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Neck through Flying V style build


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Just checked my books. Panga Panga is Millettia stuhlmannii and Wengé is Millettia laurentii. There are familial variants mostly on the African continent, but also on the Pacific rim of Asia. Generally they are all common in appearance to Wengé, including the high degree of irritation from sanding dust and sepsis from splinters.

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2 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

Just checked my books. Panga Panga is Millettia stuhlmannii and Wengé is Millettia laurentii. There are familial variants mostly on the African continent, but also on the Pacific rim of Asia. Generally they are all common in appearance to Wengé, including the high degree of irritation from sanding dust and sepsis from splinters.

I did read about that online, after I had already done the radius and sanding through the grades, luckily I was wearing a suitable mask during the process 😁

Ibanez use Panga Panga for a lot of their fretboards, and as far as I know they don't treat it, looks like they just use lemon oil before it leaves the factory. 

I was just unsure as it is quite an open grain so expect it will need cleaning regularly if left untreated. 

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Do they specifically state that it's called "lemon oil"? Like I said, that isn't a meaningful real thing outside of being a marketing term for lemon-scented chemical cleaning products. Quite likely Ibanez use some form of modified oil with metallic drying agents. Linseed is a popular base for these types of finishes (plus safflower, poppy and others) usually modified and/or containing other finishing products to build a better surface or simply dry quicker. Lemon oil isn't a thing.

Here's the Dunlop Lemon Oil MSDS:
https://images.thomann.de/pics/atg/atgdata/document/specs/189610_safety_data_sheet.pdf

....which is 90%....

White mineral oil (petroleum)
A highly refined petroleum mineral oil consisting of a complex combination of hydrocarbons obtained from the intensive treatment of a petroleum fraction with sulfuric acid and oleum, or by hydrogenation, or by a combination of hydrogenation and acid treatment. Additional washing and treating steps may be included in the processing operation. It consists of saturated hydrocarbons having carbon numbers predominantly in the range of C15 through C50.

Old English Lemon Oil MSDS:
http://www.rbnainfo.com/MSDS/CA/CA - OLD ENGLISH FURNITURE POLISH Lemon Oil - English (Jan 2013).pdf

....90%-100%....

Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated middle
A complex combination of hydrocarbons obtained by treating a petroleum fraction with hydrogen in the presence of a catalyst. It consists of hydrocarbons having carbon numbers predominantly in the range of C11 through C25 and boiling in the range of approximately 205°C to 400°C (401°F to 752°F).

Basically, expensive branded scented paraffin 🕵️‍♂️

There's a lot of things on the market called "Lemon Oil", including oil from lemons which is supposedly therapeutic and makes you poo, but not so good for guitars.

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17 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

Do they specifically state that it's called "lemon oil"?

I am just going off what they say on the forums that they come unfinished other than 'lemon oil' . The Ibanez info just states natural finish Panga Panga fretboard, so no help there... 

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Yeah, well that's the Internet for you! I mean, they might come coated in paraffin but one hopes not. 😂 

If going the Danish oil route, go by the same recommended brand if Andy is recommending one, so you know it's the same formulation. This is a great article by Bob Flexner on how terms in the wood finishing industry aren't necessarily meaningful or even accurate:

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/flexner-on-finishing-woodworking-blogs/finishing-difficult/

"Danish oil" is another term that can be vague in some contexts, as it's a blend of drying oils (Tung, Linseed/Flax) and varnish with no specific formulation. I recall that some brand's products don't even resemble the real thing that their names imply! Crazy eh?  I'd go by Andy's recommendations and experience with specific products, however bear in mind the pointers that Bob makes in that article, especially with usage instructions rarely producing the best or even expected results.

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As mentioned, in between doing the clear coats I made a truss rod cover and put a few coats of clear on it. 

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I uncovered the neck and fret board, todays job was to do the side dots. Needed the neck to stay level while the glue dried, so using my stand for painting/staining guitar bodies I screwed on a block the same size as the pickup cavity and then clamped it in place. 

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With a block of MDF on the back to keep it from marking the body.

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Easy access to the neck :) 

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Will need a good clean up once the glue has dried and the neck will need a bit of the black stain again where I have been sanding everything level. Overall very happy with how it is looking. Needs a couple of weeks for the clear coats to cure before I can do the final sand and buff, so will concentrate on getting the neck tidied up and get a few coats of oil on there.

