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1st build Walnut Multiscale 7 string


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Well I finally started my first guitar build!

Got the body template cut out of 3/4 MDF and trimmed the walnut slab down to the correct width using a band saw and a plane.

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C670FE16-25CD-4712-9A65-444B9A77B9E9.thumb.jpeg.edde2a6089fa72443b0afcf8099fae50.jpeg 

Also finished my workbench! The frame is made from a 70 year old door frame and the top is 4 pieces of 3/4 MDF glued together. 

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LW

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Edited by Lwguitar
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It is pretty ambitious but this is the guitar I want so I may as well go for it. Plus all the extra little things that make it more difficult arn't really any harder than the basic stuff needed to build a guitar, just more time consuming. Ive never done any precision wood work before so the whole project is going to be new to me. I have been planning this project off and on for about 10 years though so hopefully Ive got the skills somewhere in my head to not mess it up to bad.

The plan is to make everything but the tuners, switches and pots completely from scratch.

Here are the full specs if everything goes according to plan.

Dimensions

Number of strings-7

Fanned Fret-Low B Scale Length 26

                          High E Scale length 25

Bridge Angle-16.5 degrees

Zero Degree Fret-Approximately the 5th fret

Fret board radius-12" at nut, conical section fretboard

Number of frets-24

Nut Width-Equivalent to 1.695 nut width

String Width at nut-E-B length -1.70  E-e 1.415 equivalent

Sting to string spacing at nut-.004 increase per string treble to bass

String width At Bridge-E-B length - 2.61 inches (e-E = 2.175")

String Spacing at Bridge-.435 Inch (same as wide fender spacing)              

Electronics

Pickups custom made slanted super low wind mini humbuckers with wood covers

Preamp- Bartaloni AGB/918-2 placed after all electronics to act as buffer so guitar cable won’t effect tone

Battery 9 volt

Main Controls; 3 way paddle toggle switch bridge/middle/Neck            

                             Volume control with push push for phase reverse    

                             3 way mini toggle resonant frequency switch for neck pickup         

                              3 way mini toggle peak hight switch for neck pickup               

                             3 way mini toggle resonant frequency switch for bridge pickup       

                             3 way mini toggle low cut for bridge pickup                                         

               

               

Hardware

Bridge-Custom made top load bridge

Nut-Brass adjustable nut

Tuners-Hipshot locking open gear tuners

Neck-Bolt on

Control cavity cover-Magnetically secured easily removable wood cover

Volume knob-Custom layered wood to match pickups

               

Construction and materials

Neck-Wenge with 2 carbon fiber re-enforcement rods and a two way truss rod

Fret board-Birdseye Maple with "crown of thorns" inlay and walnut binding.

Body-Figured Makore back, figured walnut top

Frets-Evo Gold Fret wire

 

I had to google "cut of your jib" haha. Thanks!

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Got the walnut book matched. I don’t have a bandsaw that can re saw a board this wide so I had to cut it by hand.

This is what I used for a vice.

B63A6E7B-4B07-486A-BAA9-C6724F068B03.thumb.jpeg.7e0f95ad68a5128747f1e89e40e7e261.jpeg

2F10E290-F06F-4AA6-8054-224DDC83A0A1.thumb.jpeg.f6ca408b9dc3ffdf7956694b1a6566a1.jpeg

Marked the centerline.

F4C88C3B-4485-4F24-8B24-773CE1CABA48.thumb.jpeg.6baf2c9f1f457cb28871826e5552aa10.jpeg

I cut in about 1/4 inch strait across the top and then followed the line about 4 inches  down the close side of the board. Them turned the board around and followed the line down that side. The idea is to use the saw cut as a guide so you don’t get crooked.

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This happened on the opposite side of the board though. 

E287E6ED-1498-4CBE-A2C9-34F4EE698C92.thumb.jpeg.4c8739a8432137eba22f72f1a856cc10.jpeg

 

The whole process took about an hour.

The thin spots are about 3/4 inch so I should be able to do a decent carved top. 

Still lots of work to get it flat.

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A few minutes of planing...

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Not to bad so far!

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good job on the resaw, I've done that myself on a couple of builds recently, I made myself a kerfing plane out of a cheap tenon saw and some oak offcuts, I recommend doing the same, it will prevent the little hickups and give you a much better bookmatch result as you can get through the whole thing without having multiple cuts.

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2 hours ago, Lwguitar said:

Got the walnut book matched. I don’t have a bandsaw that can re saw a board this wide so I had to cut it by hand.

This is what I used for a vice.

B63A6E7B-4B07-486A-BAA9-C6724F068B03.thumb.jpeg.7e0f95ad68a5128747f1e89e40e7e261.jpeg

2F10E290-F06F-4AA6-8054-224DDC83A0A1.thumb.jpeg.f6ca408b9dc3ffdf7956694b1a6566a1.jpeg

Marked the centerline.

