wooden covers - birdseye sounds pretty cool too.  looking fwd to it!

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8 hours ago, mistermikev said:

wow, that's going to be cool.  so... tune-o-matic style bridge but handmade? 

afa pickups... you have an elec winder or using the fishing rod reel type?  this is something I want to try at some point but just... figure there is a learning curve and so many can do it better than me!  will be watching for sure.  wooden covers - birdseye sounds pretty cool too.  looking fwd to it!

Nope, not a tune-o-matic. It’s my own design, here are some pictures of a prototype saddle.

5E4FAA26-5EC5-4736-9705-AAC8F47A203C.thumb.jpeg.9efc026de72076770c43e7c9ced031f0.jpegDB6418DD-ABFD-4976-89AA-7F682430296F.thumb.jpeg.2c6bff70298d3394884d67b4f4d644fb.jpeg432118A0-04D5-4A59-B090-EA112F6C783B.thumb.jpeg.b6d49d19f5ada849bd663f2b65724d23.jpeg

The plan at this point is to use my wife’s sowing machine and double sided tape! Haha

I’m going to get some sort of cheap counter off amazon.

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3 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

That is looking bad ass, good joint along the top too. Is that walnut offcut big big enough to make a headstock veneer? If it was me, I'd be tweaking the headstock shape to make sure I can use it, too nicer bit not to use.

Thanks!

I modified the shape a bit and it will fit! 

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22 minutes ago, Lwguitar said:

Nope, not a tune-o-matic. It’s my own design, here are some pictures of a prototype saddle.

5E4FAA26-5EC5-4736-9705-AAC8F47A203C.thumb.jpeg.9efc026de72076770c43e7c9ced031f0.jpegDB6418DD-ABFD-4976-89AA-7F682430296F.thumb.jpeg.2c6bff70298d3394884d67b4f4d644fb.jpeg432118A0-04D5-4A59-B090-EA112F6C783B.thumb.jpeg.b6d49d19f5ada849bd663f2b65724d23.jpeg

The plan at this point is to use my wife’s sowing machine and double sided tape! Haha

I’m going to get some sort of cheap counter off amazon.

ah, I think I may have seen this earlier (terrible memory here... probably Alzheimer's ).  looks like it might have some sort of string locking mechanism?  looks like the bottom may slide along a screw hole for intonation? 

it will be interesting to see this come together.

btw... totally looks like a mini airstream or streamliner!

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On 6/4/2019 at 8:29 AM, mistermikev said:

ah, I think I may have seen this earlier (terrible memory here... probably Alzheimer's ).  looks like it might have some sort of string locking mechanism?  looks like the bottom may slide along a screw hole for intonation? 

it will be interesting to see this come together.

btw... totally looks like a mini airstream or streamliner!

The base plate will have a keyway that goes in the slot and a sliding nut under the base plate to tighten the saddle down. There will be an intonation adjustment screw on the front of the saddle. This thing will be a pain to install and adjust!

The idea behind the design is to have a bridge that is extremely smooth and comfortable and also looks good. I had to cut corners on ease of adjustment and manufacturability to meet my cosmetic and comfort goals.  

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1 hour ago, Lwguitar said:

The base plate will have a keyway that goes in the slot and a sliding nut under the base plate to tighten the saddle down. There will be an intonation adjustment screw on the front of the saddle. This thing will be a pain to install and adjust!

The idea behind the design is to have a bridge that is extremely smooth and comfortable and also looks good. I had to cut corners on ease of adjustment and manufacturability to meet my cosmetic and comfort goals.  

I like your design, that's a great idea and afa I know not a lot of focus in the marketplace on the issue of palm comfort.  I have always hated the vintage style strat saddles for this reason... so unfomfortable.  the gotoh vs100 I have is fairly decent as long as you have the saddles adjusted up a bit so the hex screws don't poke through.  I have a babicz that is about the best thing I've felt in terms of comfort.  I take it you are milling in the compensation for radius?  

nice work... this will a pretty innovative build and looking fwd to the finished pics. 

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Just a thought that occurred to me - would a grub screw that presses on a cam work as a height adjuster? The grub screw could then be at either the front or back of the saddle instead of sticking upwards? Silly, impractical idea or something I should quickly patent? :D

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5 hours ago, Norris said:

Just a thought that occurred to me - would a grub screw that presses on a cam work as a height adjuster? The grub screw could then be at either the front or back of the saddle instead of sticking upwards? Silly, impractical idea or something I should quickly patent? :D

That could work! going off of that concept it would be a bit easier from a manufacturing standpoint to have a screw threading into a wedge that lifted the saddle. The biggest problem with these kind of mechanisms is that they tend to rattle. The only way to get them quiet is to manufacture them to very tight tolerances.

My bridge is going to have a saddle similar to this one by Mera with the adjustment screw in the middle.

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2 minutes ago, Lwguitar said:

Make sure the pieces are big enough to make a guitar out of.

Right! I understand you need the offcuts to make such hearts so that sounds reasonable.

But since the Finnish Posti stopped carrying mail on Tuesdays I'll have to wait for a year for her next birthday. Who cares, she'll be 28 again anyway, only with one more year of experience.

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7 hours ago, Lwguitar said:

No work on my actual guitar but I did try out some Odies Oil and my electronics cavity cover concept on my wife’s birthday present. 

The top is held on with magnets and you push on the corner to pop it off.

218A4EB2-65AB-4A32-A81A-2D4B13CAB343.thumb.jpeg.b173be7e0e0d85660c469474da90f7ab.jpeg1FCAD1EF-37FD-4589-8658-AC90E5288554.thumb.jpeg.d52311c9aba582730f20fd2371a0ea17.jpeg

 

Nicely done, sir!

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