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tele for a cop...


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3 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Of course not. We write and interact sequentially however we also document. Great builds cast long shadows. Absolutely correct. 

you got a bit of a poet in you there "great builds cast long shadows".  I  like that.  saving that for later.  

on the flip side... I try not to observe the romans in other threads.  Probably fall short, but I always try to be polite.

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one of those little details... not entirely sure it's worth it alone but perhaps when combined with everything else it will have greater value... spent a lot of time on this!

same maple used for the fretboard and sm sonoran turquoise as the rest of the inlays... volume, mode and boost.

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8 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

Details... And even smaller details...

I wonder what your crime was! On TV it takes much less for bribing a cop...

hehe, well maybe someday I'll get pulled over for speeding and call in a favor - jk.  

Working with those tiny letters... make me feel like a giant!  Another entire skill set required just to not break those things while putting them into the gap.

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some more tiny details... took me 3 tries to get this... well... semi-right.  

any thoughts on securing it?  I was thinking just thin ca glue as that's the finish I want to go with... but perhaps gorilla glue?  I'm not sure what would stick well to the seymour bobins.  Pickup experts???

 

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On 10/11/2021 at 1:07 AM, mistermikev said:

one of those little details... not entirely sure it's worth it alone but perhaps when combined with everything else it will have greater value... spent a lot of time on this!

same maple used for the fretboard and sm sonoran turquoise as the rest of the inlays... volume, mode and boost.

IMG_4076.thumb.JPG.bf402edb7af87fe66dc684a1fac72ca1.JPG

I've never seen that done before.  If this site did 'Wow!' awards, I would award you one :D

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Whoa these knobs and that bobbin cover are awesome! Still loving all these details you bring to the build. So worth it. I'd try CA glue first- It won't be obvious if it doesn't go quite as planned and you need to try something else. Maybe score the surface of the bobbin first with an xacto? Gorilla glue I'd have to think there is no coming back from with all the foaming. High temp hot glue could also be good, and removable should the owner ever want to swap pickups. 

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3 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

I've never seen that done before.  If this site did 'Wow!' awards, I would award you one :D

well your kind feedback is worth more to me than anything else - thank you very much for the positive response!!

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20 minutes ago, Charlie H 72 said:

Whoa these knobs and that bobbin cover are awesome! Still loving all these details you bring to the build. So worth it. I'd try CA glue first- It won't be obvious if it doesn't go quite as planned and you need to try something else. Maybe score the surface of the bobbin first with an xacto? Gorilla glue I'd have to think there is no coming back from with all the foaming. High temp hot glue could also be good, and removable should the owner ever want to swap pickups. 

thank you Charlie.  very much appreciate the pos feedback.  the thing that attracts me to gorilla glue... is that it will expand and fill cracks and that might give it some 'grab'.  I'd rather it not be removable because there will be nothing else holding it on there... so really want it positively secured.  Last thing I want is it becoming a nuisance.  scoring is def a good idea and that is advice I think I will def employ.  I think bobbins are some sort of variation on fiberglass no?  I know they use epoxy there so that is another possibility.  

anywho, thanks again for the reply.

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I'm a bit late to understand that you actually wanted to get the wooden part to the plastic bobbin...

As has been said epoxy is a good choice and CA should also work.

And then there's ZAP/Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue which is designed to glue plastic to wood... It's available everywhere from Amazon to Walmart so it's not difficult to find. It's good for plastic bindings as well. And you can wipe the excess off with a damp towel when wet.

 

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55 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

Epoxy is likely as good a choice as it gets. Sanding the poles should be enough to key them.

thank you.  I need to find a good source for epoxy - if you have any recommendation - I'd love to hear it.

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16 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

I'm a bit late to understand that you actually wanted to get the wooden part to the plastic bobbin...

As has been said epoxy is a good choice and CA should also work.

And then there's ZAP/Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue which is designed to glue plastic to wood... It's available everywhere from Amazon to Walmart so it's not difficult to find. It's good for plastic bindings as well. And you can wipe the excess off with a damp towel when wet.

 

right on... not familiar with that zap but as I understand gorilla glue is very good at plastic to metal or wood/metal/plastic.  that said... I'm not sure the bobbins are really plastic so not entirely convinced that would be a good hold.  I don't know much about bobbins... but as I understand in the pickup world they often use ca glue to hold the bobbins in place for winding.  

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36 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

I'm not sure the bobbins are really plastic so not entirely convinced that would be a good hold.

For Tele pickups both the traditional flatwork and molded single piece plastic bobbins are available. The latter are much easier to use since the pole pieces will be inside insulating tubes - that enables even swapping pole pieces as you don't have to worry about damaging the coil when pushing a pole in. The flatwork of traditionally made pickups is vulcanized fibre i.e. heat treated compressed cellulose. It belongs to the plastic family but isn't plastic like Tupperware. Carving a smidgeon and burning it should reveal the material by smell. Even burned vulcanized fibre is dangerous emission free so it should smell like burning paper or cotton cloth. Burning plastic on the other hand has that dark oily toxic aroma...

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Gorilla Glue is just a brand, and not a very good one at that for the sort of thing we do. I don't rate their products at all beyond basic domestic DIY. ZAP epoxies are pretty good, but again they're a brand. I use the Z-Poxy 30 (PT-39) and have had excellent results, plus it's pretty forgiving. The 50:50 ratio makes it easier to mix than say, West System.

