mistermikev Posted September 22, 2020 Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 On 9/19/2020 at 8:13 AM, Bizman62 said: Some more progress today. Making templates is tedious! However, there's now a countersunk control cavity and I can use the same template for the cover. The smallest holes are for the ferrule block, however I ended up drilling individual holes instead of a single channel simply because there was no suitable router bit. And there was no 8 mm wood drill bit with a center spike so I used the 7 mm one and a regular 8 mm HSS to enlarge the holes - which ended up the row being somewhat slanted! Argh! It can be fixed, though, either by inlaying the block slanted or widening the holes to straighten the line. Or, if there's valid reason to believe the latter would kill sustain because of reduced contact area, plugging and redrilling the holes is an option as well. Opinions? See how the masking tape rips the wood! I also thought I'd make the headstock a bit lighter. Should I just cut along the line or make a German carve or bevel? before I even read your comment I thought "well that's nice... I wonder if he means to carve it". I vote carve. It's a nice set of lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted September 22, 2020 Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 On 9/19/2020 at 10:13 AM, Bizman62 said: widening the holes to straighten the line. Or, if there's valid reason to believe the latter would kill sustain because of reduced contact area, No valid reason whatsoever to believe sustain would change to a degree measurable by the human ear. I'd say carve the headstock if you are going to have corresponding contours in the body. If your body is going to remain a slab (like a tele), then a headstock with square edges will complement it better. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted September 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 Thanks @ScottR, I guess I'll then straighten the line and maybe use some 2k putty to fill the gaps. Your opinion about the headstock is also valid. The body will become radiused and potentially I'll then bind it with some offcut strips from a friend's acoustic build. If I make the binding then cutting along the lines and partially binding the headstock might look nice. Or then not, given the various woods there already are. I'm afraid there's no thickness left for a radiused headstock... Oh these plans keep evolving like yours! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted September 22, 2020 Report Share Posted September 22, 2020 1 hour ago, Bizman62 said: . Oh these plans keep evolving like yours! SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted September 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2020 Some more progress and evolved plans... It appeared that the ferrules were correctly lined, the template for the block was slanted! That was an easy fix, I simply pushed the block in and attached the template around it using masking tape and super glue, then pulled the block out before routing. The bigger photos are even more out of focus than that one - tested the "portrait" mode of my phone... As both you and the fellow builders said I should carve the headstock rather than cut it narrower, I did as suggested. And yes, it's carved from the underside as well to keep the edge line constant. Finally, I used the sled our Master for another build to rough carve the radius on the top on the large surface planer. Masking tape and super glue worked fine, it only fell off once! Even that would have been avoided if the super glue had stuck to the tape. When I tore the attachment apart most of the tapes split at the CA line! When I bought the Gorilla super glue a week ago I was a bit concerned as it looked less fluid than I expected. However, they all looked similar on the shelf and later in another shop so I thought there's nothing wrong with it. Also, the bottom of the body may have warped a bit during the summer, laying on a cork covered piece of plywood. Anyhow, there's no damage on the actual body shape so all is well! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted September 29, 2020 Report Share Posted September 29, 2020 On 9/27/2020 at 6:52 AM, Bizman62 said: Some more progress and evolved plans... It appeared that the ferrules were correctly lined, the template for the block was slanted! That was an easy fix, I simply pushed the block in and attached the template around it using masking tape and super glue, then pulled the block out before routing. The bigger photos are even more out of focus than that one - tested the "portrait" mode of my phone... As both you and the fellow builders said I should carve the headstock rather than cut it narrower, I did as suggested. And yes, it's carved from the underside as well to keep the edge line constant. Finally, I used the sled our Master for another build to rough carve the radius on the top on the large surface planer. Masking tape and super glue worked fine, it only fell off once! Even that would have been avoided if the super glue had stuck to the tape. When I tore the attachment apart most of the tapes split at the CA line! When I bought the Gorilla super glue a week ago I was a bit concerned as it looked less fluid than I expected. However, they all looked similar on the shelf and later in another shop so I thought there's nothing wrong with it. Also, the bottom of the body may have warped a bit during the summer, laying on a cork covered piece of plywood. Anyhow, there's no damage on the actual body shape so all is well! it's an interesting take on how to get a radius. interested to see where this goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted September 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2020 1 hour ago, mistermikev said: it's an interesting take on how to get a radius. Yeah, on my previous radiused builds I've just drawn the radius at both ends and made the ends meet. That slead is heavy! 16 mm Baltic Birch... The handles on the back helped a little but guiding it on the planer was still more of an effort than I thought it would be. Sliding it tilted to get the very edges was the most difficult part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted September 29, 2020 Report Share Posted September 29, 2020 Just now, Bizman62 said: Yeah, on my previous radiused builds I've just drawn the radius at both ends and made the ends meet. That slead is heavy! 16 mm Baltic Birch... The handles on the back helped a little but guiding it on the planer was still more of an effort than I thought it would be. Sliding it tilted to get the very edges was the most difficult part. seems like there's nothing that allows you to 'skim' and gradually get down to height? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted September 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2020 You mean a way to lower the ends rather than use the chipboard slats? I guess that sled was built for one time use and just saved. I didn't want to rebuild it since it wasn't mine. Looking at the design having the ends attached at the ends of the base using furniture nuts and hex bolts and maybe even slots instead of holes for the bolts would allow for adjusting to any thickness. Oh, now I understand what you mean. I didn't plane to the right thickness at one go. I started with 2 mm, then lowered it down to 1 mm when the body fell off. There's no difference to regular planing other than that you can't go deeper than the ends. Guess I'd better draw it: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted September 29, 2020 Report Share Posted September 29, 2020 got it... you change the shims between the jig and the board. or i spose if you had a jointer that had both in table adjust + out table adjust... you could just do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 1, 2020 Report Share Posted October 1, 2020 Very interesting build. That sled! Wow...looks pretty scary to me, both for the wood and for the appendages I really like the way your neck centre splices show on the headsock. It makes it look very individual and stylish. In terms of fibre-tear out with the masking tape, that is a very common challenge with the spruce acoustic stops where the thin fibres are all straight up the length of the top wood. There's always the risk of pulling fibres out but low-tack tape, peeling completely back on itself, peeling across the grain rather than with the grain and peeling 'uphill' to the grain (there is always a slight fibre angle even with very straight fibres) can help to a greater or lesser extent. Basically, whichever direction that produces less tear out on a plane or scraper is going to be the same direction to pull off the tape, always doubled back on itself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted October 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2020 3 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: peeling 'uphill' to the grain Now he tells me that! JK... Again, something obvious when you're planing but can't transfer that wisdom to removing tape! Argh! I feel stoopid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 1, 2020 Report Share Posted October 1, 2020 46 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: Again, something obvious when you're planing but can't transfer that wisdom to removing tape! Argh! I feel stoopid! Not at all. Ask me how I know this is the best way to do it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted October 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2020 OK. How do you know that is the best way to do it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted October 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 Wife wanted to take a picture of the current stage: 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted October 3, 2020 Report Share Posted October 3, 2020 That's going to be very nice! I'm a big fan of the S-curve and Florentine curl on the horn. the top is quite attractive too and offers many finishing possibilities. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted October 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 Dotting done, they're going to look nicer after finalizing the radius. 3 mm brass tube for the sides and 10 mm buttons on the top. An old shirt was no longer wearable in public but the buttons looked nice so I reused them. Maybe I'll stitch some side dot plastic in the holes... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 On 10/3/2020 at 7:07 AM, Bizman62 said: Wife wanted to take a picture of the current stage: illegal move. you CANNOT do a les paul body with tele pickups. that is against the rules. Because of how the tone molecules percolate in the resonant tone nuclei... this guitar will likely explode. That said, given it's inherent loveliness, perhaps the gods will make an exception in this case... but just know that you are now on their radar. you may have mentioned but I didn't catch... is that fretboard granadillo? really has a nice soft look to it. love the re-use of buttons as fret markers. good job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 4 hours ago, Bizman62 said: Dotting done, they're going to look nicer after finalizing the radius. 3 mm brass tube for the sides and 10 mm buttons on the top. An old shirt was no longer wearable in public but the buttons looked nice so I reused them. Maybe I'll stitch some side dot plastic in the holes... I really like the warmness of the wood and using buttons for dots is just cool. I'm way into re-purposing stuff for things it was never meant for. Great job. Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted October 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 40 minutes ago, mistermikev said: llegal move. you CANNOT do a les paul body with tele pickups. that is against the rules. Because of how the tone molecules percolate in the resonant tone nuclei... this guitar will likely explode. Take a closer look! It's not an LP body, Agreed, the lower bout has been drawn using a slanted LP template but the upper bout was drawn with a Tele template. And the horn is influenced by '80's Larrivée... 49 minutes ago, mistermikev said: is that fretboard granadillo? really has a nice soft look to it The fretboard is from the same blank of Merbau as my two previous builds, bought from a parquet factory outlet. Sadly they've closed the shop! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 Just now, Bizman62 said: Take a closer look! It's not an LP body, Agreed, the lower bout has been drawn using a slanted LP template but the upper bout was drawn with a Tele template. And the horn is influenced by '80's Larrivée... The fretboard is from the same blank of Merbau as my two previous builds, bought from a parquet factory outlet. Sadly they've closed the shop! well, I'm going to have to ask you to take it up with the gods. Anything with a single cut and not a tele IS a les paul. You can have your own opinion but not your own facts. jk, was just saying 'in general' a les paul(ish) shape. Also, it turns out there are no gods... that was all in my head. the part about lovely is accurate tho. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted October 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 24 minutes ago, mistermikev said: Anything with a single cut and not a tele IS a les paul. Tell that to O.W. Appleton! And of course, isn't there a Paul without Les smithing guitars? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 30 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: Tell that to O.W. Appleton! And of course, isn't there a Paul without Les smithing guitars? heresy! burn the witch! honestly... the first electric solidbodies where just a derivative of the first electric hollowbodies which where derivative of acoustic guitars. I had not read this story... but will have to give it a read. thanks for posting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 11, 2020 Report Share Posted October 11, 2020 It's looking very good. I like curved tops. Adds a dollop of class 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted October 12, 2020 Report Share Posted October 12, 2020 On 10/11/2020 at 6:47 AM, Bizman62 said: the buttons looked nice so I reused them Nice! SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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