RonMay Posted August 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 Today I spent the morning on the position dots. Using a exacto-knife, that I ground a "chisel" like end on, I used it like a scrapper and lightly scrapped the gunk / grime away. During this process one of the dots became loose. I lifted it out and using CA glue, glued it back in place. I then used some tooth paste and polished them and buffed them with a dremel tool. They are looking much better now. I then gave it another mineral oil conditioning. The next step will be to scrape and clean the binding on the neck. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2020 (edited) Today I worked on the neck binding. It's obviously plastic and yellowed with age and some grime from storage and what not. It's pretty yellowed as the before picture shows But after very careful and slow tedious work it looks a lot better. There's still some of the yellow left but I'm afraid of doing too much in fear of doing something bad. also the other side There was also some of the lining of the case that somehow got imbedded into the finish that I removed. There 's more of that which will have to be taken care of as well. I have no idea how this happens. It's a cheap case that came with the guitar and it is a little bit to big with very little protection on the inside. afterwards It's coming along but life seems to interfere when I just get started going. Does anyone know what kind of wood in on the top and back? Ron Edited August 11, 2020 by RonMay Final question to ask was left out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 12, 2020 Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 The top looks like spruce. I don't see any shots of the back... This is coming along nicely. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 Here's a shot of the back. This is in the direct sunlight. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 12, 2020 Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 That is most likely mahogany, possibly sapele. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 Thanks ScottR. Those seems to be the standard woods for this time period, I would think. It may be the standard for most low to mid range priced guitars. I appreciate your experience. Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 (edited) Today I'm going to do my best in repairing the cracks in the back. I'm trying two different methods. One of bordering the crack before gluing it and using a protected safety razor blade to scrape down the residue before sanding. The other is no tape and just using progressive sand paper to even it out. I have never done this before so this will be an interesting learning experience to say the least. I taped up the worst of the two cracks and using CA glue, which was very thin, let it flow into the crack while I " opened it with upward inside pressure, then releasing it so that they would match up and cure together. For the most part is was successful. I applied "layers" of CA to help fill in the voids and unfortunately it also build up a straight line when the tape was removed. It took a lot of scraping and then sanding to bring it back to mostly level opposing sides. I got a little too aggressive on parts of it and wore down the finish to almost bare wood, so that will have to be re-stained in the future to try to match. The second crack and the one at the bottom I used no tape of a little on the bottom to keep it from flowing down the side. The second crack worked pretty well. It almost turned invisible. The first one not so much. You can see the aggressive sanding showing the lighter wood under neath. With the bottom there's still a little filling to do but it came out better than I expected. It's still going to take a lot more work, but it turned out not as bad as I had feared it might. The two photos I have left to show won't load, so I guess that's it for now. Next will be the one crack I know is on the front and any others I might find as well. Ron Edited August 14, 2020 by RonMay to group the photos closer together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 This coming along nicely. Isn't it surprising how far the little layer of very thin tape will raise the razor blade above the surrounding surface? There's way more left to sand flush than I ever expected. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 13 minutes ago, ScottR said: This coming along nicely. Isn't it surprising how far the little layer of very thin tape will raise the razor blade above the surrounding surface? There's way more left to sand flush than I ever expected. SR That's exactly what I found too. Around the edges of the tape it was very thick. I need to use CA to fill in on the bottom crack, but not today. Is there a "touch up pen" or such for a mahogany finish like this one? I need to blend in the over sanded parts. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 45 minutes ago, RonMay said: Is there a "touch up pen" or such for a mahogany finish like this one? Yes. Look up stain touch up marker and you'll find more than you'll know what to do with. If you've got any leftover stain around the house you can thin it down with mineral spirits, and wrap a rag around your finger dip a little into the thinned stain and then rub it mostly dry on scrap. Then rub the mostly dry stained rag over your bare spot and gradually darken it that way. It should stick to the wood and wipe off the finish. Test in a small spot or on scrap first of course. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 (edited) Home Depot has some in the catalog. I have some other things I need there so I can add this to my list. Repair Marker Thank you SR . Ron Edited August 14, 2020 by RonMay add thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 3 hours ago, RonMay said: I wonder if the pale area of the repaired crack is where the original wood fibres weren't quite flush before you sanded them, and you've just taken off the high areas down to the bare wood. You may find that a little bit of clearcoat is all that it takes to restore the original colour. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 curtisa, I think you're right about the unevenness of the surface and the sanding catching the high spots more than the low. Ive rubbed it with mineral oil and it is what you see. I'm not sure what you mean about "clear coat" but you may be right. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted August 14, 2020 Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 Clearcoat = varnish, lacquer etc. Although if you've just rubbed mineral oil into it you may have just precluded doing so. It's possible that adding mineral oil to exposed timber will create adhesion issues for any subsequent layers of clear. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2020 Thanks for the explanation. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2020 Today I spent all morning on cleaning up the grime, crud, and funk off of the top binding on the pick guard side of the top bout. I need to find a rubber eraser, like we used to use in school, to use as a sanding block to make it easier on my fingers. before after There's still a little yellowing left but it's looking a lot better than it did. This will continue for the next few days to come as it's taking a lot of time to do. Ron 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted August 15, 2020 Report Share Posted August 15, 2020 It seems like you're enjoying the task! Isn't it like sloooowly unwrapping a present you've wanted for a long time, knowing by the shape and size of the package that it's the real thing? Clear nail varnish might be a good add-on to your toolbox as it's pretty similar to the guitar finishes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2020 Bizman62, I had never thought of it like that, but your right. The more that gets done, bit by bit, the more excited and motivated I become. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2020 To help with the sound board binding I made a small finger sanding block. I can slip the end the sandpaper in between the jaws of the pin and i'm thinking of a small screw and a washer to hold down the back end of the paper. It should make it easier on my fingers and a more solid contact with the binding with out rounding the outside corners. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 Have you ever heard about the "masking tape and super glue" trick? It's arguable whether it's strong enough for routing or other power tool tasks (I've had no issues so far) but it's perfect for applying sanding paper to most any material. You simply burnish masking tape on both surfaces and glue them back to back with super glue. There's good double sided tapes but they often add softness where it's not needed, they may creep and what may be the most irritating thing is that removing them can be a PITA whereas masking tape comes off like - masking tape. You might wonder (like I did) why not just glue the sandpaper to the back of the tape. That's because there's no telling about the quality of the sandpaper, the glue might seep through and you definitely don't want to rub your instrument with CA glue! Masking tape is made for not to let liquids through. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 I just spray the back of a sheet of sandpaper with 3M 77 spray adhesive. It holds the paper nicely and is still removable. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 @Bizman62 I had seen that method to stick sandpaper to stuff, but it didn't come to mind. Thanks for the tip. I'm definitely going to try that out. I won't have to find a small screw for the back. I like simple. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 @ScottR , thanks for moving my project to the right forum category for this project. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonMay Posted August 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 38 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: You simply burnish masking tape on both surfaces and glue them back to back with super glue. I'm not sure what you mean by "burnish". Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 17 minutes ago, RonMay said: @ScottR , thanks for moving my project to the right forum category for this project. Ron I'd be happy to say your welcome......but that was probably @curtisa. I've made things disappear in the past, so it's in everyone's best interest if I leave things like that alone. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.