I put both bottles into a container of warm-hot water to reduce the viscosity of each component before mixing. Mix more than you think you need to, scrape the sides and be thorough. Cocktail sticks are great for dotting the stuff.

CA tends to leave crispy white burn marks from the fumes. Not the best if you end up having to clean it up, plus CA has a poor habit of fracturing whereas epoxies tend to retain a very slight plasticity. That helps with any shock the workpiece might encounter that might shear the dots off.

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6 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

Burning plastic on the other hand has that dark oily toxic aroma...

We've got a small hand shower in sauna, and the heat caused the screw thread holding the plastic sprinker disc to break. Having that fly into kiuas (sauna stove for non-Finnish readers) produced a lot of dark oily toxic aromas one didn't want in sauna....

Not sure how this helps. Maybe throw a pickup onto sauna stove stones to test it? Is that a valid methodology?

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Now please help a non-English speaker here: Are we discussing the best glue to stick that wooden plate on the bobbin or the best glue to stick the turquoise dots on the polepieces? Or/and maybe gluing the sides of the turquoise dots to the wooden plate? Which are apples and which are oranges and are there peaches involved?

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I think the error is mine entirely, not your language. The recon stone looks like it's inlaid into the wood....in which case I guess we're talking wood to the bobbin. Still epoxy is the best choice. I'm so skim-ready at times that I remember 20% of what I see and forget the important stuff 😉

Just thinking about clamping. I bet a few small magnets would do the trick!

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1 hour ago, Bizman62 said:

For Tele pickups both the traditional flatwork and molded single piece plastic bobbins are available. The latter are much easier to use since the pole pieces will be inside insulating tubes - that enables even swapping pole pieces as you don't have to worry about damaging the coil when pushing a pole in. The flatwork of traditionally made pickups is vulcanized fibre i.e. heat treated compressed cellulose. It belongs to the plastic family but isn't plastic like Tupperware. Carving a smidgeon and burning it should reveal the material by smell. Even burned vulcanized fibre is dangerous emission free so it should smell like burning paper or cotton cloth. Burning plastic on the other hand has that dark oily toxic aroma...

had no idea that vulcanized fibre was a type of cellulose... good to know.  

 

1 hour ago, Prostheta said:

Gorilla Glue is just a brand, and not a very good one at that for the sort of thing we do. I don't rate their products at all beyond basic domestic DIY. ZAP epoxies are pretty good, but again they're a brand. I use the Z-Poxy 30 (PT-39) and have had excellent results, plus it's pretty forgiving. The 50:50 ratio makes it easier to mix than say, West System.

I put both bottles into a container of warm-hot water to reduce the viscosity of each component before mixing. Mix more than you think you need to, scrape the sides and be thorough. Cocktail sticks are great for dotting the stuff.

CA tends to leave crispy white burn marks from the fumes. Not the best if you end up having to clean it up, plus CA has a poor habit of fracturing whereas epoxies tend to retain a very slight plasticity. That helps with any shock the workpiece might encounter that might shear the dots off.

I was under the impression that gorilla sort of popularized polyester glues so... when I say gorilla that's what I mean.  I am well aware that their wood glue sux but their poly glue works very well for the right application.  solid for 

 

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56 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

Now please help a non-English speaker here: Are we discussing the best glue to stick that wooden plate on the bobbin or the best glue to stick the turquoise dots on the polepieces? Or/and maybe gluing the sides of the turquoise dots to the wooden plate? Which are apples and which are oranges and are there peaches involved?

i've tried to post this reply about 90 times now... something with chrome maybe?

anyway, this is for bobbin to wood.  the turqoise i will secure via ca glue as I'm using that for finish too.

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34 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

I think the error is mine entirely, not your language. The recon stone looks like it's inlaid into the wood....in which case I guess we're talking wood to the bobbin. Still epoxy is the best choice. I'm so skim-ready at times that I remember 20% of what I see and forget the important stuff 😉

Just thinking about clamping. I bet a few small magnets would do the trick!

yes, recon is inlaid and will secure via ca glue there.  epoxy - I'm thinking more and more this may be the way to go.  I know it will hold just about anything and I have real concerns that this piece doesn't become a nuisance.  thanks for the recommendation on the zpoxy... 

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2 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Gorilla Glue is just a brand, and not a very good one at that for the sort of thing we do. I don't rate their products at all beyond basic domestic DIY. ZAP epoxies are pretty good, but again they're a brand. I use the Z-Poxy 30 (PT-39) and have had excellent results, plus it's pretty forgiving. The 50:50 ratio makes it easier to mix than say, West System.

I put both bottles into a container of warm-hot water to reduce the viscosity of each component before mixing. Mix more than you think you need to, scrape the sides and be thorough. Cocktail sticks are great for dotting the stuff.

CA tends to leave crispy white burn marks from the fumes. Not the best if you end up having to clean it up, plus CA has a poor habit of fracturing whereas epoxies tend to retain a very slight plasticity. That helps with any shock the workpiece might encounter that might shear the dots off.

double thanks... there is some good info here and endorsed by mikro as well so... taking it to the bank.

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