Truss Rod Route

[MKGBass]

The Stew Mac hot rod says it requires a channel 7/32" wide and 7/16" deep.

Considering 1/4" is 1/32 difference, and 1/2" is 1/16" difference, would it hurt if the channel was 1/4" x 1/2"....i would probably be putting a little silicon sealer in the corners to avoid truss rattle either way...

[john]

i use a 1/4" router bit when i use the hotrod. it works perfectly for me.(have tried it on bass and guitar)

as for the depth, ive never measured it i just set the depth guage on the router by sizing the rod end up to the bit.

[GuitarMaestro]

The width of the slot is perhaps not that important, but the depth definately is. It should be 100% accurate, so that the fingerboard has contact with the rod all along the slot. If you don't do that, you risk that your fingerboard cracks. Think about it: If the trussrod begins to bend and it does not contact the fingerboard along the whole length, it will put stress on the fingerboard at one small point only, namely the point at which the trussrod's curve is the highest. It is my understanding that this is the reason for people posting about broken fingerboards with the hotrod trussrod.

[krazyderek]

setting the depth is easy, and does have to be dead on,

[hyunsu]

i use truss rod route template..

easy work ...

[theQuestioneer]

one question?

with the 1/8 allen hot rod, they make it seem by the way they word it that you can't set it up so that it goes through the headstock on an electric neck.

but you can, right? its just badly worded?

[westhemann]

that's the one i use..yes you can set it up through headstock...it just needs to be slightly deeper under the adjusment nut

[theQuestioneer]

the adjustment nut ends up lower on the headstock (imagining fingerboard on top, neck back on bottom)?

[westhemann]

the radius of the nut is slightly larger than the radius of the lower rod.so the nut requires about a 15/32" or so deep rout rather than the 7/16" for the rest of the rod

[theQuestioneer]

ok, alright.

thanks, wes.

[Lex Luthier]

The width of the slot is perhaps not that important, but the depth definately is. It should be 100% accurate, so that the fingerboard has contact with the rod all along the slot. If you don't do that, you risk that your fingerboard cracks. Think about it: If the trussrod begins to bend and it does not contact the fingerboard along the whole length, it will put stress on the fingerboard at one small point only, namely the point at which the trussrod's curve is the highest. It is my understanding that this is the reason for people posting about broken fingerboards with the hotrod trussrod.

You know that actually makes sence. the truss rods I've used before had a completely flattened top surface that contacted the underside of the fingerboard. I'm using a Hotrod for the first time and the way it is designed, I guess that could happen.

[GuitarMaestro]

the truss rods I've used before had a completely flattened top surface that contacted the underside of the fingerboard.

I prefer these trussrods over the hotrod, because the contact to the fingerboard is MUCH better.

[MKGBass]

Thanks for all the imput guys.

I'd look for a new truss, maybe one thats more reliable, but for this first project i've already got a hot rod on the way, so I'm just going to go ahead and give her a shot.