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On 7/3/2020 at 7:50 AM, JGTay said:

I am leaning towards using danish oil as Andy mentioned. Should give it a better level of protection. 

I finish my necks and fretboards with Danish oil, Watco brand.The necks get several flood coats with the final one applied and rubbed in with fine steel wool. The fretboards get just one coat and a thorough wiping down after about 15 minutes.

SR

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3 hours ago, ScottR said:

The fretboards get just one coat and a thorough wiping down after about 15 minutes.

Excellent, thanks for that Scott. Very helpful.

Have cleaned up the edge of the fretboard today, taped off the fretboard again, restained the neck and done a flood coat on the neck. Will get another coat on the neck later tonight and a few more tomorrow. 

Hopefully can do a quick coat on the fretboard Monday. 

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A couple of updates from today.

Did a bit of tidy up on the headstock and tested the truss rod cover in place.

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Still a few marks near the nut that need tidying up.

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Also sanded the body back and tidied it up, the logo looks a lot better and is totally level with the body. Still needs going over with a rubbing compound and final polish. Very happy with how it is looking with the hardware.

Still working on the neck, so haven't oiled the fretboard yet. Getting closer though...

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Whilst waiting for the neck to cure from oiling, I did some sanding on the body and gave it a bit of a buff.

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I have left the pores showing on the back as I like the effect it gives.

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Sorry @ScottR no trees yet, was going to try and get some on the front, but it clouded over and I lost the light :( hopefully these clouds on the back make up for it... :) 

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The front is a lot smoother...

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Will probably do a bit more yet as it isn't totally smooth in some areas

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Next job though will be tidying the fretboard and then a coat of oil so I can get started on the frets.

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1 hour ago, ScottR said:

Clouds and trees! And some nice blue sky too.

It looks lovely. And it's begging to be strung up with DR strings, it says so right there on the front.:)

SR

Thanks Scott, hadn't heard of DR strings before, so checked them out. They seem to get good reviews 😁

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Cleaned up the fretboard last night and managed to get a coat of Danish oil on it.

Took a pic first thing this morning before the next stage.

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Masked off the frets...

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Level, crown and buff done. First time on stainless frets, a bit more work but should be worth it.

Also put the Tusq nut in place ready for the next bit, not glued in place yet as it may need some adjustment.

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Then it was measuring time, marked out the centre line and then triple checked my marking out before drilling pilot holes for the posts.

Just waiting on the 11.3mm drill bit to arrive now... hopefully in the next day or so.

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While waiting for the drill bits required for the next stages I decided to make the hole for the 3 way switch the correct size.

Drilled a block of wood with the correct size hole and lined it up over the top of the switch hole then drilled through

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3 way switch in place, lots of dust still to clean up.

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Tested with the other hardware to see how it looks.

Neck position...

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Bridge position...

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And central :) 

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Hopefully can get the wiring done this week, so long as the drill bits arrive soon...

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Drill bits arrived late morning, so drilled for the bridge posts and then got on with putting in the shielding and the it was in with the pots and jack.

Next up was the wiring, got the ground in first and then did the tone pot. Was just on with the neck pickup wiring, when my soldering iron decided to die....

Have been to my parents house and 'half inched' my dad's soldering iron, will finish the wiring in the morning. 

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Bridge, pickups, pots and jack all in place.

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Managed to get on with the wiring this morning.

No issues with the soldering iron, everything now in place... not as tidy as some I have seen on here, but good enough.

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Next up was the machine heads.

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And then onto the stringing up. Made some adjustments to the nut and bridge, the action is really good. Nut glued in place and then it was plug in and test... it works, very nice sound. Those Seymour Duncan Distortion Mayhem pickups are really nice.

Couple of pics with everything in place.

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And then onto some glamour shots... not got the weather for the outdoor pics, so had to do some indoor shots.

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Extremely pleased with the finished article, has been a really good project. Just waiting for it to be collected now, possibly this weekend.

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You snuck in some glamour shots while I wasn't looking! This came out very nice indeed. I particularly like the look from below with the wings all spread and the different levels on display.

You even captured some trees including a tiny one. I used to catch a bonsai every now and then myself.

Very well done!

SR

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