F4C88C3B-4485-4F24-8B24-773CE1CABA48.thumb.jpeg.6baf2c9f1f457cb28871826e5552aa10.jpeg

I cut in about 1/4 inch strait across the top and then followed the line about 4 inches  down the close side of the board. Them turned the board around and followed the line down that side. The idea is to use the saw cut as a guide so you don’t get crooked.

C5E348A9-8E82-45C5-872F-49AB2F825799.thumb.jpeg.450fe350c92b5a6e3b4a24a97450b897.jpeg

This happened on the opposite side of the board though. 

E287E6ED-1498-4CBE-A2C9-34F4EE698C92.thumb.jpeg.4c8739a8432137eba22f72f1a856cc10.jpeg

 

The whole process took about an hour.

The thin spots are about 3/4 inch so I should be able to do a decent carved top. 

Still lots of work to get it flat.

8FBA2CAD-AD5A-4C8E-8A22-5DF008BDA493.thumb.jpeg.0ec860a020a161a338088d46dd21c823.jpeg

A few minutes of planing...

73DBD7B8-87E0-4CAF-8142-94C0146B53BE.thumb.jpeg.b54e0f6adef999a11d9f1614ec49781d.jpegA0C16B6B-003E-4F7B-9554-8AB4BB40172D.thumb.jpeg.351f4bcca9a6be63aee45d94302006ca.jpeg

393F94E9-F91B-4EDB-8CA5-79CF8BEEFAF1.thumb.jpeg.eab262c755ea4d0d7eb0d91f943cf9e3.jpeg

Not to bad so far!

wow, you are brave.  that is a nice piece of wood!  I have a bandsaw that can re-saw but I'll be damned if I can get a good cut out of it... seeing your work makes me think perhaps I should consider trying this (not that I think I could do it but that I think I'd stand a better chance w your method than my bandsaw!)  Nice work!

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1 hour ago, ADFinlayson said:

good job on the resaw, I've done that myself on a couple of builds recently, I made myself a kerfing plane out of a cheap tenon saw and some oak offcuts, I recommend doing the same, it will prevent the little hickups and give you a much better bookmatch result as you can get through the whole thing without having multiple cuts.

The guy on the video I watched didn’t do that step. 

Next time I will either do that or use a table saw with a thin blade to start the cut. (My dad has a table saw he might let me use if I bring his granddaughter along)!

Thanks for the tip!

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1 hour ago, mistermikev said:

wow, you are brave.  that is a nice piece of wood!  I have a bandsaw that can re-saw but I'll be damned if I can get a good cut out of it... seeing your work makes me think perhaps I should consider trying this (not that I think I could do it but that I think I'd stand a better chance w your method than my bandsaw!)  Nice work!

It would be a sad day if I scraped this piece of walnut!

Thats the nice thing about hand tools! They are slow at cutting wood but they are also slow at making mistakes! It’s a lot harder to make a big mistake when it takes 5 minutes of hard labor!

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43 minutes ago, Lwguitar said:

It would be a sad day if I scraped this piece of walnut!

Thats the nice thing about hand tools! They are slow at cutting wood but they are also slow at making mistakes! It’s a lot harder to make a big mistake when it takes 5 minutes of hard labor!

trust me... I find it easy to make mistakes going slow!  Have a piece of 3/4 flamed oak that I want to resaw but on my bandsaw I have had poor results resawing much thicker material... and I'd hate to ruin it.  Think I might invest in a decent saw and perhaps use some hard maple as saw guides when I get to that point. 

Anywho, your build is looking pretty good.  Looking fwd to seeing it develop.  rock on!

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Finished this prototype bridge piece. The first hole is for a lock bolt and the second is for a small height adjustable saddle. The hole on the front is for the intonation adjustment screw. The plan is to make 7 of these and anodize them black.1C04ACE9-7DDA-436E-930F-998B002564DE.thumb.jpeg.825ef391eaa07fde769f961fc8ebbfb8.jpeg

BB1631F9-9A52-44BF-9AD5-C92A58521DAA.thumb.jpeg.5fd2aba16234094c5a2128434a5bd0b0.jpeg

The string goes through here.

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This key way will keep the bridge piece aligned properly.

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The idea behind this bridge is to have a more comfortable and attractive bridge while maintaining full adjustability.

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The good thing about the darker woods like walnut, wenge etc is that they're a bit more forgiving on your glue joints. tops like maple are impossible to stain well if you've got a gap that's full of glue. But I'm convinced that this top will look epic and I'm pretty jealous that I haven't got a bit of wood like that!

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On 4/13/2019 at 5:57 PM, Lwguitar said:

I sure hope it looks good sanded. After all the time it took to get that joint on walnut I’m not looking forward to all the sanding required to do the multi lam neck in wenge! 

have yet to do a multilam myself but there is def one in my future.  afa tops... I've had good luck cutting both sides at the sm time with a router... lot less work anyway.  not sure what one does with multilam.  run it through the planer?  I am not sure I would do that with figured wood.  I guess that leaves my router planer... would be a lot of work to plane down several boards for a multilam.  If it means hand sanding the whole way... I just as soon not do multilams!  I think I'm going to have to buy a jointer b4 I do that!

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