ScottR Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 2 hours ago, mistermikev said: thank you sir... yes, really comes alive when wet so... just have to get the burst done. working on it today. thanks for the support! Ooooooh a burst, that's just what it needs. I''ll bet it's barrels of fun with all that faux binding. At least as much fun as the dye job. I can't wait to see that too! SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted August 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 1 minute ago, ScottR said: Ooooooh a burst, that's just what it needs. I''ll bet it's barrels of fun with all that faux binding. At least as much fun as the dye job. I can't wait to see that too! SR yup... having fun w it today. just doing it with dye. unfortunately... the binding makes it a lot more challenging! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 Ooh, some scarily interesting times ahead! I already was wondering how you're going to make that -if I may say - dull washed blue look stunning. A burst, definitely! And natural binding, trying hard to prevent the burst bleeding... Just reminding you of how @Lumberjack does it by protecting the binding with a good layer of clearcoat. But of course you already knew that, didn't you? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 9 hours ago, mistermikev said: thank you sir... yes, really comes alive when wet so... just have to get the burst done. working on it today. thanks for the support! Can’t wait. It’s going to look splendid 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted August 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 4 hours ago, Bizman62 said: Ooh, some scarily interesting times ahead! I already was wondering how you're going to make that -if I may say - dull washed blue look stunning. A burst, definitely! And natural binding, trying hard to prevent the burst bleeding... Just reminding you of how @Lumberjack does it by protecting the binding with a good layer of clearcoat. But of course you already knew that, didn't you? well, the nat binding already has clear on it... so adding the burst will just be done by hand rubbing. I considered spraying because I think it's a lot easier to get that nice fade with an airbrush... but doing a second round of tape-off... doesn't sound like something I'd like to do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted August 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: Can’t wait. It’s going to look splendid thank you sir!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted August 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 this one I think is good to go... but I can't tell if the burst is done yet... still drying so... will see tonight in this pic the headstock doesn't even look like it has burst... not quite happy w that yet... but so hard to transition in such a small area... and make it match the rest... does match the logo well tho. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADFinlayson Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 Love that subtle blue burst, clearly a lot of time went into that stain job. Awesome. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 Gotta love that burst as well! Funny how the transition looks much better in the upper picture showing the body instead on the last one where it looks almost like a stripe. In real life I believe you can't barely see where the burst starts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted September 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 1 hour ago, ADFinlayson said: Love that subtle blue burst, clearly a lot of time went into that stain job. Awesome. thank you. yea, doing it rubbed... I had to build it slowly to prevent what biz is talking about below. 48 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: Gotta love that burst as well! Funny how the transition looks much better in the upper picture showing the body instead on the last one where it looks almost like a stripe. In real life I believe you can't barely see where the burst starts. after I had taken these photos I noticed the lower horn didn't have enough transition... drew some more color off with min spirits to correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 14 minutes ago, mistermikev said: after I had taken these photos I noticed the lower horn didn't have enough transition... drew some more color off with min spirits to correct. Well whaddaya know, sometimes it goes to show that a photo shows things less obvious to the bare eye! Hip hip hooray to George Eastman! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted September 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 8 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: Well whaddaya know, sometimes it goes to show that a photo shows things less obvious to the bare eye! Hip hip hooray to George Eastman! I was actually curious if anyone would notice it as well. def from about the f hole over to where it meets the neck pocket. but honestly did not see it well with naked eye. the flash actually accentuates it so... def happy accident. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 It was obvious, but we're too polite to mention... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted September 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2021 sort of hard to believe how different these are given they both used the sm dye mix. also hard to believe I used an entire quart of lacquer only doing 4 or so coats. Need to order more... anywho, minor update. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted September 13, 2021 Report Share Posted September 13, 2021 Have you put anything else on those other than the lacquer? They were baby blue like the jeans of my teen years, now one is grassy green and the other like juniper needles! Or is it just a different lighting? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted September 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2021 22 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: Have you put anything else on those other than the lacquer? They were baby blue like the jeans of my teen years, now one is grassy green and the other like juniper needles! Or is it just a different lighting? on both... did one light layer of tru oil then lacquer. tru oil contributed some yellow, nitro lacquer contributed even more. The light/flash is contributing in addition. The difference between the two is just down to the wood. the flamed maple was a very white wood, while the quilt was much more tan/pink. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted September 14, 2021 Report Share Posted September 14, 2021 How do I say this gently? Pretend I'm whispering maybe... I would never use Tru-Oil sandwiched in there the way you did. There's no reason to have it there, its not buying you anything and can 'retard' the dye from 'popping' like it could under straight lacquer. And can cause adhesion problems if not properly scratch-sanded or if not allowed to 100% cure before lacquer. If I were to ever do that, I'd be waiting two weeks dead-minimum between oil and lacquer application to allow the oil to 100% cure first. And I do mean 100%. Make that 110% fully cured with no possibility of it not being fully cured before lacquer (if it were mine). It's just not worth it, there's absolutely zero to be gained by using it in this type of application and several risks that aren't necessary. One of which is your dye doing weird shit on you because its reacting to an oil and not a lacquer, and there is usually a difference in reactions. PS, There's no yellowing due to 3-4 coats of lacquer, that the naked eye could ever see. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted September 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2021 5 hours ago, Drak said: How do I say this gently? Pretend I'm whispering maybe... I would never use Tru-Oil sandwiched in there the way you did. There's no reason to have it there, its not buying you anything and can 'retard' the dye from 'popping' like it could under straight lacquer. And can cause adhesion problems if not properly scratch-sanded or if not allowed to 100% cure before lacquer. If I were to ever do that, I'd be waiting two weeks dead-minimum between oil and lacquer application to allow the oil to 100% cure first. And I do mean 100%. Make that 110% fully cured with no possibility of it not being fully cured before lacquer (if it were mine). It's just not worth it, there's absolutely zero to be gained by using it in this type of application and several risks that aren't necessary. One of which is your dye doing weird shit on you because its reacting to an oil and not a lacquer, and there is usually a difference in reactions. PS, There's no yellowing due to 3-4 coats of lacquer, that the naked eye could ever see. thanks for the reply Drak. I do appreciate the advice, and with all due respect to your finishing prowess, and noting that I'm not above learning anything... I've used nitro lacquer over tru oil on literally (almost) every guitar i have built and have not had an issue with adhesion nor it drawing off any dye. I've also read of many others who have done the sm. The reason I use it... is IMO it pops the figure like nothing else I have seen. Note, that I apply tru oil and then whipe it off immediately. https://www.tdpri.com/threads/nitrocellulose-lacquer-over-tru-oil.411332/ https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=510735 https://www.talkbass.com/threads/nitro-lacquer-over-tru-oil.883106/ afa retard the dye... this dye had been drawn off so many times I don't think the tru oil was taking any more of it out. I literally whiped all the dye off on purpose using mineral spirits prior to any tru oil. I always do that because that top layer of dye just clouds the figure imo. I don't believe tru oil is really an oil in the traditional sense anyway... it's a lot more like a varnish and when applied light, and whiped off after, it drys within an hour or two. afa doing wierd stuff... well that is absolutely accurate in terms of adding some amber. no more so than nitro lacquer will ad tho. I had actually anticipated that. I knew tru oil would add a little bit of yellow to the mix, and that nitro would add some more, and am totally fine with that. I will take your dislike of my finish in stride, I'm pretty happy with it. Actually have used dye mixed in to tru oil inside the f holes. I had used dye mixed into tru oil on my sweet spot blue as the final finish. afa lacquer... my naked eye can see the yellowing in the cup so I would assume it adds some visible amber, but yes a small amount. mohawk instrument lacquer is quite amber, unlike watco I've used before. again, not a huge dif. Admittedly both of these colors don't really look all that dif than they did wetted with min spirits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted September 14, 2021 Report Share Posted September 14, 2021 4 hours ago, mistermikev said: I don't believe tru oil is really an oil in the traditional sense It's the traditional blend of boiled linseed oil, lacquer (varnish) and turpentine. The proportions may vary depending on brand. This one looks like the guy knows what he's talking about: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/tru-oil-recipe.1288244/#post-20637554 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted September 14, 2021 Report Share Posted September 14, 2021 4 hours ago, mistermikev said: afa lacquer... my naked eye can see the yellowing in the cup so I would assume it adds some visible amber, but yes a small amount. Think about liquid soap: In the bottle it has a deep colour but the foam is always white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted September 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2021 20 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: Think about liquid soap: In the bottle it has a deep colour but the foam is always white. I think pretty much all nitro is going to add a little amber, if not now, then later as it ages. If you look at any vintage fender neck... right out the gate they were amber w/o any dye... and as they age they are almost orange. The more like that vintage nitro you get... the more amber it's going to be. It's fairly common among the 'fender enthusiasts" to take mohawk and leave it sit in the sun in a clear bottle for months to get that "instant vintage" amber. Not exactly what I'm going for here... but I'm not even trying to avoid it either. On the original mockup I did for this guitar, the blue was based on pictures from the sellers site of the sonoran turquoise. The actual product was much more turquoise. My dye tests where all done on the flamed maple and once tru oil was applied they matched the actual turquoise pretty well. So for the record... was not trying to match my original mockup "light blue" as much as I was trying to match the turquoise inlay, and the color I ended up with on the flame maple is a good match. afa the quilt... this was just my prototype. I never did any tests of the color prior to dye because it just didn't matter for that build. I didn't think it would turn quite this green... but it's a happy accident (bob ross) as I am free to be as creative as I like on that one. Again, this is the wood NOT the dye/tru-oil/lacquer. Both guitars had the exact same treatment. If I really wanted it to match the flamed body I would have A) done some color tests on that wood and/or B ) sanded it down and re-dyed it... but I have to say I really like the color. Further, as it turns out, I have some lovely green abalone block inlay that will match it quite well and since there are no rules on that one... I'm taking the liberty to change it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted September 14, 2021 Report Share Posted September 14, 2021 I would never do it, but if you've got experience with it with repeated success, Carry On then! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted October 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 so... got what I think is the final coats of gloss on my stuff last night. now the long wait for final wetsand as I work on knobs, cavity covers, and pickup covers... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted October 7, 2021 Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 Super cool. Those are some large in-your-face f-holes as well! Some of the largest I think I've ever seen. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted October 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2021 6 minutes ago, Prostheta said: Super cool. Those are some large in-your-face f-holes as well! Some of the largest I think I've ever seen. wel... eh hem... it's not the size of your f hole... hehe thank you, the encouragement means a lot to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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