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My first scratch build ever

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This is my first true scratch build. An SG junior with a P90 pickup and wraparound bridge. One tone & one volume knob.

Yes Sir ! Thanks.  I am liking one piece bodies. That's the way to go if you can get planks that big. I had to loose a little off of the rounded back ,but I just move the template to make it fit

Okay, I have a lot of the hard work done. I sanded the body with 80 grit, 120 then 220 & 320. Sanded the neck and laid in dot fret markers of red oak , radioused the fretboard & put

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3 hours ago, David Ivy said:

However it needs some tweaking.

The nut is too high and it needs to be set up.

She looks nice!

Talking about tweaking, it's always better to have too much material than too little. It's often good to leave the nut a tad too high until the neck has settled to the string tension. The baby steps from here on will and should take as long as the entire build so far!

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4 hours ago, David Ivy said:

Thank you Crusader!

I appreciate the complement.

Now I just need to get it to play as nice as it looks.

Being my first complete build I have made a few mistakes. So I need to try to fix the ones that I can.

Even after building the number I have done over the years, every build I do requires quite a bit more work from initial 'finished' to get it playing and feeling how I think it should.

The SG looks good :) I bet with that body thickness it doesn't suffer from the notorious SG neck dive!  What weight is it?

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3 hours ago, David Ivy said:

Looks like I am going to have to put all the frets out sand the fretboard down a lot more then re-fret it.

Ouch! What makes you think so?

If the frets are properly seated so there's no gaps under them, leveling the frets should be sufficient. Minor humps and dips don't matter that much as it's the frets that determine the note - think about scalloped frets, they can be very uneven and still playable! A straightedge placed on the frets will tell if the overall line is straight. Adjust that with the truss rod with strings off. Level with a sanding beam or similar, marking the frets with a Sharpie so you can see where you've sanded. After that a fret rocker will tell if a single fret is still high compared to the adjacent ones. Note that the straightedge and fret rocker must be used all over the width of the fretboard, on both edges, centerline and in between. When the frets are leveled, string the guitar and use the long straightedge to see if the string pull has made a gap around the 5th fret. If not, loosen the truss rod by 1/8 of a turn, repeat if necessary.

If you REALLY have to pull super glued frets out, heat them with a solder gun to break the glue bond. Pincers with the top bevel sanded flush are a nice tool.


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6 hours ago, David Ivy said:

Looks like I am going to have to put all the frets out sand the fretboard down a lot more then re-fret it.

Any helpful suggestions on how to get super glued frets out?

Any helpfull hents would be appreciated.


What is the problem you've got?

As @Bizman62 says, there aren't many fretboard or fret issues that can't be sorted in situ... 

If it's action height that's the issue on a set-neck, then again it is usually tweaks with the bridge or pickup height that can fix most problems.

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When removing the nut (which I glued a small piece of wood under the nut) I chipped away a piece of the fretboard. I need to remove frets and sand down the fretboard.

After looking at an SG that I Bought, the neck profile is smaller. and thinner. And the fretboard is much ,much thinner.




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Ah - OK

Individually, a thick fretboard is no problem and, if you have the piece that was stuck to the nut, that kind of chip usually can be invisibly glued back on.

If, though, the neck is simply too deep to play comfortably, then yes -  I can see why you might want to thin it down.  The options for thinning the neck itself are usually limited by how deep the truss-rod channel is (though that is worth checking because that would be MUCH easier than thinning the fretboard down). 

What is the total depth at around the 1st fret from the top of the fretboard to the spline of the neck?

Thinning a fretboard in situ more than a mm or so is no easy task.  Personally, I would remove the fretboard...but that depends what it's been glued on with.

In terms of the feeling of 'bulk' for a neck, it usually isn't so much the depth as the 'haunches'.  So a D profile, even for the same depth of neck, will feel much, much fatter than a C profile, and that itself will feel fatter than a soft V profile - and these profiles can be changed, without affecting the total depth of the neck, on a fully assembled and finished guitar.  In fact, I often tweak mine while they are fully strung up! 


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55 minutes ago, David Ivy said:

I will try to heat up frets one at a time and pull them out.

Sand down the fretboard and maybe change the neck profile slightly..

At this point this is all I can do to fix this problem. I thank and appreciate all the suggestions and help.

Thank you.

Well, we've all been in similar places...

Shout if we can help with anything

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That chip out on the fretboard is a bummer but if you've still got it, it will glue back on. You can sand at least a few mm off the thickness of that fretboard I reckon, that will reduce your neck thickness a bit too. I tend to only go to about 4.5mm - 5mm max fretboard depth nowerdays (in the middle), that way I can get a thinner neck profile without worry about carving through the truss rod channel. 

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